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03 Fatboy SE 95, 257 cam, SE Pro heads, Hsr 42, SE intake, SE ignition, Pro pipe, Oil cooler
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone. I have a 03 fatboy I picked up a few months ago. Bike has an old twin cam 95 SE stage 4 kit. Pro mcr heads, hi comp forged pistons, 257 cams, mik 42, se intake, adjustable map ignition, se clutch, oil cooler. Had long shots which I replaced with a pro pipe, also have a big radius 2-1. Bike runs strong & has 20,000 miles. I've been doing some research on how to maximize what I have. I understand the screamin eagle isn't the best stuff but it already has it. It currently has 195lbs ccp. I'm thinking about sending the heads out to get cleaned up & cc'd. Maybe bump the compression a little closer to 11:1? Any other suggestions short of ditching all the screamin eagle stuff lol?
 

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Why change just for the sake of changing? What you have is paid for, the Pro Pipe is a good choice, just ride it.
 

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I think you should make wholesale changes of everything. After all it only "runs strong". Out with the old, in with the new. Besides, what does maximize mean to you? What could possibly go wrong?

Ride it for a season. Then you can make up your own mind about what it needs rather than ask everybody on the internet how you should spend your money.

Sounds like you have a pretty good combination. Something someone else already put some thought into.

Just don't be like that one guy here a while ago. Picked up a cherry low miles bike from the same era. Rode the snot out of it for several years. Slowly discovered it was starting to fall apart.
 

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While you are researching, better spend some time looking into what could possibly be wrong with a 20 year old, 20K bike. Complete maintenance records can ease your mind somewhat. After all, these models do have some known issues.
 

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03 Fatboy SE 95, 257 cam, SE Pro heads, Hsr 42, SE intake, SE ignition, Pro pipe, Oil cooler
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Discussion Starter #5
Appreciate the insight. I have a pretty good understanding as how things go together and also on wrenching. To answer why, well I guess really just because I like to work on things. You are correct the original owner put a good bit of money into it & it's been Itaken care of. I can feel what the 257 cam lacks on the low end & when it comes on. I come from crotch rockets so I probably twist more rpms than a lot of v twin guys. The kit it has is supposed to be 10.5:1 where I have read that 10.8-11:1 is really where the 257 is best at. Also read that the mcr heads were pretty decent but benefit from a little clean up & making sure they are equal. I guess in my head that pulling the heads off when it gets cold & having that done might add a little for not a ton of money or work.
 

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Does it get cold in S.C.?

Here's an idea. Pop off the cam cover, only 10 screws. Have a close look at the tensioner shoes. Outer is easy to see, inner a little harder. If they haven't already been replaced, 20K is coming into the window for it. If they look good, no signs of wear, close it back up and think about it again next year. If they look like they need some attention, it would be a perfect opportunity to have a little head work done also. The only problem is it could call for some additional mods as most people don't just replace the worn shoes with stockers. There are several paths for replacement/upgrades. That's something else to study.

Did you get a Factory service manual with the bike? It will pay for itself in no time.
 

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03 Fatboy SE 95, 257 cam, SE Pro heads, Hsr 42, SE intake, SE ignition, Pro pipe, Oil cooler
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Discussion Starter #7
I have looked at the shoes. They appear to be in good shape. Have a little wear but no chunks missing or cracks that I can see. It does run good. I'll try & leave it be for a while lol.
 

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i, for one, believe more compression is always a plus,, however to utilize it properly, with no.issues,, the heads must be done right,, and the camshaft choice,, will seem.incorrect to many, except the real.pro street motor builders,,, there are several here who are excellent,,, im retired,,,

i have found, especially on larger engines that develop torque as a result of the bore stroke combo,, a more radical camshaft can be used to bleed off a bit of the high compression at lower rpm,, and bringing power in above 3k rpm,, and capability of 7k..

i do believe attempting this, on an already built engine,,, would be a mistake,,, it should be engineered from the ground up,,, rather than attempting to come in and attempt it... i wouldnt do it,,, ive found SE ,,, to be too much of a compromise from the start,,, they can make good power,,. longevity is always an issue,,,

this is just an opinion,,, some may agree or disagree,, all engine builders havd arrived where they are after decades of building. we take different paths to the objective..
 

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Rootin toottin and TT pretty much nailed it. I'll add it sounds like your motor was built right - parts complement one another. Everything's been addressed. You say it runs well and at 195 CCP, you're right on the edge of the no PMS zone. IMO, you stand more of a chance of screwing it up than improving things, especially if you start screwing around piecemeal.

