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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone who has ever changed the rocker box gaskets on a FXR knows how tight the rear cylinder is under the frame. I've been told that the pros use a jack under the motor to hold it in place while they remove the front motor mount and then lower the entire engine in the frame until there's enough clearance at the top of the rear cylinder for a allen wrench and then to remove the rocker box pieces. When the gaskets and rocker boxes are back together, use the jack under the motor to lift it back to a proper level to reassemble the front mortor mount.

My questions for anyone who has done this:

Can this be done with the bike on the sidestand or do you have to stabilize the bike upright first, with maybe a front wheel chock or what?

Do you have to remove either the front or top heim joints or leave them in place? It would seem that leaving them unmolested might be a help in putting the front motor mount back in place.

Do you have to remove the front exhaust pipe?

What kind of jack did you use under the motor? My auto trolley jack won't go low enough to fit underneath. A small scissors jack maybe?

Any other details I would need to know ahead of time?

Thanks for any input.
 

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My 84 fxr has no access hole in the frame for the left rear rocker box bolt, so I use a similar method.

Can this be done with the bike on the sidestand or do you have to stabilize the bike upright first, with maybe a front wheel chock or what?

I put the bike on my lift, then use a small bottle jack to raise and lower the engine.

Do you have to remove either the front or top heim joints or leave them in place? It would seem that leaving them unmolested might be a help in putting the front motor mount back in place.

I unbolt the top motor mount from the frame, then once the engine gets jacked back oint place, I slide the bolt thru the frame. This makes sure the turnbuckle dosn't get touched and the alignement remains the same.


Do you have to remove the front exhaust pipe?

I do, it's quick to do and gives me more room.

What kind of jack did you use under the motor? My auto trolley jack won't go low enough to fit underneath. A small scissors jack maybe?

Regular bike lift, along with a small bottle jack.


Any other details I would need to know ahead of time?

That should do it, along with a good factory manual.

Thanks for any input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you very much, fxrflh.
 

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i made a spreader that goes between the top mount and the frame saves time less taking apart non problem peices
 

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Otto said:
i made a spreader that goes between the top mount and the frame saves time less taking apart non problem peices
What does this "spreader" of yours look like?
 

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ok its a couple of aluminum plate hinged at one end chat clamps to the top motor mount and a swivel foot forcing screw that as turned in pushes the top plate up against the frame to push the engine down against the mounts to gain room to remove the rear box easier and it what easier and safer than what i use to do and that was use a rachet strap around the bottom of frame and over the top of trans motor junction caution must be used not to pinch a hose or wire and cinch up gaining clearance to service the rear box
 

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I had a cut down 3/16 allan which I used to remove the rear bolts. I changed them for 1/4 20 hex and ground an old 12 point box end to fit in the depression on the rocker box cover... never messed with the engine mounts. Removing the stabilisers would make it easier to move the engine to the left...not sure whether or not it'll help though..
 

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brdman said:
I had a cut down 3/16 allan which I used to remove the rear bolts. .....
I also cut down a 3/16" allen "bit" (one end was 3/16" the other end was 5/16") so that the bit would fit between the frame and the rocker box. Using a long, flat, 5/16" box end wrench I unscrewed the rocker box cap screw (bolt). The "bit" was only about 1/4" long after I finished cutting it down (Dremmel tool). I pulled the gas tank for ease of working.

In retrospect lowering the engine might be easier, but I don't like disturbing stuff if I don't have to.
 

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I cut down an allen wrench along with lowereing the engine and removing the tank. Make *SURE* the rocker boxes are *ALIGNED* while tightening.
 

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I did this job yesterday i removed the bottom motor mount and the bracket thta the front stabliser link is attached to and lowered the motor with a tolley jack. the bike was on a bike lift and i had a shortened allen key but i attached a socket to it and used a screwdriver that goes in the socket end. It took me about and hour to remove and put back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Since I posted the original question I have done the job--no leaks.

I stabilized the bike upright but not on a stand.

I bought a used Honda Accord scissors jack to control lowerng the motor in the frame--works like a charm to lower and raise back into place.

Didn't need to remove the front exhaust pipe--lowered the motor to just before the pipe contacted the frame.

I removed the front heim joint but not the top.

I still don't see how anybody could get a torque wrench in there but I torqued two of the front bolts in place and then "felt" how that much twist was by hand to try to get the others similar. No leaks so far.
 
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