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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the process of tearing my inner fairing out to paint the inner fairing. I'm having difficulty removing the ignition knob. I've read the instructions in the manual atleast 10 times and tried the technique atleast as many times...unsuccessfully:huh:

I asked my dealers service manager if I could get a demonstration...instead he just told me in very crude terms how to do it...but it did sound different than I've tried.

I've been turning the knob to the accessory position, depressing the button on the bottom of the switch, then while pushing down on the key and knob, turning counter-clockwise 60* and trying to lift up....NO GO:duh?:

The service guy said to start with the knob in the middle position, put the key in the knob and while pressing down on the key, turn knob clockwise to the accessory position. I haven't gotten a chance to try his method; but it sounds wrong based on my memory of the instructions in the service manual.

I NEED to get this off so I can start paint prep. So if you can, provide pics...if not please just explain it in detail like you would an idiot:whistle:

Thanks,
Clay
 

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ign removal

Hello
well i scanned my manual. it is attached as a PDF file

best advice i can give you is to buy a manual. saves time and $$$ and in the winter we cant ride anyway so i read a chapter a week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well...atleast we verified that the dealerships service manager was wrong.:whistle: ...it clearly says turn counter-clockwise from the accessory position...but I still don't know what I've been doing wrong.
 

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Do as the instrustions say and when turning counter clock wise and someone holding up on the pin underneath the switch, turn the nob. Then turn a full 180 degrees to the right or clockwise pull up and it should pull out. It worked for me and and i read the manual 20 times and a hour of being P------ and looking for the cut off tool.
 

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I have your answer

When I first removed the lock mechanism to replace the light bulb in the speaker switch I had the same problem you are having. I read the directions several times and no luck.
It turns out the directions are not very clear on this issue.
Ill keep it real simple. Follow the directions as you were till you reach the step where it says to hold tab on bottom of lock up and turn the mechanism.
IT IS NOT THE MECHANISM YOU TURN, INSTEAD TURN THE KEY ITSELF IN THE DIRECTION TOLD (THINK IT IS COUNTERCLOCKWISE) TILL IT STOPS.
The key will turn to a position that is not for normal operation and will not be removable from the lock.
Now go back to the directions on removing the lock and sit back and shake your head as to why the manual did not clearly state the procedure.
Dan
 

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alllrighty then

71baldboy said:
:huh: I think Seahag said he's read the instructions in his manual at least 10 times.

hehe 430 am responding to a question ah well
:sofa:
 

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Sorry about the delay on the photos Seahag. Hopefully I can get them up tonight. I try to do wayyyy too many different things sometimes. But my main objective is to stay off the wifes shitt list.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
timbo said:
Sorry about the delay on the photos Seahag. Hopefully I can get them up tonight. I try to do wayyyy too many different things sometimes. But my main objective is to stay off the wifes shitt list.:D
Not a big deal Timbo. I won't be visiting my bike (at my mother in laws) till Sunday; so I have time to gather as much information as possible. There is another fellow with the same bike and the exact same problem as me from another forum...so I will be sharing my hopefull success in a detailed photographic and written narative at atleast two sites.

Thanks,

Clay
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
dcman27 said:
When I first removed the lock mechanism to replace the light bulb in the speaker switch I had the same problem you are having. I read the directions several times and no luck.
It turns out the directions are not very clear on this issue.
Ill keep it real simple. Follow the directions as you were till you reach the step where it says to hold tab on bottom of lock up and turn the mechanism.
IT IS NOT THE MECHANISM YOU TURN, INSTEAD TURN THE KEY ITSELF IN THE DIRECTION TOLD (THINK IT IS COUNTERCLOCKWISE) TILL IT STOPS.
The key will turn to a position that is not for normal operation and will not be removable from the lock.
Now go back to the directions on removing the lock and sit back and shake your head as to why the manual did not clearly state the procedure.
Dan

Thanks DCman. That is the first new twist I've heard on this. So does the ignition knob stay pointed at the accessory position and JUST the key turns counter clockwise?

