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I'm running the Street Sweepers (similar style to Rip Saws) on my hi-comp 95" Dyna. They're loud as hell but sound sweet since this motor is built to rock. They'd be a little mellower on a stocker. Be sure to run torque cones in them since you'll need the back pressure. No baffles in those babies and 2 1/4" ID. Run an open element AC and rejet up one size from stock, remove the welsch plug, adj. the idle mixture and you're off!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
2 questions.....what's a torque cone? I assume it's some kind of baffle so I don't lose as much low end torque? How does it install in the pipe?

Secondly, what's a welsch plug? I don't even have a guess for this one. Sorry if these are dumbass questions, but I'm still learning here. Thanks.
 

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Not dumbass questions at all!

Torque cones or anti reversion cones are installed between the header and the exhaust port at the flange. They do impart some restriction to improve low end torque and help keep the turbulance from licking back into the exhaust port and disturbing the combustion event. They also help prevent bluing of the headers.

The welsch plug is the soft metal plug found behind the fuel bowl on the underside of your Keihin CV (constant velocity) carb. Once partially drilled through on center with a 1/8" bit and removed by inserting a sheet metal screw and pulling it out with a pair of pliers you can access the idle mixture screw.

Adjustment of the idle mixture is not mentioned in the service manual since they don't want you messing with the carbs at all due to EPA regs.
Once all other enhancements are made including rejetting, warm the engine to operating temp. and at an idle, gently seat the idle mixture screw then back it out until the engine begins to stumble, turn it back in 1/4 to 1/2 turn and you're good. Usually 1 1/2 to 3 turns out from lightly seated is in the ballpark.

Hope this helps.
 

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Alright, Supersport. I got some more dumbass questions. You say the service manual doesn't mention messing with the welsch plug and getting to it requires drilling a hole into the carb. That seems Keihin doesn't want someone to get to that idle mixture. It that adjustment considered rejetting the carb.? If not, then what exactly is rejetting the carb.? What is the purpose of changing the idle mixture? Why do they(Keihin) make it so hard to get to? I understand that rejetting is needed after changing the exhaust from stock. More air out, requires more air in...including more gas to mix with the 'more air' coming in. Does going to a bigger carb. than stock resolve the problem of rejetting and increased airflow? I understand bigger isn't better. It depends on the motor of which it is being applied.

Sorry for the run of questions. I'm getting my first bike and Harley(2002 RK) and am trying to put all this together. Thanks for entertaining my ignorance.:D J.T.
 

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a "jet" in a carb is basically a nozzle, larger jet larger diameter nozzle, more fuel. a simple job for a DIY person.
buying a bigger carb MIGHT solve your problem, depends on situation. a $300+ carb vs. about $10 and an hour of my time, rejetting takes the cake. it all really depends how far you want to go with engine mods. my advice is think about where you want your bike to be, even simply a little faster or scary f'n fast, then find a local shop or two (not dealers) and go in and talk to the people there. not saying that because your questions aren't valid but because real time responses can get you on your way to the mods your looking for a whole lot faster then a forum can. good luck!
 

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Thanks for the info. I am just testing the water. I'm just trying to get as much information as possible. I don't want to walk into a shop or dealership and put my foot in my mouth. While they look at me and think, "here's a sucker, with a paycheck."
I want something more than stock. Honestly, I can't see building something scary f'n fast with just bolt-on applications and without tearing into the engine. Getting 600+lbs. moving fast is no small feat. Plus, I plan to piece it together. I've just read that changing the exhaust requires more gas and air. I just don't want to waste money. Thanks for the comments. J.T.
 

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fearnot69,
Where is your transition point going to be? Will you exit the service in Germany or do your final out here in the States?
 

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so far every shop except one has been very helpful to me without ever asking for a dime in return, infact they have saved me tons with free advice. test the waters they know for the most part if they answer what we consider to be "stupid questions" while still being resprctful when it does come time for you to spend ypur money they've increased the chances its at their shop.
 

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Hey Fearnot,

Sorry for the delay in reply. Been pretty busy as of late.

As for idle speed adj. all you're doing there is fine tuning the fuel air mixture of the idle circuit. With engine warm wind out the screw from lightly seated until the engine stumbles, then run it back in 1/4 turn. Be careful not to bottom the screw so hard as to destroy the seat.

No the E.P.A. doesn't want you messing with these carbs since performance enhancements usually mean more unburned hydrocarbons being released into the air. The federal gov't. doesn't give a rats a$$ if our rides run right. Out of the box, my '99 FXDX ran like sh!t so everyone told me to run a Mikuni at $300. After intake and exhaust enhancements it ran even worse. I decided to rejet, radius and polish the face of the slide and adj. the idle mixture. With no previuos experience with this style of carb, I figured worst case scenario, I'd fu(k up the carb and pop for the Mikuni after all. Viola, it ran 90% better and stayed that way for a couple of riding seasons until I threw about 4 grand at the motor and made it the proverbial Screamin' Night Hog. Still running a modified Keihin CV, albeit a little more radically than before.

Going with a bigger carb isn't necessarily the answer since most new carbs need rejetting to be tuned to thier particular application. Smaller CFM carbs will give you better throttle response. Larger bore venturies will perform better at top end. Middle of the road stuff is 42 mm. as compared to the stock 39 mm and the larger bore 44 mm CV or 45 mm Mikuni.

All in all you seem to have a pretty good handle on what to do. Check out www.nightrider.com for some good CV tuning input and run an Arlen Ness Big Sucker AC along with a set of good performance slip-on mufflers such as Cycle Shacks. You'll gain around 10 horses from these relatively inexpensive mods.

Good luck and have fun.
 

