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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So in part of a deal I got a new to me V111 that will be finding it’s home in my 91 fxr. While I have it out on the stand I’m going through a couple things snd just giving a small “once over” but not really tearing into it since it supposedly ran very well. So far the real bitch has been its the polished version and was not maintained at all so I have been trying to polish it back up a bit. Should have just rattle canned the dam thing or find someone who knows what they are doing snd willing to spend the tweaker time it takes to do it right haha

It came with a mikuni 45 I think, def bigger than my 42, and crane hi-4 ignition.

I opened up the cam chest, which meant the top rockers and lifter blocks came out as well since the rods don’t collapse enough to clear. So new gaskets coming all around there. I found it has the 585 cam in it which I was surprised since the old 113s had 600 and according the S&S the valve springs only rated to 585 lift so no other option at this point should I want “more” later. It has the Reed valve breather which I have 0 experience with and opinions seem to be all over the place on that.

One thing I noticed is that the rear cylinder head has the standard breather hose that normally goes to the air cleaner and I will be venting externally. But the front cylinder only has a smaller vacuum hose that attached to the rear of the carb.
Do these motors only vent the rear cylinder and not both or is that vacuum pulling the oil out of the front back into the intake?
I’m not a fan of any oil going back into the intake and usually vent all bikes to atmosphere immediately.
 

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S&S came up with a funky vent system for its 4-⅛" bore engines (TC and Evo style). From S&S, one head had a big hose that connected to the air cleaner, the other head had a smaller hose that connected to the intake manifold. One of the lines had a small one-way valve in it. This is all to get around a patent from harley on the head vent system.

It is not a bad system but there are several ways to improve it. One way is to machine the vent slot in the S&S heads, the same way as oem harley TC heads (even on the Evo 111 engine, same/same). This will allow the heads to vent out of the breather bolt holes the same as factory heads. No need to discuss that anymore, lots of know ways to vent heads.

The other way to improve these heads is to remove the front head, remove the small hose fitting and then drill and tap for the 5/16 hose fitting used on the rear head. This will allow a 5/15 hose to be connected to each head for venting purposes. The TC124 in my Red/White For is setup tis way. I run each hose to a fitting on a catch can. Works very well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yea venting is dumb in my opinion. I don’t want to open it up yet so it sounds like my only option is to run the rear cylinder larger line (actual breather) to the ground and keep the smaller “vacuum” hose ok the front cylinder hooked to the vacuum port on the back of the mikuni. Not a fan
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I had everything together and running. Took a little research to figure out oil line rooting since the pickups on the S&S pump are different than OE. But got it done.

One thing I didn’t know to do was to bleed the oil system. By just filling the oil bag I created an air pocket in the supply line to the pump. I had to remove both top caps on the pump and pull the check ball. After a few seconds it filled up the pump snd it was a mad dash to put the caps back on while oil kept coming out.

While running I thought something was wrong as I noticed the oil cap was now under suction and it wasnt before. I had a friend come over and check it out as I couldn’t figure out what I did wrong. Then he explained that having the front cylinder head hooked to the carb vacuum port, per S&S design, it creates a positive crankcase system and should be normal
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I verified the oil was flowing correctly by running the bike with the oil filter off since my filter is under the trans. Oil pressure seemed low at 30-40, can’t remember which but thought it’d be higher with the S&S pump.

went on a test ride and about three miles from the house it sputtered off, like it was running on one cylinder at first then just died. Couldn’t get it started up again so had to tow it home.

All the coil and plug wires were good, so popped the pushrod tubes off and 3 of the pushrods had fully collapsed. I know I locked them down! Must not have locked it down enough? Gonna readjust them again and maybe add a drop of blue loctite on the rod threads to make sure they hold
 

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....3 of the pushrods had fully collapsed. I know I locked them down! Must not have locked it down enough? ....
That makes me smile a little. Reminds me of my buddy (RIP 2020) the original owner of my current ride.

I was helping him work on his bike once. I couldn't translate exactly about tightening the pushrods. When he went for a test ride around the block, same thing happened to him. After a while, he came limping back running on only one cylinder. Found 2 loose pushrods. Readjusted and jammed the jam nuts. all was well. They can take it.

