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Discussion Starter #1
i would like to do this kit.i have an 03 dyna low rider.with forcewinder xr,v&h short shot staggs with big city t's in them, and ride 50/50 2-up. i shift at just before the red line bumps when i'm having fun.usually 3-5 times in a week.give or take.i mean i don't pound it every chance i get,just when it moves me.yeah...who am i kidding.

anywho. i was wondering what the cc is with these heads and pistons the s/e cat. doesn't say.i know its prolly around 10.5:1. i was wondering if the 211 are going to come on soon enough.like 18-2200 rpms.i want it to go to 6000rpms wich is why i chose this combo. i know i need to go to gear drives and i will if money allows me.if not then next year (winter 07) i have that done. i know i should just be alittle more patient and save for the gear drives. i will. maybe. lol. its just that all the cams i see come on at 24 degrees or later which i know put the band further up and the ones that come on at 18 only go to 55-5800 rpms,i want 6-6250.cam selection sucks.at least these heads will support up to 570 lift,i just can't find one that comes on early enough except the 211.and it goes to 6250.

sorry this is so long,but i need help.thanks alot guys.
jay.

also will i have to beef up the clutch with a new spring? and is the 44 mm carb really needed? i was told the the 40 mm is good to like 100 h/p.
:thanks: :thanks: :thanks:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
SEDELUXE05 said:
are the heads cnc or just htcc non ported
id go with the woods tw5 2degree advance
if your not going to go gear cam or even the andrews
your going to need a decent cam with those heads some of the top guys will chime in soon they forgot more than i know
yes they are ported.and thanks
 

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I'll let others much more knowledgeable than I comment on your head and cam selection, etc. I will suggest though that you do something with the clutch. I asked the same type of question a few weeks ago re: the need for a clutch upgrade when I had my engine rebuilt (see specs below). I was assured by the majority of the posters that the stock clutch could handle it. This is just about the only time I wish I hadn't listened to the majority on this board. As soon as I got enough break in miles on it I had a few short WOT runs thru a couple of gears. The clutch slipped badly. So now I need to have another shop tear it down again and add some beef to the clutch...not sure right now what will be needed, but I definitely will do something. Maybe I ended up with a lot more torque that what people thought I would....I know the sucker really yanks on the old arms now!

2005 FLSTFI 15th Anniversary Model
95", Baisley Pro Street ported heads, Wood TW-6HG, SE forged pistons w/10.25:1 cr, Baisley custom rollerized rockers, SE Stage 1 A/C, Compression Releases, Baisley oil spring, V&H ProPipe HS, PCIIIUSB, M6
 

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Life is what you make it
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If you look at my signature I have that combo less the ported part. I would stay away from the SE-211 cams and go with the TW-5G just made that conversion myself a week ago. I havent been to the dyno since the cam change. Making the changes you are talking about it would probably be a good idea to get away from the tensioners for the cam drive and the TW-5G will take care of that too. Exhaust systems can play a big roll in your torque curve too and when that seat of the paints pull kicks in. I would say in the few miles I have riden due to weather, with the TW-5G it pulls like mad in the low end !!!! Especially in 2nd and 3rd, no sag, just go............. You should do the spring part too, it's cheap and easy. IF you are doing it yourself be sure to buy the right tools for the job. It is well worth the money and it will make the job go much easier.
 

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IronButt
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TOSS the ported heads and CHUCK the 211 and use a tw5g is you have to have SE parts. That combo will make peak numbers of 90+ hp and 95+ tq with good pipes ( not the ones you currently have sorry)

That build is pricey though there are way to make more tq lower longer and for less money. With 10.5 compression you will need release's and roller rockers, adjustable push rods, covers, adjst able ign module, and for the carb you stated you ride 2 up on I would use the 40 but have it worked.


I just did that cam swap here not too long ago. THe above numbers where made on pump gas .


Myself would port your heads, use a 37 g cam and go 98inch and be done with it, less money, more tq , less oil temps. but that is just my 2 cents. I use the woods 5 on a regular basis but there are other way to make life easier and save money.
 

