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Discussion Starter #21
Yep, just rides inside. It is actually 3 pieces. The rod, a short piece connected to the release plate on the clutch side, and a short piece connected to the oil slinger/throw-out bearing on the other end. That's the piece next to the dipstick in your last pic. You can see where the rod joins up with the recess in the short piece on each end.


Here is a diagram if you don't have the manual.

As for the throw out bearing, were you having any problems with it before?
No I wasn’t but I changed the clutch and rebuilt the tranny While I had it out to repair that shifter pawl. The only bearing I did not replace was the throw out bearing. I got everything back together and working but I’m having issues getting the clutch adjusted perfectly. I may have a long cable I’m running out of threads. Also when finding the sweat spot I have a hiccup in the threads. Every turn from beginning to end feels like your hitting the rod.
 

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Cables are fairly cheap. If you think it could be an issue, best to put a new one in and hang the old one on the wall for an emergency back up. I have some non-stock bars on mine, so I had to do a little searching before I got the right one. I have about 3 or 4 cables for mine that are all a little different, but they all do work. One, when adjusted, has only about a half thread or so to go before the adjuster comes apart. Have to be careful locking that one. Harley has a list somewhere with all the key dimensions of their clutch cables. Find one with the right amount sticking out the clutch end and go from there to mate up with any mods done to the bike. A good parts dude or dudette could also probably help[ you out a lot to make sure you have the best solution to the problem.

The last couple of times I had to replace mine was when they started to stretch due to my poor maintenance. I could feel the adjustment start to go away and there were signs the barrel was starting to separate from the cable.

Also, you can pop out the retaining ring on you release plate so you can remove and disassemble it to chase the threads on one or both parts. Might help to narrow down the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
What do you mean pop off the retaining ring. On the primary side. I’ve just installed the new scorpion clutch and complete gasket so the pressure plate and everything is different. That’s where I’m having the hiccup as I call it. Maybe it would explain better like when I’m looking to just barely touch the clutch pushrod for adjustment. When I turn the adjuster screw every rotation feels as if you have touched the pushrod. It’s almost like there is gravel in the threads. You know how if a thread is dirty it feels tight at a certain spot every rotation. The scorpion clutch gasket thread Is like that. At a certain spot in the rotation it feels like it’s got pressure. From about the second thread all the way in. Therefor it’s hard to hit that sweat spot as I would on the stock clutch. I received a new Barnett cable yesterday. I’m going to change out the throw out bearing while I’m here. Do you happen to have any experience with the baker heavy duty throw out bearing. J&p was supposed to overnight to me but of course this didn’t happen. Now I can wait a few more days to install it all back or I can just run to my dealer and pick up a OEM one I just don’t know if it’s worth waiting or not. Does it make that big of a difference? I love Bakers parts but im tired of waiting.
 

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Sorry. I had a brain fart. This has been going on so long that I forgot you were putting in a different clutch.

I don't understand clutch gasket. I've seen where they have the adjuster screw and locknut. Some use the stock clutch basket, and some go all out and buy the Barnett basket. Still adjusts the same as the stocker. I would still chase those threads. Could be a manufacturing defect.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
yeah it has to be a manufacturer defect it hits that rough area evert turn from like the second thread in so im literately holing the cable until I feel the adjuster screw hit the pushrod. That is the only way I know how to do??????? I used the same basket but the hub or whatever that comes with the scorpion kit is where the adjuster screwed into the middle there.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Also my shifter pawl is different then what everything I have read about. The pawl adjustment screw does not have a lock nut on it. It’s just a torch head volt that screws all the way tight to the tranny case. There’s no way to lock it. What is to prevent it from backing out.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
That’s a pic of what oers look like. Mine does not it’s just a torx 50 with no lock nut and when screwed all the way in the adjustment is perfect. How am I supposed to lock however. Locktite
 

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Shiny, clean looking pic = old style. Dirty, grubby looking pic = new style.

That one with the lock nut is the old style, back when the shift drum was solid. That's what I had on mine until I upgraded to the later hollow shift drum. I think the donor for my bike was a 2005. There is also an eccentric on the inside end of the screw to actually give some adjustment to the plate on the shift pawl. I'm not sure what year all this stuff changed. I do know my buddy with the 2001 SuperGlide has the later style So your Torx screw is correct. It doesn't give any adjustment, just centers. It (or a new one) has a locking compound that locks and seals the screw. I haven't had any problems with the screw since the change.

I'd say clean up the screw and reapply a good coat of locking compound, or better yet, Just pick a shiny new one from the dealer. It will have a nice thick coat of Milwaukee's finest seal/lock goo.

