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Discussion Starter #1

Just made it in from work.
My Drive Belt has stripped itself in numerous places (29K). I knew it had two teeth missing a while back but kept on driving regardless.
I haven't looked at the FM yet.
Will I need any 'special' tools to change this?
I assume the Primary casing has to come off to access the small sprocket from the Tranny?
Can I replace the 'Belt' now, and the Sprockets later when finances allow?
Is 29K reasonable for a belt to FUBAR?
TIA,
HH.
 

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EvilMonger
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Do your sprockets need replacing ?????? I think 29K is low mileage for breakage but it certainly is not a warrantee issue. You need at least a clutch hub puller and a big enough socket for the compensator sprocket up front. I have more "HARD" miles than that on my road glide (wheelies, burnouts ) with no wear or cracks. Was it properly adjusted and cleaned ????

Good luck, you haven't had much lately.........flat/brakes/belt :(
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thealien said:
Do your sprockets need replacing ?
Well, if I remember rightly (maybe I'm wrong) according to the 'Owners' Manual when theres no Chrome plate on the sprogs it needs replacing.
What Chrome!!! LOL... does this wear normally?:eek:

You need at least a clutch hub puller and a big enough socket for the compensator sprocket up front.
Is it possible to get the Clutch hub Mainshaft Nut off without an impact Wrench?


Was it properly adjusted and cleaned ????
Adjusted, yes. Clean? In this CUNTry....LOL

What about a Primary Drive locking lump of plastic? Can I improvise?
 

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EvilMonger
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post sprocket picture ??????

Impacts easier but you should be able to to use hand tools, might even try hand tools first ???

and improvise is fine on the "thingy"
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thealien said:
post sprocket picture ?
Dark here at the minute. I'll post a pic 1st thing in the morning.
What a start to my Sat night!!!! Fu(kfu(kandfuckit! :mad:
 

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EvilMonger
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Harleyhog, does it look okay to you ?? Just my opinion also, I would replace every seal on the backside of the inner primary and check the transmision seal, while I'm in there. Do you have anywhere indoors you can do the work ?? I've done it in a driveway before and it's not fun !! Make sure your stator bolts are all still tight also, hate to have to do all that work again in a couple of months.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm gonna study the FM tonight and
see what tools
a. I have.
b. I'd need to purchase.(i.e. a puller for the clutch and a proper Torque wrench.)
Then decide if it'd be better in a Stealer. :(
 

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I knew it had two teeth missing a while back but kept on driving regardless.

Your honor, we find the defendant guilty.

If you had changed it then it would need just the belt, now it's anyones guess. If you need to change the sprocket you need to make a special deep socket with a guide. Make sure it isn't loose anyway.

All you need is the big sockets and a torque wrench. The clutch hub is splined and pulls off by hand. The best way to lock the sprockets is with a piece of flat steel, the plastic wedges can and will break the primary housing unless you pay attention exactly where you place it and the proper position changes depending on what exactly you are taking off or putting on. It is a easy job but time consuming.
 

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EvilMonger
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Harleyhog, sorry about the clutch hub info, haven't broke a belt since 90-91. Hippo, thanks for setting things straight.....good luck HH
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thank you for your reply Hippo
HIPPO said:
The clutch hub is splined and pulls off by hand.
Will I be able to get the Clutch Mainshaft Nut off without an air Impact Wrench though?

The best way to lock the sprockets is with a piece of flat steel,
Would you place this piece of steel at the same place as the plastic locking tool?
Is there a danger this might break some teeth on the Clutch Basket or Compensating Sprocket?
 

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since U didn't say what model you have, be prepared to remove the swingarm.

pulleys should be good.

29k miles and it broke? do you hammer that bike like its a crotch rocket or is it just bad luck?

I put a belt on Sybil at 94k miles because the secondary drive pulley splines wallowed out, belt was still good.

need a 1 - 1/2 and 1-3/16 socket for compensator and clutch nuts. clutch hub is L.H threads.
 

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Will I be able to get the Clutch Mainshaft Nut off without an air Impact Wrench though?
Sure, it's not on there very tight but it is left handed thread. 70 or 80 ft/lb.

The compensator nut is the one that is tight 150 to 165 ft/lb and if you are as little as you claim you might need a really long breaker bar. It generally isn't a problem to use an air impact to loosen it. People have a concern knocking the magnets loose on the rotor but if they come loose they would eventually failed anyway. With the impact you lessen the chance of throwing the sprocketshaft out of alignment and you can hold the thing with your hands, no lockbar needed. You still need the bar to put it back on as here you need to use a torque wrench but the effort is much less as you don't have to break the red loctite.