Today, just about the entire valve train in the motor has been replaced. Same pushrods have been in there since 2001. One thing for sure. These motors don't run too well if the valves don't open and close.

I would be kind of leery of putting any loctite on the nuts. But that's just me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I am man enough to admit my mistakes so add another one to the “stop rushing to make a run or you’ll make a dumb ass mistake” list.

There are two different “styles” of pushrods. One style like the SE or S&S quickie rods you lock the jam nut up, which I did.
The style I have you run the jam nut down and lock against the adjuster end on the bottom section! My jam nuts were plenty tight and locked in against the top tube section, which did absolutely squat against keeping the bottom adjuster end from threading back up and shortening the rods.

I’m my own worst enemy sometimes!

I took it out and re jetted and adjusted the carb. She seems to pull very well now.

oil pressure still seems low to me at maybe 15-20 at 3000 rpm and around 6-10 at idle.
it has the S&S HVHP pump so I thought it would be more ?

going To re route the breather tube from the rear cylinder too since I was told the breather lines should be above the port in the head. I have it looping back up over the rear rocker box, then across the top of the oil bag and down the back side of the battery box. There wasn’t enough gap between the mikuni snd cylinders to fit the 3/8 hose without touching the motor so I came up with that crazy routing job ha

also hear a whining sound from the left side more but doesn’t sound like primary, almost sounds Like it comes from the top of the barrels or rockers area.
 

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also hear a whining sound from the left side more but doesn’t sound like primary, almost sounds Like it comes from the top of the barrels or rockers area.
How was the backlash on the cam gears? Funny how sound can move around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It was right around 0.011 or .012 which I think spec I read was up to .015
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Another thing I just found odd. The mechanical oil pressure gauge i have was reading about 8-9psi while the bike was off and hasn’t run today.

Thinking maybe the gauge was just bad I started to unscrew it from the case and after about 2 flats it went to 0 so it actually had pressure in the crankcase.
What would cause that?
 

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Maybe the reed valve breathers are making the noise. I've never had to mess with those either.

Is your gauge one of those plumbed right on top of the pump? Did you reinstall the gauge and crank the motor to see if the residual pressure came back?

I don't know if it would make a difference, but could you have a Twin Cam filter with the anti-drain back valve installed? I know if you put an Evo filter on a TC, you'll get a long oil pressure light at start up, since Evos don't use one and it could take what seems like a lot of time for the light to go out. I'm trying to remember Evo oil routing. I know TCs pump oil by the sender on the way to the filter first, before going on to the the rest of the engine. Doesn't Evo oil get filtered after going through the motor on the way back to the tank? This probably doesn't have anything to do with the issue. Just thinking out loud.

Another thing is sometime those little gauges will need to be burped. There might be a little rubber plug on the side of the gauge body. Have to pry it out to release internal pressure. Oh yeah, don't forget to put it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I’ve read of the reed valve noise being at certain instances not all the time like a rotating mass making sound, so not sure but don’t think it would be that.

The gauge is threaded into the case port right behind rear cylinder lifer block. The bike it came from had the oil pressure sensor there but I don’t have dummy lights so ran the gauge directly into the port instead of the “Y” fitting that allows both. The gauge itself worked fine on the evo pulled it off of.
Don’t know of a way of verifying the filter looking at it but it’s the same one that was running with the 91 evo. I just swapped motors, everything else stayed the same.

yea Evos filter oil on the return side

I’ll see if I can run it tomorrow when I get back and see if pressure stays after the motor stops running, but I don’t see how there would be pressure in there if there’s the oil vent line out the side of the case above the oil pump that goes to the front most nipple on the left side of the oil bag
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It might be the gauge loosing its true zero? Hell I don’t know. It moves when I crank it over then returned here. I pulled the rubber plug and oil came out immediately, probably should have been a little more prepared for that.

I’ll see if I can remember my YouTube log in to make a video to share here of it running to hear that whine

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok took some vids of the noise it’s making. Three short bids in total, one of each side and one revving. Remember motor is new to me so not sure if it’s always made this noise or what.

S&S V111 Whinnying Noise part 1
 
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