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i just bought an s&s super b does anyone have any experience with this carb.. is it good for an iron head sport(slightly mod.) easy to adj.? piece of crap? any info??
s&s super "b" opinions..
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182 Posts
That's all I've ever run on my shovelheads (shovels and pans is all I've ever had). There are 2 jets, easy access, and I like the Thunder Jet mod.
It allows you to run a smaller main jet, which gives you a little bit better transition thru out the throttle. They do stick out further.
Most people I know are now running the E, but I like old stuff;
I've had this old carb for about 10 years, and have had it redone 2 times.
It allows you to run a smaller main jet, which gives you a little bit better transition thru out the throttle. They do stick out further.
Most people I know are now running the E, but I like old stuff;
I've had this old carb for about 10 years, and have had it redone 2 times.
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29 Posts
just what i was hoping to hear.. i was just looking at the thunder jet. for the price it can't be beat.. now i just need to find what jets i should start with for a mild sport(cams open exhaust ignition) thanks for the help
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182 Posts
I did not setup the thunderjet, so I don't even know how/why/if it can be adjusted. But as far as the jets when you do have the Thunderjet; If
you're under say 93 cubes, start with a pilot from the 30,31, or 32 range;
and from a 72 to a 76 Main. I think the Mains only come in "even" numbers. With the Thunderjet you shouldn't need to worry about being to lean on the very top end.
you're under say 93 cubes, start with a pilot from the 30,31, or 32 range;
and from a 72 to a 76 Main. I think the Mains only come in "even" numbers. With the Thunderjet you shouldn't need to worry about being to lean on the very top end.
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29 Posts
do you happen to know anyone who prints a book on the s&s about mods.and building??
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182 Posts
Not sure what the website name is, but they have excellent info, and 800 number for tech questions.
I have been running the same super b for 16 years. It is easy to tune, tolerant of engine modifications and pretty bullet proof. I am running it on a 79 sporty with a .03 over bore and fat head gaskets. One thing you will have to learn is to roll on the throttle. If you snap it open the engine will spit because there is no accellerator pump. With a little practice you can accelerate as fast as a pump equiped carb.
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29 Posts
thanks for all , everyone.. i don't know if i am going to stick with this carb after all. might wind up selling it to help offset the price of a new carb.. just don't know if it's going to work out with my app.. hot cams, headwork, might go excelllerator pump.
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60 Posts
I have the Super "B" on my 75 Ironhead. I'm actually in the process of building the bike to my standards now. My Super "B" has an accelerator pump added to it. They sell a Kit that simply replaces the bowl with a new one that has an accelerator pump built in. Hope this helps some. I love the Super B the bike has great throttle response as it was before (mainly stock, except .030 over, pipes and air filter). I'm going with Andrews "Y" grind cams, Dual plugs, Pocket porting, & Single fire electronic ignition.
Whats this Thunderjet mod consist of?
Whats this Thunderjet mod consist of?
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240 Posts
I ran a super "B" on my shovel from '82 up until about 5 years ago when I changed to the super "E". Frankly, I wish I would have kept the old "B". The "E" makes the bike harder to start (kick or the button), and fouls plugs on a regular basis. It took me a day to dial in the super "B", but I still haven't hit on the sweet spot for the "E".
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1 Posts
Help?
Would u happen to know what jets would I want to run on a Super B Carb for an '84 1000 Ironhead Sportster?
Would u happen to know what jets would I want to run on a Super B Carb for an '84 1000 Ironhead Sportster?
Don is the "man". A 32 intermediate should work in most all cases. The stock super B , in the 90's, came with a 72 main stock. I know this because that's when I bought mine.
The intermediate will have the greatest affect (including mpg) if you run the motor to lean or rich. If you roll on the throttle while crusing at 35mph in 3rd and it misses/backfires, then go up one intermediate size. You want to go down until the engine rolls on smoothly without complaining. In my shovel, the motor will miss if the intermediate is anything smaller than a 32.
The high speed jet creates less noticeable effects. Wheter it's correct or not will determine rpm/speed in high rpms (>3500). In my bike, changing the high speed jet doesn't cause backfires or misses to let you know it doesn't like the change.
The intermediate will have the greatest affect (including mpg) if you run the motor to lean or rich. If you roll on the throttle while crusing at 35mph in 3rd and it misses/backfires, then go up one intermediate size. You want to go down until the engine rolls on smoothly without complaining. In my shovel, the motor will miss if the intermediate is anything smaller than a 32.
The high speed jet creates less noticeable effects. Wheter it's correct or not will determine rpm/speed in high rpms (>3500). In my bike, changing the high speed jet doesn't cause backfires or misses to let you know it doesn't like the change.
PeterPan3
My experience with the B carb is the body is made of real soft aluminum and in no time the butterfly shaft starts leaking air. You can buy the repair kit for this. I had this carb on my 63 pan and I couldn't get it to start well. I put it on my 76 shovel and it's an ok carb but nothing to get exited about.
My experience with the B carb is the body is made of real soft aluminum and in no time the butterfly shaft starts leaking air. You can buy the repair kit for this. I had this carb on my 63 pan and I couldn't get it to start well. I put it on my 76 shovel and it's an ok carb but nothing to get exited about.
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20 Posts
S&S - 'B' vs 'E'
Just in my case, I’ve run a ‘B’ in my ’84 Shovel FLH up to earlier this year. I have to say it has been a huge improvement in all aspects.
I had to frequently mess with the mixture on the ‘B’, I had to work my ass off turning her over from 40 degrees down and the low-end of each gear was lousy.
I never really knew the difference until the ‘E’ went on. She turns over all the time, (a few days ago it was 20 degrees with no problem), and the ride is much smoother along with a much better low-end.
I didn’t know what I was missing until I switched.
Night and day.
And I haven’t had to mess with setting the 'E' at all since day one.
Less grief, less worry, less tweaking and being able to ride as long as there’s no ice equals a happy Western New Yorker.
Good luck with your choice. The S&S website is quite informative and everything is in the PDF format and printing out the manuals / tech info is a breeze.
MM
Just in my case, I’ve run a ‘B’ in my ’84 Shovel FLH up to earlier this year. I have to say it has been a huge improvement in all aspects.
I had to frequently mess with the mixture on the ‘B’, I had to work my ass off turning her over from 40 degrees down and the low-end of each gear was lousy.
I never really knew the difference until the ‘E’ went on. She turns over all the time, (a few days ago it was 20 degrees with no problem), and the ride is much smoother along with a much better low-end.
I didn’t know what I was missing until I switched.
Night and day.
And I haven’t had to mess with setting the 'E' at all since day one.
Less grief, less worry, less tweaking and being able to ride as long as there’s no ice equals a happy Western New Yorker.
Good luck with your choice. The S&S website is quite informative and everything is in the PDF format and printing out the manuals / tech info is a breeze.
MM
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