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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone had any of these problems: 1. In turn the radiator cover and pipes scrap the asphalt or road? 2. Trying to get sterling silver touch up paint?

It seems that the bottom of my radiator cover (left side) keeps coming in contact with the asphalt in turns. My pipes and pegs have always been doing it (even when I switched to the 16 gauge). I know that the v-rod is not a sports bike but I do not turn that agressively. Any thoughts????

Even though the scratch is at the bottom of the radiator cover and is not tha tnoticable, I want to touch it up. I have called 10 HD dealers and no one can get me any sterling silver touch up paint. They are not even sure when it will be available. They say that it is restricted and some say that it might be available in December or January 2004???

Thanks, VRSC
 

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Increasing rear shock preload setting will help ground clearance in rear. In front, see how much fork tube you have extending above upper triple tree, most VRODs have about 1/4-3/8". I'd drop tubes flush and or go to a heavier fork oil. Somebody needs to come out with a high performance fork rebuild kit or springs for the VROD. What do you weigh anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I weight 230. I am set at 3 right now, 4 seemed to be to stiff. I took it in and camplained that my front forks felt like they were not doing that great of a job and the tech told me (after he tested it) that it was up to specs. I am taking it in for my 1000 mile service. What should I tell them to do??? I am going to let HD handle this. I am not to happy about the scratches on the radiator. The pipes and foot pegs I do not mind.????? Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks,
 

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I checked with HD, and it seems you can get frame paint @$7.10. But no Painted parts? My inside guy is checking with corporate in the AM. I agree with Polizzio, are you running a lowering kit? The MAX LEAN ANGLE
is 45deg before the Bank Angle Guage shuts the bike off! It looks like 47deg is max lean before you hit stuff. I don't think this baby was made to lean, but it sure does want to!
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No, running stock shocks. I do think the problem is in the forks. I think I am scraping in a turn with bumps, grooves or uneven pavement. Even when riding in a straight position and hit a bump, the front end seems to almost bottom out. I noticed when cleaning my bike, the front forks (very high up) had smudges on them. Meaning the forks were going into the sliders extremely low. Believe me I do not intensionally go over bumps, I avoid them. Again, any other suggestions?????
 

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My vrod had problems with the front forks leaking not long after I bought it. I also noticed the marks up high on the tubes and frequent bottoming out. I eventually took my bike into the shop to have the seals replaced under warranty and asked them to put in a heavier fork oil. The tech tried to talk me out of the oil, but I said I wanted it anyway. The frontend of my bike handles much better now and rarely bottoms out.
 

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VRSC,

I got the fork oil marks high up like everyone else. You need to go to heavier fork oil, until someone comes out with some heavier fork spring rates or something. Radiator scrapes are from the front end bottoming, just like you said, leaned over and hitting small irregularities. Like I stated above, at 230, you need every edge you can get, drop the tubes flush too.
 

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Built-in Safety

The V-Rod's max lean angle (45 degrees left and right) means that you start scraping stuff before you approach the traction limits of the D207 tires (on dry roads, of course..) Theoretically you should never start sliding as long as you don't get too greedy with the throttle coming out of a corner (or hit the brakes in a corner..) Once you start feeling the pegs dragging on the asphalt it means its time to back off a little on the aggressive cornering. The V-Rod is a great bike, but if all-out cornering is your thing, take a look at a CBR600.

One trick I learned to corner faster WITHOUT increasing lean angle is to turn quicker - try a harder countersteering input at the beginning of the turn, like you were "flicking" the bike. Even with the V-Rod's raked fork you can start a turn a lot quicker if you work on this skill. Its virtually "impossible" to break the front tire loose (again, provided you stay off the brakes) and it will let you go round a corner a lot faster while keeping the bike more upright.
 

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PROGRESSIVE SUSPENSION makes a spring kit #11-1525. These will definitely hold you up. That and a 15w Fork oil should help your situation.
If you can't find them,we sell them for $59
 

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You could try increasing the front spring preload by using pvc pipe, trying a 1/2" long piece and going from there. The PS springs are always better than stock though.

JMS
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks to everyone. I will do my 1000 mile service & see what some more v-rod techs think. I will make the fork tops flush and if that does not take care of it then I will switch tothen propable switch to PROGRESSIVE SUSPENSION.

