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S&S 124 TC carb and cam

7043 Views 11 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  HDWRENCH
Looking for some recomendations for a carb and cam set up for my 124 twin cam project. So far I had the heads done by cycle rama and the exhaust from RB racing. The motor came with S&S 640 cams, but I want some more power. I have looked at some of the different carbs available but everyone thinks thiers is the best. Any sugestions? The motor is going in a dyna chasis.
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This is what my S&S 124" with stock 640 cams, SE 51 CV, DTT88A and Rinehart True Duals with 2.5" baffles makes. It's in a 2004 RKC. This is a5th gear run with AC on.

I'm very happy with the carb. If you want to different cams perhaps Cycle Rama would be best to make a recommendation as they did the heads.
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Kari and I are running almost identical motors except for ignition, DTT Vs IST, Carb CV51 Vs Wood 505 (Didn't want to deal with trying to dial in Pilot Jet and Needle) and exhaust, Rinehart TD Vs SuperTrapp Supermeg 2-1. Also Kari may benefit some from using 1" SnS spacer machined to except CV51 Vs my using just SnS manifold machined to accept the same carb. My + is about 3/4" more room to get my right foot on and keep it on floorboard without my knee dragging in airstream.

Expect exhaust choice to hurt top end but it's sure quieter :thumbsup:, along with IST ignition hurting it some too. Trying to get it borken in right now but seat of pants with IST ignition Guardian Software limit of 3900 rpm for first 8 hrs of operation says about all to expect out of this almost Box Stock 124 is around 124 HP and 130-134 TQ. This makes my HP almost 20 less than Kari Engine is making. Engine's sweet spot where it starts pulling hard in 5th gear is 3000 rpm and 2500 to 2700 in 1st -4th with the benefit of better mechanical advange of gearing. Gearing is 28/37 primary and 23/51 secondary. 6th gear rpm at 80 MPH is just shy of 3100 and when I tested my cruise control it is able to handle most of the terrain around here without hearing exhaust note change or engine straining indicating a need to down shift. Could run 70 in 6th on flat land but more than likly just run 5th as the engine is in it's sweet spot again in that gear.

If I were going after pure peak power but with what I believe to be some sacrifice in streetability, I would use a 48 Mikuni to get that few extra ponies. All out dyno queen SnS D. Another aera Kari and I may benefit from using CV51 is fuel standoff. This seem to be a problem for some using the Mikuni. Don't know about Kari but you don't smell raw fuel at idle and my air filter has yet to get wet from it when riding in my limited rpm range.
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Mike at Latus Motors H/D has done a lot of 124" builds and is very knowledgeable.
Kari the Finn said:
This is what my S&S 124" with stock 640 cams, SE 51 CV, DTT88A and Rinehart True Duals with 2.5" baffles makes. It's in a 2004 RKC. This is a5th gear run with AC on.

Awesome! That's what I'm talkinbout!:clap: I'd love to ride that bike! Torque Monster!:clap:
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How would you compare the Mikuni 48 to the woods 505? Also what ignition do you you reccomend the DTT or Dyna? What coils are you guys running. Any other sugestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks
I have no experiences of Mikuni or Wood's modifications on51 CV but I believe all three are good choices. Mine is a plain road bike so I chose CV over Mikuni despite they cost about the same. If you pick the CV you will need to make/buy an adapter for it.

I consulted Ken at www.blackhillscustomparts.com on my build and he recommended DTT. I got mine from him along with a custom map. Mine has never pinged with 98 octane unleaded (about the same as US 93 or 94) and works like a dream. I got the full DTT kit ie. ignition, coil and leads.

We shot a short clip last summer - I have a bad habit of showing it to anyone who is considering big block engines...:laugh:

Fly by video
here is my 124 with efi. The carb thing is going to be a personal thing, I have used S&S D 48, 51. For all round good drivablity the woods 505 would be my choice. I have used and sold several for big inch builds where we did not get the good drivablity. A "D" will give you all out perfromance after you add 3 thunder jets two external air bleeds and a stack but it will lack in having good manners for street use. EFI like mine gives me the best of both I have great power and it runs great in traffic two up you name it.
That dyno gragh is great. This motor that Im building came as a VFI, and I was going to put it in my 2004 Roadglide. But last night I bought a 2000 Dyna that is a carb. Figured why not have the best of both worlds. I called woods today about his 505 king, he didnt have much to say and when I asked him about how it compared to the Mikuni 48 (Rivera) he said there was not much difference unless I would be traveling to high altitude. The other thing he said was that his carb was about twice as much in cost. Im looking to get between 140-150 horse and I do you a great dyno tuner locally.
I sell a fair amount of the 48's as well they do work great provided you are aware of RPM and gear selection, where as the 51 with a cv is more forgiving.
What do you mean by RPM an gear selection. I do know when we did a 95" build with a 45 mikuni there was a lean condition at freeway cuising speed, but my tuner sands the needle to take care of it. What kind of compression are you running to get those kind of numbers. Also have you played with primary gearing?
Well with a 124 that is built right you are going to have a large cam a carb like the 48 that you can snap it open at a low rpm where the engine is not happy running at. Where the cv is more forgiving the psi differential will keepthe velocity up and the motor will pull through not so with a 48. YOU have to make sure the engine is in the correct gear or rpm range when you snap the throttle open. Again this is when you build a 124 stout. I fail to see the reason to build a 124 and then run it on low compression and a small cam??? I run 12.6 on pump gas here inthe az heat without problems. I run a chain drive and open primary, so yes my gearing is not stock ,..any 124 that is built right will destroy stock primary parts and snap belts like tooth picks.
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