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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone figured out how to replace the shifter pawl without pulling the tranny? I was exchanging my old inner primary for a new chrome one and while I was at it I am changing gaskets and seals as I get there. Of course I have small leak around the shifter mechanism and seal. Bought the bike used from my brother. Once I got everything off and cleaned up I went to change the shifter seal and baaasmmmmmm:mad:. I noticed the shifter shaft and lever had been stripped before and they welded it back on as a fix. This was in Sturgis of 2011. I remember it like yesterday no that I think back. One of the tent shops at the buffalo chip repaired the linkage for us and their repair was to weld it to the shaft instead of doing job correctly. We didn’t sit there and watch-them perform the repairs but my brother does recall them telling him it would never break again. However they did not tell him that we would never be able to repair a leaky seal without complete tear down. So now I’ve got torn down and wondering if anyone can provide photos, videos, or just a good insight of how they went about replacing theirs. Any advice will be greatful.
263475
Rosen,
 

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it's really pretty simple,,, ill the trap door with all but the main drive gear attached,,, then replace the shifter shaft as an assembly and shift arm as needed...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
2006 Electra glide. So if I open the trap door I don’t have to pull the main drive from primary side to slide the gears out.
 

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in the picture it is ready on the primary side. Take the top cover off so once you get the side cover off you can slide the shaft out that holds the shift forks in place. Now the trap door is ready to slide out, might have to tap the shaft with a rubber maul to get it to go.
 

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OK on a five speed so as said above, you will need to pull the gear set.

Take the drive sprocket off, and pull the bearing race. Take the top cover off and remove the shift drum and shift forks.

Then take the right side cover off with the clutch release, unbolt the trap door from the case, and pull the door and gear set as one unit. You'll of course want to replace the pawl seal, and you need to replace the little seal in the nose of 5th gear. If you don't pull the spacer from behind the sprocket, you can leave those two seals be. If you pull the spacer, then they should be replaced.
 

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Man you guys are awesome thank you so very much. I’m ready to pull the trap door I’m just waiting on the tool they told me to buy as to not damage anything. The tools are costing much more then the parts. Regardless I’ve got all apart and I have something coming out of my main shaft that I’ve seen no videos, I can not find in the manual nothing. I think it’s the rod for the oil slinger on the other side but no videos or anything has shown this rod being inserted not removed. I bought a new scorpion clutch and was planning on using the same clutch cover throw out bearing etc butnif you guys tell me I better not then I think I’ll go to the baker throw out bearing. Here’s photo of what I’m talking about.
263478
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here’s pics of the other side View attachment 263479 nhow do I know if the throw out bearing needs replaced?
View attachment 263480
Man you guys are awesome thank you so very much. I’m ready to pull the trap door I’m just waiting on the tool they told me to buy as to not damage anything. The tools are costing much more then the parts. Regardless I’ve got all apart and I have something coming out of my main shaft that I’ve seen no videos, I can not find in the manual nothing. I think it’s the rod for the oil slinger on the other side but no videos or anything has shown this rod being inserted not removed. I bought a new scorpion clutch and was planning on using the same clutch cover throw out bearing etc butnif you guys tell me I better not then I think I’ll go to the baker throw out bearing. Here’s photo of what I’m talking about.
View attachment 263478
ok So now I know this is the clutch. pushrod what I thought it was my big question is does it just ride free inside main shaft. There are no bearing or clips or anything in here just the pushrod?:unsure::ROFLMAO:
 

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Yep, just rides inside. It is actually 3 pieces. The rod, a short piece connected to the release plate on the clutch side, and a short piece connected to the oil slinger/throw-out bearing on the other end. That's the piece next to the dipstick in your last pic. You can see where the rod joins up with the recess in the short piece on each end.


Here is a diagram if you don't have the manual.

As for the throw out bearing, were you having any problems with it before?
 