I am still having some surging (shaking and sputtering) problems when idling at 10 mph. Does anyone have some suggestions???? I was told switching to the SE2 16 guage and ecm down load would solve this problem. Some local V-rodders do not have this problem.
 

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VRSC,

I personally found my 2002 dead stock ran very very lean, it used to have a slight surge at off idle, and at a steady 60-70 mph. I believe this is from the stock EPA compliant mapping, which HD techs told me was very lean in the mid range. I installed a PC3 right after bringing bike in for 1000 mile service, and with Dynojet's stock improved map, surging is a thing of the past. Their map is custom tailored to maintain 13.5 to 1 air/fuel mixture from off idle to WOT. And you can download a variety of maps for many different configurations, exhausts. I swear by the Powercommander 3R, and so do many others. No, I don't work for them....lol. So yes, I believe installing the 16 guage system and either HD's remap, or a PC3 will alleviate your surging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What does some of your HD service techs tell you about the PC3. Mine told me that it will void your warrenty, but could be taken off with no trace left. They told me that some dealerships over look it (or do not report it) being on there. I do not want to add it and then be on a riding trip, something go wrong with the bike, take it to a dealer and find out that my warrenty is voided.
 

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VRSC,

It is as you state, technically, I'm in violation of HD's warranty. If I do have a major warrantable problem, i will remove PC3 and go for service. I'm taking a chance yes. Go for the HD reprogram, let them do all the work, then you will have no worries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I do not have much knowledge about the PC3, I spoke to my tech briefly. Is it easy to install and remove myself? I personally like to pay someone to install things, so if things go wrong I can point blame. If I have HD install and map (which they will for $277.00), is it easily unplugable? Is $350.00 the going rate for the PC3 or is that too much??
 

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VRSC

You can get a PC3R delivered for $300-320. Installation is a breeze. But by your post above about having other's do it, if I was you, I'd just have your HD dealer install the SE ecm remap for SE2 pipes and either install the pipes yourself, or have them do that too. The pipes come with full instructions, really pretty simple. Then you have no warranty issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The SE2 pipes, SE air filter and ECM have been installed for 1 week. The surging reduced a bit but it is still bothersome. I am now loking for a total fix. I have 950 mile on the bike. Will the problem go away (or lessen) whenever I get more miles on it.??
 

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VRSC

At 950 miles, you must be getting ready for 1k service anyway. Bring it to your stealership and tell them of the surging problem you need remedied. Suggest they check throttle butterfly sycronization specifically, perhaps your bike is suffering from a lack of proper FI butterfly or linkage sync. I really do not see it improving with milage as at 950, your engine is basically seated, ring seal. Like I said previously, mine suffered from lean surging bone stock. It was very noticable to me cruising at 55-70 mph, impossible for bike to run dead steady, but some people cannot sense this condition. Before bike got to operating temp and closed loop mode, it was better actually, because cold start condition produces a richer mixture. Insist they remedy problem. My PC3 has completely eliminated any trace of lean surging at any speed, smooth as silk, and sounds like music at 6-8k rpm. My last tank yielded me 25mpg, my worst, due to the music of the 16 guage pipes and my right wrist. I've found at a roll of about 5-10 mph, dump the clutch at about 7k rpm, a little tire smoke and she just flat hauls butt!

PS: go look at Jeff's dyno run sheet in "VROD engine technical discussion" and specifically note air/fuel ratio below 4k, it runs 14+ to 1, rather lean, then gets richer 13.5 to 1 above 4k. On my bike, 60mph is about 3500 rpm in 5th.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the info. The tech at my dealership told me that the only fix is the PC3R. Yes, the same as you stated above-mine suffers from lean surging. With the Stage 1 kit, it has gotten alittle better but still bothers me. It is only surging in 1st at 10mph or less. Every other gear and speed are fine. If 25 mpg is what you get when you throttle the hell out of it, what are you getting when you behave? It seems no matter how I ride (no highway driving or obeying the speed limit 110-120, I get 31-33 mpg.
 

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vrsc:
I,m taking a stab here,but I think your running rich!The bike will buck if your on the rich side. I would bet that the butteryfly synk is out. Do you have any other mods? tank bag,windshield. I suspect your tech checked for trouble codes.
I have PC3R for $319.88 delivered. I don,t think this will fix your problem. I would have it running proper before installing anymore mod's
good luck: Steve
 
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