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I would like to get opinions on replacing the SE 203's in my bike. Bike is a 02' RKC with 40,000 miles. Stage 2 build done by the dealer upon delivery. Running V and H true duals, power commander, and SE air filter. No head work done!
I am not looking for any real improvement in performance but would like to rid myself of the potential for tensioner failure. So which gear driven cam would be my best bet? Will I have too dyno to retune the power commander?
Hope I have given enough info and look forward to replies on the subject.

Thanks!

harleyboy63401
 

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If I replace my 203's, it'll be with Andrews 21's. Don't have any personal experience with them, but everything I've read about them says they would work well for me. I never go above 4000 rpm and usually shift at 3000. I could care less what happens at 5-6000 rpm.
 

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murphdog said:
If I replace my 203's, it'll be with Andrews 21's. Don't have any personal experience with them, but everything I've read about them says they would work well for me. I never go above 4000 rpm and usually shift at 3000. I could care less what happens at 5-6000 rpm.
You are kidding right? If you shift at 3000, you must be constatnly lugging your motor. I am pretty sure this is not good for the engine over the long haul...
 

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Shifting at 3000 is certainly not lugging the motor....
 

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SYCLONE said:
Shifting at 3000 is certainly not lugging the motor....
Bravo, SYCLONE. It kills me to read some of these "lugging" replies in these threads.
If you're riding w/ anybody who's been on Harleys for long, when they get to the edge of town, they upshift before they disappear.
"If it's bucking, you're lugging it" has always worked for me.
 

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The 21's work for me. good low and mid range tq. They don't run out of juice until over a 100 so perfect for my bike. I posted a dyno graph in the dyno section.
 

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adlerx said:
You are kidding right? If you shift at 3000, you must be constatnly lugging your motor. I am pretty sure this is not good for the engine over the long haul...
Actually no, I'm not kidding. I really do shift at 3000. The first 20,000 miles doesn't seem to have hurt it too bad.
 

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I recently had the TW21G cams installed in my TC88. I was going to do the 95" kit as well, but after much research and honest advice from the service rep at my dealership, I decided that the cams would give me much more bang for the buck, especially since I was not planning on doing any head work. The only other mods to the bike are an Arlen Ness Big Sucker breather, V&H slip-on mufflers and a PCIII.

Well, we finally got some decent weather today in the northeast and I was able to go out for a nice long spin. I'm extremely happy with the results. The increase in mid-range torque is very impressive. I found a deserted road where I could just let it rip from a stop and all I can say is WOW! Kind of felt like my HEMI Magnum. I'm just ADDICTED to torque.....
 

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yeah, but if you're shifting at 3000, that means you are riding at 2000 and that cartainly IS lugging the motor.....
 

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adlerx said:
yeah, but if you're shifting at 3000, that means you are riding at 2000 and that cartainly IS lugging the motor.....
If you look at most big twin dyno printouts they start at 2000 RPM. Not lugging. If the motor is set up correctly you should be well into the powerband by then. Now 1500, that's another story....Bill
 

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No personel experience but 26g might be a good cam. Its recommended for baggers. 21 may be not be enough for 95" though people do it. Lots of of people running 37s too. Comes on at higher rpms then 26.
 

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"yeah, but if you're shifting at 3000, that means you are riding at 2000 and that cartainly IS lugging the motor....."

I kind of think it depends on what the conditions are. If you are poking along down a flat road or short shifting to keep the revs down in a neighborhood it is not lugging and steady speed with no load no big deal. On the otherhand if you are going up hill in 5th 2000 aint good. 2000 aint good either if you are in 5th and decide you want to wack the throttle WFO to pass.
 

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Mtclassic said:
"yeah, but if you're shifting at 3000, that means you are riding at 2000 and that cartainly IS lugging the motor....."

I kind of think it depends on what the conditions are. If you are poking along down a flat road or short shifting to keep the revs down in a neighborhood it is not lugging and steady speed with no load no big deal. On the otherhand if you are going up hill in 5th 2000 aint good. 2000 aint good either if you are in 5th and decide you want to wack the throttle WFO to pass.
Amen brother...lugging has more to do with conditions than RPMs. It's not hard to tell when its lugging.

Folks need to stop looking at the tach and get a feel for their motors...
 

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Mtclassic said:
"yeah, but if you're shifting at 3000, that means you are riding at 2000 and that cartainly IS lugging the motor....."

I kind of think it depends on what the conditions are. If you are poking along down a flat road or short shifting to keep the revs down in a neighborhood it is not lugging and steady speed with no load no big deal. On the otherhand if you are going up hill in 5th 2000 aint good. 2000 aint good either if you are in 5th and decide you want to wack the throttle WFO to pass.
Geez, just when I thought I had figured out how to ride my motorcycle...
Perhaps someone can come up with a spreadsheet of required shift points for all gears, uphill vs, downhill, etc that I can screw to my gas tank and have in sight at all times. Do you think I should use chrome screws or stainless? Or should I just get a Ridley?
 

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Just had S&S 510g's, with BB put in my RK. Good even torque curve. I've heard that they are not as noisy as most gear cams, but I don't know that first hand.
 

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harleyboy63401 said:
I would like to get opinions on replacing the SE 203's in my bike. Bike is a 02' RKC with 40,000 miles. Stage 2 build done by the dealer upon delivery. Running V and H true duals, power commander, and SE air filter. No head work done!
I am not looking for any real improvement in performance but would like to rid myself of the potential for tensioner failure. So which gear driven cam would be my best bet? Will I have too dyno to retune the power commander?
Hope I have given enough info and look forward to replies on the subject.

Thanks!

harleyboy63401
The 203 will do what you are asking. It won't "rid you" of the potential of tensioner failure as it is chain driven but no big deal if you inspect it every now and then during service.
I second what Gray said if you are going to get away from the chains then the 510G will do the same as the SE 203 for you. Both are bolt-in cams with good low end power for a mild build.

Cheers and good luck with it.
 
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