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Man you guys are awesome thank you so very much. I’m ready to pull the trap door I’m just waiting on the tool they told me to buy as to not damage anything. The tools are costing much more then the parts. Regardless I’ve got all apart and I have something coming out of my main shaft that I’ve seen no videos, I can not find in the manual nothing. I think it’s the rod for the oil slinger on the other side but no videos or anything has shown this rod being inserted not removed. I bought a new scorpion clutch and was planning on using the same clutch cover throw out bearing etc butnif you guys tell me I better not then I think I’ll go to the baker throw out bearing. Here’s photo of what I’m talking about. View attachment 263478
Has anyone figured out how to replace the shifter pawl without pulling the tranny? I was exchanging my old inner primary for a new chrome one and while I was at it I am changing gaskets and seals as I get there. Of course I have small leak around the shifter mechanism and seal. Bought the bike used from my brother. Once I got everything off and cleaned up I went to change the shifter seal and baaasmmmmmm:mad:. I noticed the shifter shaft and lever had been stripped before and they welded it back on as a fix. This was in Sturgis of 2011. I remember it like yesterday no that I think back. One of the tent shops at the buffalo chip repaired the linkage for us and their repair was to weld it to the shaft instead of doing job correctly. We didn’t sit there and watch-them perform the repairs but my brother does recall them telling him it would never break again. However they did not tell him that we would never be able to repair a leaky seal without complete tear down. So now I’ve got torn down and wondering if anyone can provide photos, videos, or just a good insight of how they went about replacing theirs. Any advice will be greatful.
View attachment 263475 Rosen,
[/
This is for the spring but it will get you there

HD shift shaft spring replacement


feels like I've done hundreds of these things and as time is money in
the wrenching field, I've learned how to do it
-fast-
takes some talent though. aka patience.
if you have no other obvious reason to take the inner primary drive apart,
then leave it alone. Takes too much time and too much potential for creating
a problem that doesn't currently exist.
extract the transmission top cover and whatever else is in the way of it.
If the starter is in the way, just blow the two bolts holding it to the
inner primary, pop it loose and rotate it clear of the trans top. If it's a
softail, unbolt the oil tank and swing it out the right side. no need to
drain it nor disconnect any lines.
next yank the exhaust, clutch release cover, shift drum, forks and fork
shaft.
unbolt the door from the trans housing. Remove the nuts from the main and
countershafts.
now heres where the special tool comes into play.
It's a crossbar that bolts to the trans door and pushes the main and
countershafts out of their bearings. You can use this tool to extract the
door and bearings from the shafts and transmission. The bearings will need
to be replaced after this is done.
remove the spacer, first gear, clip and shifter clutch from the main shaft.
At this point, the countershaft in it's entirety can slide right out of the
transmission.
now move to the shifter. Unbolt the shift rod from the trans shift arm,
remove the pinch bolt from it too.
make a note as to the position of the arm relative to the shaft so you can
reinstall it in the correct location on the spline.
slide the shifter arm as far off as it will go, then reach in with a pick
and grab hold of the circlip, and rip it out with wild abandon. Now you can
pull the shift shaft inward and free of the bushing.

Install the new spring, and stuff it back in so the shaft barely protrudes
through the seal.
with deft precision, use a 90degree snap ring plier to install the snap ring
about 1/4 inch onto the shaft, then sneak the shift arm back into there,
then push the shift shaft the rest of the way into place, push the shift arm
onto the shaft to slam the cirlip into place then reinstall the pinch bolt.
now, reinstall the countershaft and mainshaft parts , replace the bearings
in the trans door, then use the shaft end nuts to pull the door back onto
the transmission.
Reassembly is the reverse of
disassembly at this point.
remember to look for the piece of spring that came off when it broke, and
check the teeth for bends.
If you recover all the spring parts with no dents in them from going through
the teeth, you're fortunate.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No I’m just changing everything since it’s got 46k miles and I have apart. Once will be enough. I do have manual but I never seen anything about that clutch rod. It makes perfect since. I’m just kinda shocked it just rides in there with no connections or bearings nothing. Anyways git past all that and now I’m changing fifth gear bearings in the main drive gear. I ordered a special tool but they called today and said they are now out of stock. I even called to confirm they had and paid for it to be overnighted. Do you or anyone know how to replace the fifth gear bearings inside main drive gear without this special depth tool?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
has anyone installed the needle bearings in the main drive gear without the Jims special tool they require? I purchased one a week ago from j&p and have yet to receive and need to finish this up.
 