Refer to the link above for a part # and price. I just did. Wow! I see the change was 2001 and the screw cost 2.49. When I look at the screw for 2006, it has an "A" and cost 27.99. Better to just reuse your old one at that price if it is still serviceable.

How is the fit on the shifter shaft where it passes through the case? Any slop? You can tighten that up with a new bushing. It's well worth it if you have a real worn one. No amount of tightening the pinch bolt in the shift lever can overcome a worn out bushing.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I have got back together and yes I did change all the bearings and bushings while inside. I’d rather just do it correct then twice. I added a lot of red locktite to the screw after I cleaned up very good. So there is no way to adjust the shifter pawl with our shifter drums hum. It’s dead center and I have no play now that everything is back together. I actually had a bad clutch cable I cheated out when I added the bars and bought some kit from la choppers and the only thing I was able to use was the electrical and the brake lines and even the brake lines are too long but I was able to make work. Long story short the dang cable was not giving me enough adjustment room to dial in correctly. I finished throw out bearings last night and drained oils so hopefully I’ll be riding this thing again tomorrow. Thanks for all your help. Truly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
ok now I need help. I can not get the adjustment in clutch correct. I’ve removed all slack from cable. Then set the balls and ramp. Then turn out two turns and back in until I just touch the pushrod. Then backed off everywhere from 1/4 to 1 turn. Then tighten adjuster and lock it up. Then take slack out of cable and it’s just not working correct. It won’t even let me shift gears it’s so out of adjustmen. What am I missing or not trying? Please help. Today is my last chance to ride
 

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Only time I had this issue was when I got cable and release mechanism adjustment so out of whack that the ball and ramp mechanism was so over-centered (forward) and it got to where I couldn't even pull in the clutch, much less shift. I would pop off the clutch release cover and go through the whole thing again. What you might want to try first is put a LOT of slack in the clutch cable, then go in through the dipstick hole and push the inner ramp with the lever back towards the rear, hopefully getting all the pieces back in their proper relationship. Just follow the cable that you can see in the hole to see where you need to push. If it works, it means you don't have to drain and disassemble that side. If the balls managed to get out of their grooves, no luck. Gotta go all the way. Now when I do the adjustment, I make sure the inner ramp is all the way back before I start any adjustment to head off the problem.

Of course, this might not be the problem and does nothing but suck up a little more of your time. Also, I'm thinking your dip stick opening is behind the ball and ramps and you might not be able to do this like I do with my Dyna. You would have to come up with a hook to pull the lever back into position. Also, might not be able to do it at all without taking the whole cover off.

P.S. After rereading your post, you say you take out the slack at the start of the process. No, you put in the slack. Otherwise, you will do exactly as I have described and get the lever over-centered (forward)and will never be able to overcome this mistake. Be a slacker!
 

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I wonder if you need to push the lever inside the transmission towards the back of the bike before you attempt to adjust it. That was an issue with the Buell XB series, if you didn't push the lever back, you would get a bad adjustment. It made a little click when pushed back if I remember correctly. Otherwise it would seem that the cable is too long and could have stretched, or that the balls are not on the ramps. A cable is like $75 so not something I would just run off off and replace, but might be a consideration. Might be worth pulling the cable out and measuring it for length, if it seems like a half inch too long, it may be broken in the middle. My Buell got to be about a half inch before I decided to replace it, then pulled on the adjusters to move them around and saw the fraying. The new cable was also a teflon coated one so it slid more easily.

As to the above post, I think he meant that he brought the cable adjuster together which is the slack position. But if in doubt, you can take the cable right off the hand control and know that you have as much slack as you can possibly get.

I'd pull the ramp/ball assembly apart and take a look at it, make sure it goes back together the proper way. Then push the lever back to seat the balls all the way back, and make the adjustment again.

After that I'd want to measure the full stack height of he clutch disks and make sure they were within the limits of spec., you may find out that you needed an extra plate or something odd like that. Check the instructions on the new clutch kit to make sure you didn't leave anything out. Then check the length of the pushrod to make sure it is the correct one, etc., etc.

I know you've done some of this already, but I can't remember which parts you've done.

I'll be doing much of this if I can motivate myself to get out and get the covers pulled off, need to fix a drip on the output shaft. And with that repair I expect to find many other things that need to be replaced, one of them the clutch cable. It's an 05 with 57,000 miles and sketchy service history (ham fisted goon), every minor repair brings up at least 2 more major repairs. The list of stuff is too long to list it all. I do know that it will get an easy pull ramp set when I get in there, so weak from a year of not being able to do things that the clutch would be painful at a long stop light.
 
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