That is my one beef with the factory service manual....they could have included a few more pictures and diagrams...cuz as in the picture posted in this thread, they don't show the key or its position in the lock above; which would have been very helpful.
 

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Seahag said:
Thanks DCman. That is the first new twist I've heard on this. So does the ignition knob stay pointed at the accessory position and JUST the key turns counter clockwise?
Yes that is exactly it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
timbo said:
Yes that is exactly it.
So does the power stay on if the switch is left in that position after the knob is removed....its sounding like I should disconnect the battery first.
 

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Seahag said:
So does the power stay on if the switch is left in that position after the knob is removed....its sounding like I should disconnect the battery first.
Yes, disconnect the battery first. You really should do that anyway if your pulling the inner fairing just to be safe.

Give me a little more time for a pic. I had a late meeting last night and didn't get in the door till 9:30p.
 

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seahag,
just a quick tip, take a digital camera with you and take lots of pictures before disconecting and removing harnesess, radio, guages ect. It makes life a lot easier going back together after you get the inner back. more so if inlaws have beer fridge in the garage. good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
skunkape said:
seahag,
just a quick tip, take a digital camera with you and take lots of pictures before disconecting and removing harnesess, radio, guages ect. It makes life a lot easier going back together after you get the inner back. more so if inlaws have beer fridge in the garage. good luck.
Yep...lotsa beer in the garage fridge:beer:

And thanks for the tip....but I've got it covered. Not only did I take digital photos, I broke out the trusty masking tape and sharpie to lable everything....see

Heres a pic of the new BOSS stereo with Mp3 player and (ESP) electronic skip protection (45 seconds in regular CD mode and 100 seconds in Mp3)...the orange glow lighting is going to look much better with the stock instrument lighting, than my old stereos blue-white lighting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I just want to thank everyone for their help on this. I tried the method you guys suggested and it came off like butter. If the HD service manual was written more from a novice's perspective, it would read like this:

To remove your switch knob:
1. turn the ignition switch to accessory.
2. depress release button on bottom.
3. turn your key (yes...the thing that releases your gas cap) counter-clockwise, while leaving the switch itself in the accessory position.
NOTE: because your switch is left in the on position, you better disconnect the battery.
4. Lift knob and remove.

P.S. I'm going to try a slightly different look than what Timbo did. I've modified a pic of Timbo's fairing to represent kinda what I have in mind (microsoft paint shop kinda sucks...so its not a great pic; but you'll get the idea).
 

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Good scheme their Seahag. Are you bringing it to a local body shop. I had asked my local bodyshop to do it with a simple two tone and the price really scared me. I will end up going with a H-D one sooner or later. Keep us posted!!
 

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Looks like that is gonna turn out real nice. I snapped a pic Saturday morning of my hand turning back the key and pushing the button. I was going to put it up Sat night, but the wife took the camera to a baby shower Sat afternoon and left it there. Oh well, glad you got it figured out. It's kind of tricky to do.

How long before you expect to have the fairing painted and remounted?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
TXCHOP said:
Good scheme their Seahag. Are you bringing it to a local body shop. I had asked my local bodyshop to do it with a simple two tone and the price really scared me. I will end up going with a H-D one sooner or later. Keep us posted!!
I'm going to be painting it myself. Using the krylon fusion gloss black as my base coat...which is supposed to bond with plastics.

I've been getting tips from a lot of professional sources on how to make it come out nice. I've seen some good work done with a spray can before; and it will keep the costs down.

Timbo- thanks for the thought...but it turned out to be a piece of cake once I understood what I was doing wrong. As complicated as it may be, when done right, its twice as complicated the way I was trying to do it wrong :bleh:

I'm only visiting the bike one day per week, and I plan to let each color cure for a week in between visits, so It will be a month probably before I reassemble.
 
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