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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took the fxr out yesterday and got some wicked tank slap when I took my hands off the bars to check how she tracked.

I instantly thought it was the neck bearing for some reason so I tightened the bolt down about a 1/4 turn and marked it. I also checked torque on the front swing arm and the tire looked good.

I then checked the front wheel since I had it jacked up and noticed when the bars are turned all the way to the right and I grab top and bottom of the rim I can get the slightest play/movement. Like if you where checking wheel bearings on a car. The play is slight enough you can’t realy see it but you can feel and hear it move.

Is this normal or did the bearing go out or something else maybe?
 

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The max play on that front wheel bearing is like .017 inch. Which is pretty loose. Early style set up was a select fit sleeve. Three sizes fit all. So some were pretty loose. And the sleeves were so soft it was easy to collapse them, so its not uncommon to see end plays out past .020 inch.

The fix is the late style sleeve with a master shim along with select fit shims as needed. .002-.005 is what people try to get. That's end play on the axle with the bearings torqued.

With that said, tank slap on a narrow glide is usually tire or wheel related. I've seen the neck bearing sloppy loose and they rode fine. Just sounded like hell when you hit a bump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Only thing I’ve done somewhat recently is put a flush mount axel on a few months back but rode it after without slap. I’m pretty sure my play is less than .17 but I don’t think I even checked before

The tire is about due I’d say but looked fine. Only got the slap on decel with no hands on the bars. Couldn’t get it when riding normal but onnce you get hard tank slap it’s a kick in the gut of your confidence
 

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Only thing I’ve done somewhat recently is put a flush mount axel on a few months back but rode it after without slap. I’m pretty sure my play is less than .17 but I don’t think I even checked before

The tire is about due I’d say but looked fine. Only got the slap on decel with no hands on the bars. Couldn’t get it when riding normal but onnce you get hard tank slap it’s a kick in the gut of your confidence
I hope its less than .170 That would be about to fall off.

How a tire looks just speaks to how it looks. A tire that has a core separation can look fine.
 

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"And the sleeves were so soft it was easy to collapse them, so its not uncommon to see end plays out past .020 inch."
That would explain {some of} the troubles with mechanics using the "arm strong" method vs "factory torque spec".
Having been shut down twice because of wheel bearing failure on a Sportster {after a new tire was installed} one of the first things I did on my new '99 RK was check the end play, front & rear. If the end play was checked {correctly} you would remember.
 

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.017 is 17 thousands,, .0017 is less than 2 thousands.. or 1.7 thousands of an inch..

shims are used to set the end play of the wheel on the early tapered bearing wheels... it was found that the 3 different spacer length,, didn't get all the wheels end play in spec,, so, a shorter center spacer was used,, with 1 thick spacer,,, appx .100" and then finished with thin spacers, .005/.007. to achieve the proper end play... I always set the end play dry,, then packed the bearings before assembly..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I found a good video while trolling the internet during the morning glory that explains it pretty good too. I’m wondering if that flush axel is slightly different than the stock and threw off the end play and I just hadn’t noticed it yet? But seems pretty straight forward IF you have that dial indicator.

https://youtu.be/aI4pkxelK-U
 

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it should not have changed the end play,,, since the shoulder on the axle, butts against,, and pulls the spacer into the bearing,, unless the axle is somehow damaged or cut improperly...
didn't you check that during the axle change? if not you should have,,, since a great majority of parts do not fit correctly for 1 reason or another
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ever heard the saying “know enough to get in trouble” haha.

I know how to change the axel and bearings etc BUT didn’t know about checking for end play. That’s y you guys get paid to do it and we ask about issues after the fact haha

But no I def did not check after the axel swap. I’ll start there since I know there’s play and see if that corrects it. It’s about time for a new tire anyway

And is it axle or axel haha.
 

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flush axle

Ah ha... a last thing you "fixed" problem".

Chances are the wheel bearing stack is OK.

What Flush axle do you have?
 

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Take it part and start over...Tighten the axle nut before the pinch bolt on the opposite side. That will draw the assemby together and you can check for excessive play then.
 
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