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05fatty said:
I'll let others much more knowledgeable than I comment on your head and cam selection, etc. I will suggest though that you do something with the clutch. I asked the same type of question a few weeks ago re: the need for a clutch upgrade when I had my engine rebuilt (see specs below). I was assured by the majority of the posters that the stock clutch could handle it. This is just about the only time I wish I hadn't listened to the majority on this board. As soon as I got enough break in miles on it I had a few short WOT runs thru a couple of gears. The clutch slipped badly. So now I need to have another shop tear it down again and add some beef to the clutch...not sure right now what will be needed, but I definitely will do something. Maybe I ended up with a lot more torque that what people thought I would....I know the sucker really yanks on the old arms now!

2005 FLSTFI 15th Anniversary Model
95", Baisley Pro Street ported heads, Wood TW-6HG, SE forged pistons w/10.25:1 cr, Baisley custom rollerized rockers, SE Stage 1 A/C, Compression Releases, Baisley oil spring, V&H ProPipe HS, PCIIIUSB, M6
Sorry, you can't blame us for this one.
Totenkopf and I said upgrade, and Harris and Geezerglide said no. It was a draw, unless you got a lot of PMs...
Sorry, though. It sucks to have to redo work.
 

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05fatty said:
I'll let others much more knowledgeable than I comment on your head and cam selection, etc. I will suggest though that you do something with the clutch. I asked the same type of question a few weeks ago re: the need for a clutch upgrade when I had my engine rebuilt (see specs below). I was assured by the majority of the posters that the stock clutch could handle it. This is just about the only time I wish I hadn't listened to the majority on this board. As soon as I got enough break in miles on it I had a few short WOT runs thru a couple of gears. The clutch slipped badly. So now I need to have another shop tear it down again and add some beef to the clutch...not sure right now what will be needed, but I definitely will do something. Maybe I ended up with a lot more torque that what people thought I would....I know the sucker really yanks on the old arms now!

2005 FLSTFI 15th Anniversary Model
95", Baisley Pro Street ported heads, Wood TW-6HG, SE forged pistons w/10.25:1 cr, Baisley custom rollerized rockers, SE Stage 1 A/C, Compression Releases, Baisley oil spring, V&H ProPipe HS, PCIIIUSB, M6
Fatty, that's a nice build! it ought to yank your arms straight out of your shoulders.

ummmm........ by the way, Mega is correct! there was no majority there telling you the stock clutch was okay. I gave you the low cost recipe for fixing your clutch pack back in your original thread. Combine it with the Mega's recommended reduced effort ramps and you will have a clutch that my local guru says works with motors making 130++ft-lbs of torque.

Git'er duuuuuun!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
HDWRENCH said:
TOSS the ported heads and CHUCK the 211 and use a tw5g is you have to have SE parts. That combo will make peak numbers of 90+ hp and 95+ tq with good pipes ( not the ones you currently have sorry)

That build is pricey though there are way to make more tq lower longer and for less money. With 10.5 compression you will need release's and roller rockers, adjustable push rods, covers, adjst able ign module, and for the carb you stated you ride 2 up on I would use the 40 but have it worked.


I just did that cam swap here not too long ago. THe above numbers where made on pump gas .


Myself would port your heads, use a 37 g cam and go 98inch and be done with it, less money, more tq , less oil temps. but that is just my 2 cents. I use the woods 5 on a regular basis but there are other way to make life easier and save money.
HDWRENCH.can you give me some info on that 98"kit and having the heads done with cams.all that was 1000.bucks???
 

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Discussion Starter #9
hotshotfxdl said:
If you look at my signature I have that combo less the ported part. I would stay away from the SE-211 cams and go with the TW-5G just made that conversion myself a week ago. I havent been to the dyno since the cam change. Making the changes you are talking about it would probably be a good idea to get away from the tensioners for the cam drive and the TW-5G will take care of that too. Exhaust systems can play a big roll in your torque curve too and when that seat of the paints pull kicks in. I would say in the few miles I have riden due to weather, with the TW-5G it pulls like mad in the low end !!!! Especially in 2nd and 3rd, no sag, just go............. You should do the spring part too, it's cheap and easy. IF you are doing it yourself be sure to buy the right tools for the job. It is well worth the money and it will make the job go much easier.
thanks hotshot,i think thats what i'm gonna do. i will check out the specs of the cams u mentioned. i'll just save alittle more and be patient for a little longer and git r done right the first time and not have to go back and do things twice.besides i think my wife would shoot me and sell the bike if i ended up doing cams twice.
jay.
 
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