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Discussion Starter #1
Setting the rear sprocket to trans sprocket Alignment is a relatively EZ task.
Make or buy a tool and viola do it.
Shazam!
The long story here being I am a bit of CD problem person.
After replacing all the sprockets, belt etc I decided to double-check everything.
Well, so far I have a discrepancy.
Using a tool to Sq them up is ok.
EZ even.
I have my inner primary off, so I got out my machine edge and slid it between the frame and laid it on the two sprockets-
(The rear and the trans sprockets.)
It says the rear is pointing to the rightabout 3/16th just using the precision tool I made.
So
I pulled the trans cover and made a bigger tool out of 1l2 inch round stock with pointers.
Inserting it into the main shaft and rear axle both sides measures not sq, if i use the edge reference on sprockets.
so the answer is the same.
It would seem if the distance was exactly the same from center to center then the edge tool would touch across the sprockets.
Actually, it would have to, yet does not.
I know a lot of people do not go to this much effort,,, but now i have confused myself.
I have no idea at this late hour how this can even happen?
 

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Damn... if I were to replace the belt on the RK {135K miles} It would be simply install all the pieces, spin the rear wheel and adjust the rear axle as needed. Sort of correct assembly, adjust axle alignment as needed to have belt centered {spin the wheel forward and backwards}, tension properly and torque axle to spec. The goal is to have belt stay on the sprockets.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
LOL
That's what I should be doing...But now I have a puzzle
I have had this thing about ten years, travel HEAVY and two up .
Every five I replace all the wheel Alignment/swing arm components and do compulsive wheel Alignment to the closest nano second I can achieve .
Never have I checked the sprockets with the straight edge.
Perhaps the brain trust here will have an answer?
i hope so.
This time I am using the newer style components in the swingarm.
Plus added grease zerks
 

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I am not even close to this league, but whenever I am doing something, I always check it before I touch anything. Even as simple as changing the oil, I want to know the level before I drain it. I want to know where things stood before I loosened the first fastener...
 

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Damn... if I were to replace the belt on the RK {135K miles} It would be simply install all the pieces, spin the rear wheel and adjust the rear axle as needed. Sort of correct assembly, adjust axle alignment as needed to have belt centered {spin the wheel forward and backwards}, tension properly and torque axle to spec. The goal is to have belt stay on the sprockets.
Exactly what I do. I'm not looking for extra work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok for inquiring minds---
The last place I looked should have been the first place.!
Live and learn.
The outside trim ring or belt guard on the rear sprocket is not installed purrfect.
It has the runout that has been the culprit of the demise of my brain!
It is a brand new sprocket, from a dealer.
Not china crap.
Unless they had it made there.
I can sleep better tonight not chasing the 3/16th difference!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I forgot,-
The other reason for me to be fussy is this new Aluminum sprocket.
everything needs to be as Sq as possible to get the most wear out of it.
It is the constant war of weight loss versus longevity.
1.5 lb oz for the Al sprocket
and 5 lbs for the stock one!
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I own a business....Don't need a job as I have plenty to do.
Obviously, you dont?
To sit around and make a retort about what you will never understand somehow makes you feel superior ?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My compulsive disorder with some things.......
I thought you were being a knocker for no reason.
Now,.. I have to check the total runout of the brand new rear pulley.
i will post a pic of the tool I made to get the centers dead on using the transmission Main shaft to the rear sprocket.
If that is correct and the middle one is not, then there is a problem.
The Harley way of doing it is only as close as horseshoes and hand grenades..
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Harley centering tool for the main shaft, for rear axle- centering rear axle.
This is the only way to do this if you want results near purrfect.
Made out of 1/2 in stock with compression fittings.
You have to drill all the way through the brass fittings to get the round bar through.
Pretty ez.
The points can be made on your grinding wheel with the short pieces in your drill.
They will come out near purrfect held at about 45Deg to the grinding wheel.
 

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So, will the lighter drive gear make the bike accelerate/ deccelerate noticeable quicker than the steel drive gear? Or is it just to take weight off the mainshaft to help save bearings and seals?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
A lighter sprocket by itself will not do much. It is the some of all parts involved.
Anything lighter will help.
Yes, the engine will spin up quicker!
Anything lighter in the unsprung dept is a definite help too! (wheels tires etc)
When I deleted the chain and installed a belt drive, i lost a total of 30 lbs of spinning weight!
That was a chunk.
A wise man told me "taking of the chunks is Ez, but there are only a few to be found.
Take care of the ounces and the pounds will take care of themselves."
I don't think I have a bad problem yet just cause I cut off the extra length of bolts, do you?
LOL
Add lightness for speed and or performance!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The big problem with aligning the sprockets the Official "Harley way" is this-
There is not much depth to get a real pointer centered in the holes of the axel and swingarm pivot bolt.
The shallowness of them will not allow it, and it is almost impossible to see the in the cave where the awing arm pivot lives.
It is just blind faith!
To further this point-
I can use my tool for measuring the swing arm to the axle and it will show no movement at all if I turn the adjusters a couple of flats.
However, in using the larger tool with large centering points it will reveal even one flat turn on the adjusters.
Now on to the rest of the alinement procedures
 

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As far as the rear wheel alignment with the swing-arm, I’ve been doing the ‘Harley way’ since I first started making those adjustments by myself. You can only do so much with what we have, but I have managed to get good life from my FXR rear tires throughout my ownership of the bike, which is 30 years in September, although I haven’t been on it in a long while...🤔
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I am not here to say you are doing it wrong, as it is prescribed in their manual...
All I am saying is ...it can be done with a lot more accuracy.
All it is doing is aligning up the two pullies.
Whatever inaccuracy is there will be fixed with the doing the rest of the wheel alignment.
 

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I know you’re not saying that. Aligning to the swing arm may be correct, but I have never checked the swing arm to front axle.
Bigger fish to fry right now with the FXR! I gots to get it running first. It got away from me again!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No, Not to the front axle.
Xman M.S. to the rear axle, rather than using the swingarm pivot.
 
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