V-Twin Forum banner

sportster 1200s wiring

890 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  rootintootin
im building a chop from a 1200s, duel plug heads , now looking at the wiring sooo much more than a older sporty, it has a carb but also a map sensor on the carb, a data link and a tsm .space is tight for wiring , im useing a push starter on the motor to loose the relay , can i loose the data link, and the tsm . could i use old style flasher relays instead, would be nice to loose the map to if its possable headlight is on a 3 postion switch in the headlight its self, no original hand controls toggle for indicators , push button for horn . not much out there on the 1200s
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
What year is the donor bike and what are you using for an ignition? If you are (or can) dump the stock ignition for some sort of aftermarket ignition, that will decide what all you have to keep from the original equipment.

A TSM doesn't screw the rest of the bike like a TSSM does. Mine has been in the box of spare parts with the turn signals for close to 15 years. The only problem might be with one of the newer ones that incorporates the bank angle sensor into the TSM. You might have to work around that.

By push starter, do you mean some willing individual that will follow you around and push you when there isn't a handy hill nearby? Besides, I always thought a Sporty, especially a chopper, would be light enough to bump start by yourself with just a short push.

Or do you mean one of those solenoid end cap buttons? I have one of those on my bike. The only problem I have with it is it seems a little weak retracting the jackshaft and pinion gear after starting the motor. It only uses the spring inside the solenoid for retraction, not the windings in the solenoid. You know when you start the motor and release the starter button, the current reverses flow through the windings and uses the battery to pull the pinion gear back out of engagement with the ring gear.
See less See more
What year is the donor bike and what are you using for an ignition? If you are (or can) dump the stock ignition for some sort of aftermarket ignition, that will decide what all you have to keep from the original equipment.

A TSM doesn't screw the rest of the bike like a TSSM does. Mine has been in the box of spare parts with the turn signals for close to 15 years. The only problem might be with one of the newer ones that incorporates the bank angle sensor into the TSM. You might have to work around that.

By push starter, do you mean some willing individual that will follow you around and push you when there isn't a handy hill nearby? Besides, I always thought a Sporty, especially a chopper, would be light enough to bump start by yourself with just a short push.

Or do you mean one of those solenoid end cap buttons? I have one of those on my bike. The only problem I have with it is it seems a little weak retracting the jackshaft and pinion gear after starting the motor. It only uses the spring inside the solenoid for retraction, not the windings in the solenoid. You know when you start the motor and release the starter button, the current reverses flow through the windings and uses the battery to pull the pinion gear back out of engagement with the ring gear.
lol, yes a solenoid end cap, bike is a 02 1200s stock gnition unit with the stock contol module with a black plug and a grey plug. not sure why it has a map on it and not a voes, my fxr was soo much easier to wire ...
Looking at the wiring harness for that bike, the bank angle sensor is separate from the TSM. One down.

And, even though it uses an ECM, it uses a rotor and pickup in the nosecone. It might take some doing, but you could probably replace the ECM and all its related parts with something like a Zipper's Thunderbolt Nosecone ignition. That would take you back to V.O.E.S. After all, it is a chopper. No need for data link, TSM, bank angle sensor, MAP sensor. Don't even need a flasher if you don't have turn signals.

I don't know what's the deal with the dual plug heads. That isn't addressed on their web page. You would have to do more research.

There are probably other names out there. Calls for more looking. I just don't have any dog in this fight.

I've seen other ignitions of this type dirt cheap on online auction. Less than $100. They don't have nameplates or logos on them. More than likely knock-offs from you-know-where.
Dual plugs were part of a sport package on 1200S sportsters, in the early 2000's,
It seemed to me, to be an attempt to provide an illusion of a performance engine..
Forks on the S models.. are adjustable and better than stock 1200 forks.

What you want, can be done.. using a voes switch, tap the map sensor port and use it for the voes port..
The existing ignition can be used as a stand alone system. For the chop you are building..
Speedo and tach can be wired to function properly as well without the ecm..
Is is really surprisingly simple to do so.
cheers lads will keep playing , 4plugs in a vtwin great idea pmsl, most of the stand alone ignitions ive found so far say (except 1200s)
I don't know how much of this you are willing to read.

Rigid_EVO Sportster Sport 1200S '98-'03 Ignition Replacement [Archive] - The Sportster and Buell Motorcycle Forum - The XLFORUM®

Those guys are like the energizer bunny, They just go on, and on, and on.....But in a good way!
The only problem I have with it is it seems a little weak retracting the jackshaft and pinion gear after starting the motor. It only uses the spring inside the solenoid for retraction, not the windings in the solenoid. You know when you start the motor and release the starter button, the current reverses flow through the windings and uses the battery to pull the pinion gear back out of engagement with the ring gear.
When you release the starter button, the current in the pull in coil and the hold in coil run in opposite directions, cancelling each other out, so the only force retracting the solenoid shaft is the spring.

Here is an excellent description of how a reduction gear type starter works:

Starter
Harley's explanation shorts out the pull-in windings after the main contacts of the solenoid plunger close. Then that current flows through those contacts to the armature to run the starter motor.

Releasing the starter button takes the current from the hold-in windings, which have been doing their thing all along, back through the solenoid main contacts. It then goes back through the pull-in windings but in the opposite direction, pulling to the right instead of to the left. That breaks loose the main contacts of the solenoid plunger. Once that contact is broken, there is no more pull. Left or right. Then the return spring takes the plunger to its original position, which allows the pinion gear to disengage.

It doesn't pull the pinion gear back because there isn't a mechanical connection there. I was all eat-up about that. It just breaks that connection.

When you take the starter button and relay out of the loop, there's no pull-in or hold-in effect. And you don't get that electrical assist for Solenoid return. It's just you and the spring.
See less See more
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top