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:hmmm: Can anyone tell me if the rocker support plate bolts need locktite? I torqued them without locktite and the two nearest the valve springs backed out exposing several threads and causing valvetrain noise. I retorqued them and there is still some rocker noise.-----HELP====
 

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67xlch said:
:hmmm: Can anyone tell me if the rocker support plate bolts need locktite? I torqued them without locktite and the two nearest the valve springs backed out exposing several threads and causing valvetrain noise. I retorqued them and there is still some rocker noise.-----HELP====
I added loctite to EVERY bolt.. I used the blue on those but its a pain to get the oil cleared out, I soak the bolts in naptha
 

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AZFXSTB said:
I added loctite to EVERY bolt.. I used the blue on those but its a pain to get the oil cleared out, I soak the bolts in naptha

@gree: I use blue on all bolts unless it calls for red etc. Takes extra time but it's easier and takes less time to do it once.



{salute( :spank: {salute(
 

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pa-glazier said:
A Q-Tip and some lacquer thinner works well for cleaning out bolt holes.

Yes it does I use your method also. I forgot to address that part of his post. :thanks:



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One of the best $50 bills I ever dropped for the shop was a Craftsman Thread Restorer kit. It works a lot like a tap and die kit, but is designed to repair existing threads, not cut new ones. Cleans up burrs and nicks beautifully, and is excellent for cleaning up old loctite from bolts and threaded bores. Spray some brake cleaner on the part, then use the correct tap or die from the kit to recondition the thread. Follow up with another cleaning with brake cleaner, let it dry, and you have a fastener ready for reinstall.

Here's a LINK to the kit on the Craftsman site.

I think it was Steve from GMR that originally recommended this kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:thanks: I appreciate the help and here's what the deal was: Today I removed the rocker cover again and the 4 bolts were where I torqued them last week, so I took the rockers off and checked the pushrods for straightness; they were straight. Removed the lifter blocks and took the lifters apart, everything look good in there. I left one of the lifters partially filled with oil so I could check the preload after I got the pushrods in as before I was unable to get any preload movement when checking the rods on the base circle. Assembled the remaing parts and started the motor. Voila, while the lifter was pumping up I could hear a louder version of what I was hearing before until the lifter filled with oil. It must be the front exhaust valvetrain and very possible the lifter isn't functioning properly. I rode 30 miles and 2 buds, came home and changed the oil. From what I have read on this Forum, a lot of builds have more valvetrain noise than stockers. Must be the cam lifts and ramp differences. Soon I plan to get a set of BigBoyz ported street heads at which time I will replace the lifters with AMS lifters which I've heard good things about. Until then, I can live with it and some louder exhausts. Thanks again!
 

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Loctite

We use it all the time.
We do not want/need/like to do it twice.
Had a problem on our racer, with red/blue. Then we went to RC 680. That is some mean stuff. I believe it has a different name now. Just saying....
Scott
 

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Hillsidecycle.com said:
Then we went to RC 680.
That stuff is for bearings and retaining stuff you do not want to out! I certainly would not use it as a substitute for Red and Blue Loctite under normal installations.

Regards,
NC
 

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Mikie said:
One of the best $50 bills I ever dropped for the shop was a Craftsman Thread Restorer kit. It works a lot like a tap and die kit, but is designed to repair existing threads, not cut new ones. Cleans up burrs and nicks beautifully, and is excellent for cleaning up old loctite from bolts and threaded bores. Spray some brake cleaner on the part, then use the correct tap or die from the kit to recondition the thread. Follow up with another cleaning with brake cleaner, let it dry, and you have a fastener ready for reinstall.

Here's a LINK to the kit on the Craftsman site.

I think it was Steve from GMR that originally recommended this kit.
@gree: Great set to have around.
 

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67xlch said:
:hmmm: Can anyone tell me if the rocker support plate bolts need locktite? I torqued them without locktite and the two nearest the valve springs backed out exposing several threads and causing valvetrain noise. I retorqued them and there is still some rocker noise.-----HELP====
More particulars on your engine might help. Gear drive? Adjustable pushrods? Cams? Head gasket?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
engine particulars

In a previous post I explained the result of rechecking the rocker support bolts. however it is running SE flat tops-95 in,-and Andrews 37 chain drive cams. Head porting to come this winter oh, and a baisley spring. Got lots of oil pressure.
 

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did you clean oil out of the holes before loctiting. you can blow them out w/ air. a basketball filling needle works really good to get in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
did you clean oil out of the holes before loctiting. you can blow them out w/ air. a basketball filling needle works really good to get in there.
Yes, I cleaned the holes with laquer thinner and q/tips------------tried to do a quote!
 

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I'm sure you did this correctly and i havent read the entire thread but just have to make mention. I assume you are using stock pushrods w/ the 37 cam as i think it is bolt in. When i do a build w/ stock pushrods, after i make sure the cam is on base circle, i torque the rocker housing bolts in increments, helping the lifters bleed down slowly. I'll snug them, wait 10 min, the go 5 ft lbs, wait 5-10 min, and repeat the process at 10#,15#,and finally 18#, then wait til i can spin the pushrods and recheck. like i said, im sure you did this, just pointing it out.
 
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