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Just a little note,some Shovelheads are rubber mounts and 5 speeds like the newer bikes,they do not vibe near as bad as the solid mount bikes.
'80-'83 Tourglides and '82-'83 FXRs.
As I recall he was looking at Superglides so I might suggest an '82-'83 FXR. :cool:

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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Thanks for all the info. I just love the looks and sound, and besides the one post indicating that the bike with vibrate apart in a short time, I feel like it may be the right choice for me.

How much should I expect to pay for a super glide or FXR shovel (78-83 ish)???
 
Shovelnut79 said:
I read this far, so forgive me if someone said this already.

Loc-tite, lots and lots of Loc-tite. Every 500 miles as a maximum you have to run through and tighten everything and I mean everything. 250 if you really want to be safe. Find out if the ignition has been changed to an electronic ignition, you will want that it will save you some time. Everything on this bike will shake, rattle and eventually fall off if you dont keep on top of it. If you do, they Rock.

If by chance the seller says that they installed the counter balancer that is supposed to help with vibration, it doesnt. I ride mine between Minnesota and wisconsin all the time 400 plus miles per trip and yes I have some loose stuff at the end of that but it is minor things, tappet blocks, Mirrors, Little bolt holding my dash down, and occasionally I have a spark plug that backs itself out, this you can tell right away. If you like working on bikes, get it. They are fun, fast and sound awesome. Also, the old ones have a look that people love.
I think a little exagerated. Check full bike every winter. The things that might fail are the things you didnt check in the winter. my opinion.
 
hivolt132 said:
I think a little exagerated. Check full bike every winter. The things that might fail are the things you didnt check in the winter. my opinion.
Yeah, I would agree with that. I may have exagerated a bit, but if you own one, the best thing to do is check it all the time. Gas station, Before you head out times like that. Mine vibrates like crazy when it gets going right around 70 - 80 and I ride at that speed for long distances so...I shake the hell out of it on my trips.
 
I agree with what everyone else says on here vibrating etc etc.

But like everyone else said with maintenance and up keep you will not find a

Sweeter sounding bad ass sounding Machine than an old shovel with straight drag pipes. oooooooooooooooooooh yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa


My dad has an old 79 wide glide we customed out and did some engine work on has cam not sure he did that while i was gone, has straight drag pipes and man this bike just sounds so dam good and LOUD. but it takes upkeep and work when you ride it got to check the bolts. And everything.

To give you an idea he bought the bike several years back for right around 6k since then it has been frame up restored twice once then he got hit by truck with only 25miles on engine and tranny rebuild. Did a complete frame up again with new forks 80 twisted spoke more chrome and bigger cam and dam this thing sounds good. He has about $15,000 or more in the bike now. I love the bike and he will never sell it as its one he will always have along with his 2003 Ultra.
 
Newultraclassic was right on. I have a '75 Superglide. It vibrated miserably from 55mph, and 65 was no fun at all. I aligned the upper motor mount, put in baffles, tightened everything, and I try to stay on engine tune and vac. leaks. (I am overdue for all new rear drive sprockets.) Vibes are waaay down. After all this was done and I was sure that all mechanical things were Best available, I started with grips, pegs, made a fork brace to kill the "tuning forks" and tightened the seat to lower vibes. She will cruise the interstate very nicely now, and nothing has the sound of the old Harleys. The key seems to be to get it ALL tightened, aligned, and good to go. It does little to align the upper mount, but not tighten the primary bolts and the tranny bolts, and the pegs, and the kick stand, etc. Once ALL is tight, I just check it from time to time. Mine has been VERY reliable, left me stuck less than my V-Max.
 
I still ride my 1978-1/2 80" FLH once in a while. It is increadable, have not done a thing to it in 5 years now, it was freshened up by Wade Lentner in Ottumwa about 20 years ago when it had 96,000 miles on it, has 140,000 now. We have an article comming out in American Iron in the October issue about making Shovels perform.
 
shovelheads are great

I love my shovelhead. even though I'm having a couple issues now, but it looks great, sounds great and the vibration is great, and the girls love it. If you dont like alittle wrenching and alittle oil leaks its not for you.

If you want to be different riding up too your local Hooters, then its the engine for you.

Dare to be different and not your local yuppie new Harley Rider.

See a bike broken down, make sure there OK, some day it might be you.
 
Yeah, I broke down the other day. My shifter lever just broke in half. I have superglide fx from 75. It turned into a party, everyone stopping and trying to help me out. Turned out I fixed it temporarily with an electrical splice block. Great bike, sounds great, leaks. I usually stop but from now on I will stop for sure.
 
A Shovelhead will become a part of you, and you will become a part of it. Might take some time, but it will happen.

Twenty+ years ago I built an obsolete POS. Slightly bored over 80 with solid lifters, worthless points, an old outdated S&S Super B, no electric start, open shotgun drag pipes, single plug, 8:1 compression.
All the stuff I could afford was the old stuff that everyone was replacing with new, state of the art garbage.

Today I've got well over 300,000 miles on her and she still starts with two primers and one spark.
 
A shovel is very similar to an evo. The oil pump is the same on later shovels, the cranks are almost identical, almost all of the cam chest are is the same. Evo lifter blocks and cams will bolt in.

As for vibration, a shovel should not vibrate any more than an evo with the same stroke. Proper balancing, modern bearings and machining processes can make a shovel run very smooth.

Modern electronic ignitions, pushrod oiling systems, modern valve train and carburetors can make a shovel extremely reliable and maintenance free.

Take an old shovel and spend the kind of money some people spend on TC and you will have a bike that is very reliable, makes good power and will be way cooler than any TC.

The problem is the dealerships wont work on them and a good majority of the TC owners are too afraid to go into an indi shop and caint work on their own bikes.
 
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