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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Oil pressure dropped to zilch, so I checked the flow and there was none either to or from the pump, so I pulled the gearcase cover off and the oil pump drive key is busted.

I just quit for the night, but I'm wondering how I'm gonna get that key replaced. Do I have to pull that worm gear out? I haven't opened the oil pump yet, but I'm hoping it can be salvaged.

Any advice would be appreciated, including any root cause ideas, since I don't want to fix it just to have it happen again.

The rest of the story:
73 FLH
Revtech Oil Pump
Andrews B cam
Double plugged and a Super B carb.
Oil cooler

I just got the Bike and it was sitting for a few years.... standard stuff was required to get it running including a carb rebuild, clean entire fuel system, oil change with filter and fresh 50wt. Before this happened, I put about 60 easy miles on it, over four runs. It seemed to run great the whole time. Prior to this morning it consistently had 30+ psi at start and 15-20 when warm. It definitely had flow through the tank before this morning.

Help a n00b out, I'm still hoping to ride it more this year.:unsure:

Edit: The key is NOT sheared, it fell out! After a tense 20 minutes, I finally found the key stuck to the inside of the gear case cover. Everything looks good including the pump and inside of the gearcase. The only suspicious thing is the inner snap-ring (from the pump drive shaft) is expanded. I think the split in the snap ring aligned with the keyway and allowed the key to slip out. I am hoping for a speedy and full recovery for only the cost of the gaskets and a new snapring. I'm still interested in any comments you old timers might have.....

BTW, I knew it was the oil pump as soon as I read this statement in the HD service manual: "under normal operating conditions, the oil pump is a relatively trouble-free component" =P
 

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step said:
Oil pressure dropped to zilch, so I checked the flow and there was none either to or from the pump, so I pulled the gearcase cover off and the oil pump drive key is busted.

I just quit for the night, but I'm wondering how I'm gonna get that key replaced. Do I have to pull that worm gear out? I haven't opened the oil pump yet, but I'm hoping it can be salvaged.

Any advice would be appreciated, including any root cause ideas, since I don't want to fix it just to have it happen again.

The rest of the story:
73 FLH
Revtech Oil Pump
Andrews B cam
Double plugged and a Super B carb.
Oil cooler

I just got the Bike and it was sitting for a few years.... standard stuff was required to get it running including a carb rebuild, clean entire fuel system, oil change with filter and fresh 50wt. Before this happened, I put about 60 easy miles on it, over four runs. It seemed to run great the whole time. Prior to this morning it consistently had 30+ psi at start and 15-20 when warm. It definitely had flow through the tank before this morning.

Help a n00b out, I'm still hoping to ride it more this year.:unsure:

Edit: The key is NOT sheared, it fell out! After a tense 20 minutes, I finally found the key stuck to the inside of the gear case cover. Everything looks good including the pump and inside of the gearcase. The only suspicious thing is the inner snap-ring (from the pump drive shaft) is expanded. I think the split in the snap ring aligned with the keyway and allowed the key to slip out. I am hoping for a speedy and full recovery for only the cost of the gaskets and a new snapring. I'm still interested in any comments you old timers might have.....

BTW, I knew it was the oil pump as soon as I read this statement in the HD service manual: "under normal operating conditions, the oil pump is a relatively trouble-free component" =P
Good. Looks like you found your problem. I see that you got inside of the gear case to find it, too. That's really necessary anyway if you lose or strip a key. It's impossible to be sure if the keys are going to stay in place when working from the outside.

Obviously, you should repace the drive keys in the pump with new ones. Also, of course, the 2 snap rings. Good thing to look for would be excessive end clearance on the pump drive shaft, although this is seldom the problem. Another thing to check is the fiit of the keys in the drive shaft. Sometimes the keyways will get worn afer long use and they won't readily hold a key....You can get new parts from the J&P and other catalogs.

When you re-install the pump, I would use the standard paper gaskets. The plastic ones will tend to leak.

Sounds like your key just sneaked out. You were lucky on that one. If they get into the gears, it's not a pretty sight.


Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
newultraclassic said:
You were lucky on that one. If they get into the gears, it's not a pretty sight.
step said:
After a tense 20 minutes
:cheers:

Got snap rings today at work.
Gaskets & keys should be at the Jebby Shack (local) tomorrow.

Here is a link to the beauty in question: http://img489.imageshack.us/img489/3292/flh3dw.jpg


Edit: I used the correct snap ring & c-ring - I did NOT use the ones i found at work.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I got it all back together, but I wiped out my timing mark for the breaker plate and I'm having trouble getting it running right. There is also a small chance that I completely reversed (180 deg) the points cam.

Any tips? I'm not familiar enough to get very far by ear...... Can I do any damage if it's really far outta wacK?

Edit: After reading the HD manual (duh) I see that rough timing can be accomplished by aligning the flywheel retarded mark at the edge of the inspection hole. How many marks are on the flywheel in total? Three? The line for advanced spark, small low dot for retarded, and large centered dot for TDC on front cyl. Is this correct? I am having trouble finding them due to being a one-man operation here. lol.
 

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step said:
I got it all back together, but I wiped out my timing mark for the breaker plate and I'm having trouble getting it running right. There is also a small chance that I completely reversed (180 deg) the points cam.

Any tips? I'm not familiar enough to get very far by ear...... Can I do any damage if it's really far outta wacK?

Edit: After reading the HD manual (duh) I see that rough timing can be accomplished by aligning the flywheel retarded mark at the edge of the inspection hole. How many marks are on the flywheel in total? Three? The line for advanced spark, small low dot for retarded, and large centered dot for TDC on front cyl. Is this correct? I am having trouble finding them due to being a one-man operation here. lol.
I think it's pretty hard to reverse the points cam. I recall that there is a pin in there. The ones I have only go one way.

Forget the timing mark and bring the front clyinder up to Top Dead Center on the compression stroke and then take a look at your points cam. One of the lobes should have just closed.

If that's the case, you should be able to adjust it by ear to get it close enough. I've never been able to get the timing correct using the timing mark, myself. I get it close and then take it for a ride with some tools handy. Works for me.

Good luck.


P.S. Eventually do yourself a favor and get a good single fire electronic ignition and ditch those weights and points. You'll be glad you did! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
newultraclassic said:
I think it's pretty hard to reverse the points cam. I recall that there is a pin in there. The ones I have only go one way.
I must disagree with you here, NUC. I succeeded in having it in 180 deg bass-ackwards. The manual illustration looks like the cam has different size slots to fit the advance mechanism, but mine is totally symmetrical, with no pin that I noticed. It certainly could be made up of non-stock parts though. After I flipped it, the whole thing got easier.

Anyway, I am riding again! Thanks for the help.
-Step
 

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step said:
I must disagree with you here, NUC. I succeeded in having it in 180 deg bass-ackwards. The manual illustration looks like the cam has different size slots to fit the advance mechanism, but mine is totally symmetrical, with no pin that I noticed. It certainly could be made up of non-stock parts though. After I flipped it, the whole thing got easier.

Anyway, I am riding again! Thanks for the help.
-Step
Well, glad you got it running. Your weight and points set are probably aftermarket. That's why there is no indexing.

Regards,

NUC
 
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