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B-Rad, BFMC 104
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hooked up the sert yesterday for some highway runs, had some trouble on the first few with it losing pcm sync, but the last 3 all recorded well.
1st thing I see is that at WOT, the throttle % shows 96%, is there something I can adjust to get it to read 100% as it should?
Also I need a tach I think to make better use of this, as I thought I was pulling closer to 6000 in the 4th gear runs, but find that I never broke 5000 when I got home.

Attatched 3 run files, if someone can take a look at them and give me some advice I would greatly appreciate it. I'm not gonna put in on the dyno until after I get the 98" kit done.

Thanks Brad
 

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B-Rad, BFMC 104
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537 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just realized that the filles didn't get attatched..
They are there now.

Thanks
 

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ovanay elinquentday
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2,021 Posts
RideMyWideGlide said:
Just realized that the filles didn't get attatched..
They are there now.

Thanks

What engine? What map?
 

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Premium Member
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451 Posts
Brad:

If your not recording 100% Throttle, get the Service Manual out and check the WOT opening per the Throttle Cable adjustment procedure.

Yes, a Tach does have an advantage for the rider, helps us make a mental note of where things are happening. :yes:

Per the Sert Manual, do a couple of WOT runs starting ~2000rpm and running up to the rev limiter. Not having a tach, just estimate the starting rpm based on mph. Do this in 2nd and 3rd gear. And make sure the engine is up to operating temp. In your first run, the Warm-up enrichment was still on.

Also do a couple of cruise recordings as detailed in the Manual.

My first concern would be any areas the Knock Retard is kicking in.

Good luck,

:cheers:
 

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B-Rad, BFMC 104
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537 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
GPO03FatBoy said:
What engine? What map?

Stock Twin Cam, Modified Stage1


I'll check the throttle adjustment tonight. As for the warm-up, it was 60+ and I rode 15 minutes to the place I did the runs. The engine was fully warmed up, or should have been....
I did several of the run using the 2000rpm-WOT in 4th, but like I said I thought I was closer to the rev-limiter than I turned out to be.

I did notice a couple places the retard kicked in, the max was 4 degrees I believe. What should I do to those areas when I identify them??


Thanks
Brad
 

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Premium Member
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426 Posts
Brad;
It looks like I am about a week ahead of you doing the same thing!!
The laptop I am borrowing only has about 40 minutes of batteries and takes forever to recharge, so this could take a while.

I never made 4500 RPM on my first run.:thumbsdn:

Here is some stuff I have read and observed.

Its amazing how fast the engine cools off, maybe not to the touch but to the point where it needs warm up fuel. As long as the computer is adding fuel you won't get an accurate reading on the anti-knock function. Oh, that should answer your question on what to do. Add fuel. Small steps though.

If the anti-knock is activated on both cylinders at the same time you can use the AFR table and add fuel, make smaller numbers. If it activates at different times use the individual VE tables, make bigger numbers there. As I understand it you are fooling the computer into thinking there is more air than there really is so it adds fuel to keep the selected air/fuel ratio. Without the O2 sensors that the 2006 bikes have it doesn't know any better.

Like yours, I found it hard to see any "steady state, 3rd gear" 2000 RPM area before the actual run begins on my tries. I'll go again this weekend and try to be steady for at least a few seconds before going to WOT. I don't have a long enough area to try 4th gear. :yikes: The steady state to WOT is also where you get the dyno function to look. But that comes later. When you get there the SERT reads lower than "real" dyno's so don't be discouraged.

If you are getting popping on deceleration go to the decel enleanment table and decrememnt the numbers, start by cutting them in half. You might end up at zero. I also read in another thread that you can advance the spark in both cylinders up to 5 degrees in the 20-30MAP, 1250-2000 RPM areas if the fuel change wasn't enough. (don't change the idle spark though)

With all this adding of fuel your mileage has suffered. You can offset this slightly by decrementing fuel in the AFR table in the low power, low RPM area. Say 30-50MAP, 1500-3500 RPM, or if you are braver than me you can advance the spark a bit in those areas (per the SERT manual). Check for anti-knock activity, take away too much fuel or advance the spark too much and it will cause anti-knock activity. I also wouldn't do it too much until you get on a dyno and get a real AFR reading, you don't want to end up too lean.

Don't forget every time you modify and load a new map call it something different. Most people I've seen just add .001, .002 etc. to the existing file until they are finished, then you can call it Bob or Sue, the computer doesn't care.

If anybody with a 2006 bike is reading this thread you have different procedures. You're on your own!!

Good luck, I'm open to more suggestions myself.
 

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ovanay elinquentday
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Good post from sloxi.

Like he said, I'd focus on the leanest areas first. Looked like you had some anti-knock in that 3800-4400 range. A stock map is generally lean. I'd add a little fuel where the knock is at its worse and do a check ride to give yourself a feel for the increment. If you had to add excessive fuel (which I wouuldn't expect), then I'd look at the spark advance. The dyno will be the real check, but you ought to be able to minimize the anti-knock.
 

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B-Rad, BFMC 104
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537 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks to both you guys for those last 2 posts.
I'm hoping to get it out this weekend for a few more runs, but we just got 8"+ snow so I'll have to wait and see.
I did take all of the red zones in AFR and drop them to 14.1 previous to these runs, but I think the retard was kicking in later than those areas. And the cycinders were not at the same retard either, 2deg on one and 4deg on the other. I don't have the runs with me here but I'll spend some time on them this evening when I get home.

Thanks again.
Brad
 

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ovanay elinquentday
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2,021 Posts
RideMyWideGlide said:
Thanks to both you guys for those last 2 posts.
I'm hoping to get it out this weekend for a few more runs, but we just got 8"+ snow so I'll have to wait and see.
I did take all of the red zones in AFR and drop them to 14.1 previous to these runs, but I think the retard was kicking in later than those areas. And the cycinders were not at the same retard either, 2deg on one and 4deg on the other. I don't have the runs with me here but I'll spend some time on them this evening when I get home.

Thanks again.
Brad
You probably did this, but HD recommends that you use the tuning mode to turn off the anti-knock setting before running in data mode. This should help you see the problem areas more clearly.
 

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Total Nutcase
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2,691 Posts
GPO03FatBoy said:
You probably did this, but HD recommends that you use the tuning mode to turn off the anti-knock setting before running in data mode. This should help you see the problem areas more clearly.

That's only true when tuning by feel (not using any data recording). When tuning by feel, you have no data recording, so you are dependant upon your ears (hence, no knock retard sensors). You would listen for the knock and adjust mixture or timing as needed.

He is tuning with data mode recording, so HD recommends leaving the knock sensors turned on. You can simply look at the charts for the knock sensors to see where timing needs to be adjusted.
 
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