If not could you please 'paint' on this image indicating where to place it.
Too much work and it wouldnt be clear.
Picture in your mind taking the compensator nut off for example. Draw a mental line thru the center of the compensator and the center of the clutch basket. If you put the bar in the teeth of the compensator sprocket and the chain teeth on the clutchbasket in such a way that the bar crosses the imaginary centerline it should be obvious that the teeth will try to move in opposite directions attempting to compress the bar.
Just round the edges of the bar a little and the teeth will be fine. It does give you much more rigid locking then the plastic piece and makes things a lot easier and more accurate.
 

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One reason people have trouble with the compensator nut is that it is very shallow. Sockets usually have rounded edges at their mouth and you get very marginal engagement between socket and nut as it tends to slip off.
Put the socket in a lathe, mill or whatever and machine the mouth to where it has a sharp 90 degree flat edge. This gives much better engagement and keeps chit from slipping apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
HIPPO said:
Draw a mental line thru the center of the compensator and the center of the clutch basket. If you put the bar in the teeth of the compensator sprocket and the chain teeth on the clutchbasket in such a way that the bar crosses the imaginary centerline it should be obvious that the teeth will try to move in opposite directions attempting to compress the bar.
Got ya! ;)
Thanks Hippo!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hippo, do you know of hand the apprx. dimensions for the piece of steel to lock it all up?

I've got the belt.
Inner primary to Crank O ring.
5 new Inner Bolt locking Tabs.
Prim. Cover Gasket.
Oil.
Clutch Nut is 1 3/16"= 30mm (Metric over here)
Got one 30mm Deep socket.
Compensator nut is 1 1/2"= 38mm
Got one 38mm impact socket.
Breaker Bar.
Torque Wrench.
Sorting out the locking bar asap.
Red Loctite.
Normal thread locker.
The rest of the stuff I need I've got.
Will I be able to get away with the JackShaft oil seal and
the mainshaft oil seal IF they're not damaged during dis/reassembly?
The 'Stealers' machanics aren't in today. no one knew what I
was talking about when I asked for Black RTV silicone, ring back tomorrow. Is there a 'Generic' alternative for this?
O Mummy, let me back in!!! :eek:
 

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You got the bar, but it does engage on the chain teeth on the basket, behind the ring gear part.

As wide as possible where it just fits, somewhere around 1 1/2" and 1/4" thick. Just buy a couple of feet and measure the distance for best engagement and cut it with a handsaw. Stiffer is better. :D

I would replace all the seals, not worth it to reuse the old ones with any miles on the bike, make sure the jackshaft has no burrs on it.

I like to use Loctite primer with the Loctite, it makes it much more effective. Clean the threads well before reassembly and get all the oil off them with brake cleaner or something.

What's the silicone for? Hate people that use that $hit.

If you have to use silicone to mouse something use ThreeBond. (1204?)
 

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If you feel you need black RTV the best is the GM stuff, should be able to get it at any dealer. Loctite 598 Ultra Black.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
HIPPO said:
What's the silicone for?
Just following instructions as per FM. (see Photo)
Then I go and see this in a 2001 service bulletin

June,2001
TT#54

Engine Case Damage
Inspections performed on engines and engine cases returned under warranty have revealed a practice that can be detrimental to proper engine operation and engine life. There has been silicone sealant found in the holes that are used to attach the inner primary to the engine case.
This practice can cause the engine case to become broken when the bolts are installed.
Damage can also be caused by installing an incorrect length bolt in these locations.
DO NOT use silicone in these locations. Sealant that is present was not applied to bolt threads.
There is a very small amount applied to the mounting boss around each hole during initial assembly at York.

To silicone or not??????? :confused:
 

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Do whatever you feel comfortable with. I think the Loctite seals just as well, but I'm not the one putting the bike together.
The ThreeBond is what I use to seal cases and even instead of base gaskets sometimes and would be what I would use in any application that normally would require tiny amounts of silicone, but I'm the sort that follows the beat of my own drummer. For a first time job you might be better off following the book, but they are telling you the same thing I am, people put this **** everywhere and it isn't just hard to clean off, if you don't remove all traces of it you can break things and it has a habit to break loose and plug stuff up.
 
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