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ANOTHER DAMN YANKEE
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Very interested in both, but was just wondering which is better. Which one will flow more air or are they the same. Is there any diffrence between the two other that looks? I have a 01 fxsti which would be the best for my application?%[email protected]
 

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sportyguy69 said:
Very interested in both, but was just wondering which is better. Which one will flow more air or are they the same. Is there any diffrence between the two other that looks? I have a 01 fxsti which would be the best for my application?%[email protected]
Not sure exactly what the flow rates are, but I do know that the S&S will work quite with large displacement racing engines. It's the one air cleaner that I always end up going back to after trying others. Just try not to get caught up in the Hypercharger "hype". The faster you go on the bike, the less effecient it is.

Personally... I have always tried to steer clear of SE parts. I just don't like giving more money to the dealerships than I have to. They get enough of it when I buy the bike itself. For parts, I'd rather do my part to keep the smaller, privately-owned companies in business. But that's me..... ;)
 

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XLIII
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One of the Dyno guys should chime in here.
The Paper SE flows a little more (per Doc) than the K&N SE, but how does the foam S&S stack up against that? I'd like to know, too...
 

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MegaGlide said:
One of the Dyno guys should chime in here.
The Paper SE flows a little more (per Doc) than the K&N SE, but how does the foam S&S stack up against that? I'd like to know, too...
No matter which air cleaner is used, a K&N filter is the best flowing filter there is. That's been proven many times. I would never use the filter that the S&S A/C comes with, unless it's for a basically stock bike. I use nothing but K&N oil filters, too.
 

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ANOTHER DAMN YANKEE
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142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I have SE 2 slip-ons that came with the bike when I bought it. Has the stock air cleaner and no download. I noticed under the heatshields that the pipes are kinda blue. I am looking to upgrade the air filter assy and get a download to make the bike run the way it was meant to. The bike is pretty much all stock. I am not looking to do much more than exhuast and a/c with download. Just dont want to waste money buying junk parts to find out later, this is what I should have bought. Anyone have any ideas?
 

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sportyguy69 said:
Well I have SE 2 slip-ons that came with the bike when I bought it. Has the stock air cleaner and no download. I noticed under the heatshields that the pipes are kinda blue. I am looking to upgrade the air filter assy and get a download to make the bike run the way it was meant to. The bike is pretty much all stock. I am not looking to do much more than exhuast and a/c with download. Just dont want to waste money buying junk parts to find out later, this is what I should have bought. Anyone have any ideas?
OK, this is a long one... guess I'm pretty bored tonight. :) It's 2 degrees outside so I'm in hibernation mode. I can't say that I'm 100% correct in my suggestions, but after wrenching on Harleys for about 25 years, I am just passing on what I have learned the hard way. Take it or leave it... it's your choice. ;)

The "heatshields" are blue????? That's odd. Bluing of the pipes is caused by an improper air/fuel ratio. A good dyno tune will fix that. If the heatshields are blue, then that engine was getting HOT!!!! Most likely running too lean, which is actually normal for a stock machine. A properly tuned engine won't discolor the pipes at all. Unfortunately, no matter what you do, your pipes WILL discolor after a while. That's why most are sold with headshields or have double walls. I don't worry about it... a little coloring of the pipes shows that I actually RIDE my bikes. :D

If you are only changing the air cleaner and exhaust with HD or SE parts, then a download should work ok. You would still be well adviced to put the bike on a dyno asap. The downloads will get the tuning close, but every bike performs in a slightly different way, even from the factory, and the downloads aren't always as close as they could be. You may be losing up to 10% of your potential torque and HP without dyno tuning it. I get mine tuned every spring and it has always ran great the rest of the year. I change the plugs right before the run, and don't have to touch them again until the next year's run. NOTE: Wait until you have over 1500 miles on your engine before putting it on the dyno. Your engine won't be fully broken in until then, and therefor won't be capable of putting out the most power.

As for other ideas.... I know what you mean about not wanting junk parts. There are many people in these forums who can give you some advice on what works and what doesn't. Personally, I try to stay away from MoCo parts, preferring to go to the aftermarket. A lot of the HD/SE parts are imported crap. There's a better variety of aftermarket parts out there and the prices are usually very reasonable (meaning a lot less than the MoCo) for what you get. OK, I'll get off my soapbox and get back to the point.... :)

Anyway, you are on the right track for unleashing your bikes potential. There are a few areas that need to be "fixed" on any stock Harley. Thanks to the govenment's restrictions, a stock Harley is only putting out a fraction of it's potential capabilities.

First, the induction system. The stock air box sucks (or should I say "doesn't suck enough") LOL! The exhaust is also very, very restrictive. From all the testing I've done over the years, I can say without a doubt that for the best street performance, a 2-1 exhaust is the best way to go. There are a couple 2-2 systems that come close in performance, the Bartels system, the Python III, and the V&H Straightshots. That's about it.... the Cycle Shack slip-ons are ok, but are far from optimum.

That brings up the other thing that most newer HD owners don't realize. TORQUE is much more important than horsepower on a Harley! Your engine needs torque to get that HP to the ground. I don't even think about HP when building an engine. I try to get the most torque over the broadest rpm range. A 2-1 exhaust, as well as a cam with low duration, will keep the powerband in the rpm range that you ride in the most.... 1500-4000 rpm. Drag pipes will KILL your torque, but are great for high HP at high engine speeds. They were designed for drag racing, hence the name "drag pipes". They suck for a street bike.

More about the cam (or cams).... this is another area that needs attention if you want to get decent performance from your bike. You want the highest lift that you can use without headwork, and the shortest duration to keep the torque in the low and mid range. There are several cams on the market that perform about the same, since their numbers are very close to one another. Look for duration numbers below 240 degrees. The longer the duration, the later in the rpm range the torque will come on.

And last, (not really, but close enough for now), is the ignition system. The stock system is OK, but not the best. There are several models out there that you can program for the best performance. I personally like the Dyna 2000i. I designed my own advance curve to take advantage of my other mods. Crane also makes a good system. I haven't tried the newer SE systems, but have heard good things about them. I had one on my Dyna when I bought it, but like the 2000i a lot more.

There are other things to do with the newer models like your's but I'm not very familiar with EFI, the Power Commander or other newer tuning aids. I've never owned anything newer than a 1995 EVO, but have done some limited work on the Twinkies. Either way, the things I suggested above apply to every engine model.

Hope this helps. Feel free to ask more questions. There are several experienced folks here who can give you some great input.

This should get you started, and you can make the changes one at a time, except for the intake and exhaust.. they should be done together. Naturally, if you have more air coming IN, then you need to have more air moving OUT. The cams will help with this, too.

Whew.... that's enough for now. I swear that the turbine engines I work on are easier to tweak than the basic 4-stroke engine motorcycle engine. LOL!

The journey has begun! Have fun! ~!Awesome!
 
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