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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I have drawn up a method to stop the compensating nut coming loose on your bike.

The procedure is an industry practice used to "stake" the nut on rotating equipment when certain vibrations that are present at particular rpms cause everything to loosen up.

Similar idea to safety wiring nuts on drag bikes.


All the best, Ozzie
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
csoday said:
I would think the one through the nut would be a bitch to remove.
Hey there Chuck, how are you mate.........I might be heading up to Iraq in January.......northern area project.

Generally the nut is remove as normal shearing the pin.............later the pin is knock out of the nut..................if the comp sprocket cover has been drilled right through then you just use a home made drift out of a nail and tap the left over dowel pin out also.

If the cover is not drilled right through then you have to drill out the left over dowel.

I dont know the gap between the sprocket nut face of the primary cover, but enough of the dowel pin can be left there to grab hold of and pull out with plyers.

All the best, Ozzie..............stay safe Chuck
 

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What if instead of the dowel you drilled and tapped the hole and inserted a small bolt with red loctite. If clearance is a problem it could be countersunk and you could use a flat head bolt :hmmm:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
pa-glazier said:
What if instead of the dowel you drilled and tapped the hole and inserted a small bolt with red loctite. If clearance is a problem it could be countersunk and you could use a flat head bolt :hmmm:
Good idea too, just a tad more work..................possibly requires you to remove bolt to tap the base hole..............pin staking will not com loose ever and the nut itself would not cause a sheer moment on the dowel pin...............not trying to take anything away from your idea as I like it too........just need to check what size taper head screw to install and if it will weaken either nut or sprocket cover

All the best, Ozzie
 

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I replaced my shifter shaft seal the other day which required removal of the inner primary. I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar and a 2 ft pipe for extra leverage to break the comp nut loose while just about breaking my own nuts.

I think the key here is plenty of threadlocker. But I could be wrong.

What about that EMC comp nut lock? They already have a solution. Although it is pretty pricey.
 

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Personally, I think if they are installed properly, there should be no problem. I also think it should be a maint item to undo, redo about every 50,000 miles. Never had a problem in 40 years doing it this way.

Super high torque engines should be done more often.
 

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Ed Y said:
Personally, I think if they are installed properly, there should be no problem. I also think it should be a maint item to undo, redo about every 50,000 miles. Never had a problem in 40 years doing it this way.

Super high torque engines should be done more often.
Have you adopted Harley's new torque spec of 75 ft lbs then turning an additional 45 - 50 degrees? Or are you satisfied with the previous method of 165 ft lbs?
 

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Timbo,

That new spec was for 03 and later models. I've never had the occasion to mess with that area on an 03 or later bike but I would use that method if I did. On 02 and older bikes I still use the old method.

I see a lot of people who try to follow the procedure in the manual but don't spend any time in cleaning the parts where the red loctite is to be applied. If it's not clean and dry, you're wasting your time. JMHO
 
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