The only thing I'd suggest is look into changing final drive to 3.37 via the clutch basket. I forget the part numbers and such, but that was a popular change for builds like yours and will get you on the cam sooner. I ran that in a 98" TC build similar to yours. You'll turn more RPM - about 500 more per a given speed in 5th IIRC -- 3500 at 70 - but with the 4" stroke, no problem. The drop in final drive ratio will give noticeably more punch off the bottom and I suspect you'll like it. Finally, I'll add the combo your running is very similar to what I ran and IMHO, think was about perfect. Had it not slipped the crank, I'd still have it. A strong, fun, trouble-free motor. FYI. YMMV.
 

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03 Fatboy SE 95, 257 cam, SE Pro heads, Hsr 42, SE intake, SE ignition, Pro pipe, Oil cooler
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Discussion Starter #10
I'm picking up what yall are putting down. It does run good so why mess with a good thing. I rode it for about an hour today & let it cool down for about 20 minutes when I got home. Checked the compression again warm & it was about 206-207 on both cylinders. I think I'll replace the pads with cyco pads & change the cam bearings while I'm in there this winter. What are y'alls thoughts on a hsr 45 vs the 42 I have now? I have read both that you'll lose mid range for a small gain on top but then someone else says they lost nothing & gained 5hp on top. If I could get my hands on one for the right price I'd try it out.
 

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You want to make a difference? Seems that what you have is doing what it was intended to do.

If you want to go to the next level then the "practical" choices you have are either a long stroke crate engine or buy some cases and a quality stroker crank and build up from there.
If you decide to step up then you have some homework to do.Lots of choices to make.Some great quality products to choose form and some crap out there.If you happen to choose some high quality components then you have to get the combination of parts correct.
 

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Mikuni 42 vs 45.

Back when I was in the build up phase, I had a 42mm on my bike. The other specs sound a lot like your combo. I had just upgraded from the Andrews 37Gs and cast flat top SE 95" pistons to S&S 585Gs with SE forged high compression pistons. The bike ran strong, but I wasn't happy with the mid to upper 30's for mpg. I fiddled with jets and even did a rebuild on the carb. A lot of work for no change. I just happened to find a good deal on a bare 45mm carb so I went for it. If I'd seen the same deal for a 42mm, I probably would have gone that route. Of course it also called for a big bore manifold, so the easiest route was the SE big bore item. There are probably better options. The 42mm must have been worn because with the new parts, it moved up to the 42-43 mpg range. I'm calling it a 5 mpg improvement.

The 42mm was about 8 years old when replaced. Now 11 years or so later, I'm still 40-41 mpg for every fill up. The 45mm is probably worn now too, but as long as it stays in the 40's I won't sweat it.

I couldn't say that I picked up 5 HP here or lost something there, I just don't remember back that far. The whole combo went from about 85HP/94TQ to about 105HP/104TQ. The HP graphs cross at about 3200, just about when the 585Gs start to kick in. What the carb by itself meant to that, ¿quien sabe?

Everything I did to the bike back then was driven by the Zippers full cnc stage III heads. Big ports, big valves, bla bla bla. I don't know anything about the SE mcr heads other than what I've read. No idea how they compare. I did install my own set of compression releases, which I use just about all the time, except for cold starts. Last time I did a compression test came to 205, pretty high. Maybe 2 years ago. Related, through the years I have had starter issues, mostly the starter clutch. Just don't try to suck another year out of your battery when it starts telling you it's time is up. And make sure your battery connections are always clean and tight. And nothing says you couldn't go for some high quality aftermarket cables, I did the Terry cables.

Finally, you're probably right at the point now where you can enjoy what you have. Things like crate motors and anything else that gives a really fun improvement will move you into the finding all the weaknesses of the original design phase.
 

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Your combo is fine and the proper compression for the cam. SE257 is nearly the same as the Andrews 67, no slouch but needs in the high tens carbed and 11:1 injected. You spend a lot more and get a little more performance at 95" or buy a crank and a case bore and go for it at 117". I would leave it alone or go for it and not dabble. Porting your heads will help but there are not that many porters that "get" those head ports. They have origins with the old EVO performance heads and also used on 2003-2006 CVO 103 wit a different chamber. The heads are easy to screw up in the hands of an amateur. Adjustable ignition, Mik 45 or CV44, the heads done, and a fatcat could gain you 10+ hp and be at or near 120 with a respectable torque curve. Spendy 10hp
 
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