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Jims isn't the only source for these tools. You might try George's Garage. Also, I see where OTC is showing a kit. Jim's and Bakers both have nice (some might say expensive)versions, probably available from somewhere out there besides the manufacturer.

Do you have a good relationship with some Indy near by? Might let you borrow his, or rent it to you, since your bike is in no condition for a shop visit.

You could always look online at the instructions for whatever brand and see if it is something you could fab up.

I found a link from a couple of bikers from the way-back machine, talking about making a puller:

https://www.v-twinforum.com/threads/main-drive-gear-removal.146401/

2X on measuring the depth, and installing the new one the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
We got it. When I looked back through the book it says that it’s a interference bearing or something and will easily come in and out. Like butter. The only thing I’m little worried about was while trying to get the retainer ring out I had some cheap snap lock pliers and they kept snapping off of course. It made few scratches in the bore. has any of you ever used A gasket adhesive while installing main drive gear seal?they are minor but I don’t want to do job twice. Any of you guys recommend a product like a copper spray or whatever. Here’s a pic of the scratches.
263522
 

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1000 grit or higher sand paper to smooth them out. If you feel you still need a sealer, I always recommend Hylomar. You can order the real stuff on the web, but the Permatex stuff has been OK too. But sealer on this type of "gasket" is generally not recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok guys I need help again. I’ve completely rebuilt the tranny and the primary installed new clutch and everything is back together as should be. My issue is this darn cable. I’m running out of thread before I can finish adjustment at the lever. I’ve collapsed cable and redone the clutch adjuster screw several times. I have a hard spot in the threads of the adjuster s few on clutch gasket so it’s very difficult to find the sweat spot. Every single turn feels like your hitting the rod. But I figured out how to do that. I’ve removed the lever and as soon as I feel the screw hit the rod inside with my fingers on the cable i know I’m hitting the rod and start the back out of 1/4 turn to 1 turn. I’m still having the issue of running out of threads on my cable though. Please somebody give me a answer to this most frustrating item.
thank you
Brian
 

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Could the cable be broken and about to come apart? Every one that I've had which started to fray got much longer and ran out of adjustment. Took a while but I learned that when they do this, I'm either missing something inside the clutch, or the cable is junk and needs to be replaced. Get a teflon coated cable, then slide more easily.
 

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Ok guys I need help again. I’ve completely rebuilt the tranny and the primary installed new clutch and everything is back together as should be. My issue is this darn cable. I’m running out of thread before I can finish adjustment at the lever. I’ve collapsed cable and redone the clutch adjuster screw several times. I have a hard spot in the threads of the adjuster s few on clutch gasket so it’s very difficult to find the sweat spot. Every single turn feels like your hitting the rod. But I figured out how to do that. I’ve removed the lever and as soon as I feel the screw hit the rod inside with my fingers on the cable i know I’m hitting the rod and start the back out of 1/4 turn to 1 turn. I’m still having the issue of running out of threads on my cable though. Please somebody give me a answer to this most frustrating item.
thank you
Brian
This isn't by any book, but is something I experimented with on my old RK when I had the same problem. Here is how I found that sweet spot.

Starting with everything "tightened up", loosen up the mid-cable adjuster to introduce the slack into your cable. Loosen it up until you can just pull the lever back to the handlebar grip, no looser and no tighter than that. Now back off the lock nut on the adjuster under the derby cover. With your allen on the adjuster screw, start turning the adjuster screw in with your right hand while holding the clutch lever against the grip with your left hand. There will be a point where as the adjuster screw is going "in" it starts to move the lever in your hand. When you identify that point, use that as your "resistance point" for the adjuster screw. Now, back out the adjuster screw about 1/2 turn from there, tighten the lock nut, adjust your cable, and give it a try.

You may need to tweek a little from there, but that should get you to where your cable adjuster will stay in it's range. If the cable adjuster is still out of range then the clutch adjuster screw needs to go in a little farther.
 
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