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Thanks Supersport. I was advised to upgrade to a StageI and exhaust. I've looked at a few slip-ons and total exhaust systems. Slip-ons are cheaper of course and seem just as good as a total exhaust system. I don't intend to tear into the engine....just yet. Sounds like the 'rejetting' the stock carb. with exhaust upgrades. I don't want a f'n fast bike yet. I just want something more than stock with a 'I just arrived sound'. I don't really want to pull wheelies with my RoadKing!!

Cox9000- I plan on getting out here in Germany and land as close to home as possible. I have to ETS here, because I don't have enough time on my enlistment to PCS. Thanks. J.T.
 

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fearnot69,
Do you have any buddies over at Finance & Transportation? I would suggest finding out all that you can NOW, concerning your final out pay, all your entitlements, how to file claims & travel vouchers, shipping................anyway, all that you can. The time you have left will go by fast and there is a lot you have to prepare for.
Looks like you and I both are learning tons of new stuff.
Later!
 

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Fearnot69,

Take a gander at the Big Sucker by Arlen Ness. It is a really sanitary AC with internal head breathers and O rings at the banjo fittings. The Screamin' Eagle head breather manifold is alright but has a tendency to leak a little oil at the banjo fitting.

I'm currently running an SE head breather that's shimmed out to work with a black powdercoated KuryAkyn Hypercharger. Looks hot but the breather does seep a little oil at the front fitting.

Later
 

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SuperSport, I just looked at the Big Sucker. Thanks for the info. Not very attractive( I would have used the pretty, instead of attractive, if I didn't feel that I would get burned.)
I like the look of the Hypercharger, but why does it seap oil? Is there some type of circulation of oil there? Sorry for the stupidity, but I had to ask. Some of this is a bit overwhelming. I just want to know, so I know what I am doing and what I want out of my bike. Thanks for the understanding and patience. J.T.
 

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Also, SuperSport. Do you have any suggestions on exhaust. Can I use the stock pipes, with a good set of slip-ons? Do you really get that much performance out of a 'bolt on' piece of equipment? Do you have a suggestion for a slip-on, for a RK, that gives you more ooph and a louder sound? I want something louder than stock, but I don't want to rob myself of power.( Just like every one else out there.:D) Thanks again. J.T.
 

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Fearnot,

I ran the Samson Rolled Thunders for about 6 mos. Slip on mufflers, easy to install and great sound. Reasonably priced around $350.00. This is probably what your looking for, very popular with most "normal" RoadKing owners.

My problem was that I wanted some obnoxiously loud straight pipe, so I went with V/H Longshots w/o baffles. Yes, I am that guy that flys past you at 80mph while you are in the car on the cell phone and the other person on the line says "What in the hell is that noise in the background"
 

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Fearnot,

The oil seepage in my case is from the front head breather bolt that is shimmed out with brass washers so the shoulder of the bolt doesn't bottom on the AC bracket. What I've got are too many mating surfaces to get a good seal at the breather bolt to head interface. The mess is minimal, just need to pull a rag through behind the AC every couple of weeks to remove the oil from the chrome bracket and banjo fitting. I suppose if I felt like tearing the AC along with the breather back off the engine I could eliminate the leak altogether by using 2 thicker copper washers rather than the 4 brass ones but I dont like to unnecessarily run steel bolts in and out of expensive trick aluminum heads. If I do tear into it I will probably opt for the Big Sucker and just run an H-D accessories AC trim as a cover exposing the entire AC element since the Hypercharger is a little small for my engines displacement.

As for the exhaust, yes I would reccomend a performance slip-on such as something from the P&A catalog along the lines of Screamin' Eagle one piece performance mufflers PN 64903-99 slash down or 64924-99 slash up. Also check out Cycle Shack for a similar set. They may be cheaper!

With all mods done, intake, exhaust and rejet you will gain around 10 horses! This is your cheapest upgrade. If you want more, expect to lay out around $100 per horsepower.
 

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Thanks, gentlemen. Supersport, with the mods of intake, exhaust and rejet, about how much are you talking? I understand different prices for exhaust and labor, but in what ballpark are you talking?
dprice, do you loose performance with the baffles out of the V&H exhaust? If I'm not mistaken, are the long shots ran down the side of the bike? You have a RoadKing, right? I am positive I've seen your bike on the forum.(Too lazy to search for it again.) I couldn't get a good look at the look of the pipes running down the side. Any problems with clearance, passanger, or rider problems? I like the look of the longshots, but I thought you would have to have an exhaust that runs out the back, like the stock. Sorry, but new to the game.(Excuse for all the questions) I just thought an exhaust that ran down the side wouldn't work, fit, or whatever. Thanks for the information. You guys have been very helpful!! J.T.
 

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You'd clean up if you did the stage one mods yourself. If you can turn a wrench in the least little bit, you can do it! Depending on the components selected your prices will vary accordingly. The SE mufflers I mentioned in my previous post are $289.95. The free-flow AC will be around $150.00 to $200.00 depending on what you choose. The jets are only $4.00 to $5.00 a piece. You should be able to complete the task in an afternoon, say 2 to 4 hours time.

If you choose to have the dealership do the work expect to shell out around $800.00+ for the parts and labor.
 

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Thanks Supersport. Most everything wouldn't be a problem. The only thing I would worry about would be putting in the new jets. Would this be outlined in a manuel? I suppose I could do an internet search to find a installment article. I've just never torn into a carb. before. I'm still doing my research on replacement parts, but I'm sure the Stage I will be my starting point. Oh, I was wondering what AC stands for. I know what it is, a better breather box, like a air filter/cover for a car. Right? Thanks for the info. and patients.
Also, in reference to the Hypercharger. I like the looks of them. Would it be appropriate to run with the stock carb. after rejetting? J.T.
 
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