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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My starter started making a clicking noise. 2003 fxsts. I removed the starter and built it with a allballs cluthch. Per er back together and still clicks. While I had the starter off, I puit one of those fancy manual switches on the plunger. The bike will not start with the start switch, but it will if I engage the plunger rod or with a remote switch. I have tested the starter switch, the ignition switch, the circuit breaker, fueses and i get 12.5 v dc to starter when i hit the start button..........any idesa?
 

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in the service manuel there is a section on how to test the pullin and hold in coils and there is a contact rebuildkit if the coils are good
 

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harleydnut said:
My starter started making a clicking noise. 2003 fxsts. I removed the starter and built it with a allballs cluthch. Per er back together and still clicks. While I had the starter off, I puit one of those fancy manual switches on the plunger. The bike will not start with the start switch, but it will if I engage the plunger rod or with a remote switch. I have tested the starter switch, the ignition switch, the circuit breaker, fueses and i get 12.5 v dc to starter when i hit the start button..........any idesa?
If I understand this correctly, it will start when you use the plunger button on the starter and with a remote switch. Is the remote switch between the little spade terminal on the starter and the battery directly? If you apply 12 volts from the battery to the terminal on the starter does that start it? If it starts it isn't the starter solenoid. The next thing in line is the starter relay. I would check the terminals on the relay and make sure they are clean. If the relay is good, the starter switch on the handlebars would be the next, then the wires themselves and I think that is less likely.

It could also be something other than the starter circuit like the ignition switch but I would look at the starter circuit first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
So far, I have replaced the starter relay, crossed the circuit breaker, cut the wires going to the starter switch down by the tank and hot wired it to take the starter button out of the picture and unplugged the ignition switch and jumpered the plug to take the ignition out of the picture, still starter chatter...again, the the plunger and the remote switch will start the bike but the starter switch will not? The remote switch setup I made up connects from the starter terminal to the plug on the solenoid. I have also tried another starter and get the same results...
 

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Sounds like a voltage issue, not to say the battery is weak but that you are losing enough voltage through the start circuit to be weak by the time it reaches the solenoid. You should look for voltage drop through the circuit, caused by dirty connections, etc... Work with springer- on this dnut, he really does know what he is talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I forgot to mention I put a new 310 cca battery on too. This is a strange problem and was hoping someone out there has seen it...Thanks for all the input
 

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With electrical problems, you have to work through them one step at a time. Since you put a remote switch between the battery terminal on the starter and the terminal on the solenoid, and it started, that rules out the battery cables and the starter and the solenoid.

Next is the relay. The relay has a 12v feed to one side of the relay switch, when the bike is on. Then when you energize the relay using the starter button on the handlebar, the relay switch closes and applies 12v to the terminal on the solenoid. What we want to do is test the relay and the 12v from it to the solenoid. To do this, you need a meter set for 12 v or better scale. Place the meter between the terminal on the solenoid (red lead) and Ground on the battery (black lead). Then using the regular start button see what you get for a voltage reading, see if it jumps up and down as the starter clicks. Then do the same test but remove the wire from the solenoid this time. If the wire now goes to 12v, assuming you found it didn't in the previous step, plug the wire back in to the solenoid and then move to the relay. Find the wire that goes to the solenoid from the relay and test it at the relay. If it is the same, then check the 12v supply to the relay switch and see if it does it too. Essentially tracing back until you get to a solid 12v source, Whatever the last device is that has the bad 12v is the problem.

It is hard to type every test you would need to do to track down the issue. Start with what I have above and if you don't get anywhere with it, PM me and I will give you a phone number, it would be much easier to explain it that way.

Good luck and let me know.
 

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Give me a call at the Port shop ... 207-621-8089, I am there now if you want to call.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hugh Shout Out To Springer..he Is The Man

Just wanted to let everyone who reads this know that springer spent about an hour and a half on the phone with me, walked me through the entire starter system and my bike is fixed thanks to him....Guys like George (AKA Springer) make this forum so great...Thanks man and I'll catch ya on Laconia for that beer!
 

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and the problem was??? Just in case I have that issue sometime.
 

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davemhughes said:
and the problem was??? Just in case I have that issue sometime.
After ruling out the starter, solenoid, relay, handlebar switch and battery, I came to the conclusion he MUST have a bad ground connection. Funny thing was the ground was good enough to support the solenoid or the starter motor but not both at the same time. The bike is a 2003 springer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As springer mentioned, it was a ground issue. Take a hard lesson learned, just cause your battery cables look all nice and new, don't mean the connection is good..If you get the ole click click click when you hit the button, clean the friggin cable connections before you get to deep in troubleshooting....
 

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Bad connection on battery or where cable goes to ground on frame? Loose or corrsion?
 

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Bad connection to the frame. Not loose, no noticable corrosion. In fact he said it was perfectly clean, I told him to take it apart and clean it anyways.
 

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Did it still look clean when pulling cable off? If so little surprised. But I suppose this would lead to why it worked, but not both. But I haven't had a ground problem in long time. Knock on wood.
On old truck I ran a ground wire back to the back lights and add another ground to frame up front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yea it was strange. The connections looked perfect. I took both + and - cables off and cleaned them real good. I also added another ground (4 gauge) from the battery to one of the starter bolts. I'm waiting on a part to come in before I put the oil bag back on so I think it is taken care of. It turns over but I have not cranked it...I'll post a final once the bike is all back together...
 

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I'm wondering at this point if you haven't temporarily corrected an internal, (Inside the wire casing corrosion), problem? (By disturbing the wire and creating through continuity during connection cleaning?)

I've restored quite a few older cars and have found that the copper inside the wire covering is solid green with corrosion and the resistance from one end of a circuit to the other is off the scale. Have fought perceived ground issues, and what appeared to be low alternator output only to find that it was the copper wiring itself.

The fact that your connections appeared "clean" / no sign of corrosion, would make me wonder. At 2003, you wouldn't think so, (too new), but it's possible.

Just a thought.:dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well starting is not the problem anymore, but I'm eating pinion gears..2 so far..They last about a week. The second one took out the starter ring gear. I got the compufire 10:82 set so maybe that will handle the problem. I'm also changing the clutch basket and comp gear to get 337 gear ration...I'm thinking kick back is causing the problem, but not sure at this point.......
 
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