I have a 2002 Road King. With the factory handlebars my arms arm outstretched all the way. I would like to bring the controls about 2 or 3 inches closer to me. I realize a new set of bars would do this but I have no idea where to start so I figured I'd ask here to see if someone has done the same thing. What does it entail? Is it just a matter of changing out the bars or would I have to replace the cables and wiring as well? Also, what bars have worked for you?
Road King Bars
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Handlebars
DJMA,
I have the same problem. 03 FLHR Road King. Just wait and you'll get
somemore answers from your fellow riders/readers.
My wrench says the bars are an easy change as H-D has an extended
bar especially for the King. No major cable changes are necessary, just
recable it all back up.
Plan to do this soon, as the stock bars force my arms out that I can't even
bend my elbows.
Check H-D catalog, page 601, item D, custom handlebars.
DJMA,
I have the same problem. 03 FLHR Road King. Just wait and you'll get
somemore answers from your fellow riders/readers.
My wrench says the bars are an easy change as H-D has an extended
bar especially for the King. No major cable changes are necessary, just
recable it all back up.
Plan to do this soon, as the stock bars force my arms out that I can't even
bend my elbows.
Check H-D catalog, page 601, item D, custom handlebars.
Check out http://www.wild1inc.com/
for Chubbys. Better Bars less $$$.
I have the opposite problem with my King. To close for me. I'm on the verge of Chubby 515 Mini Apes.
Good Luck!
for Chubbys. Better Bars less $$$.
I have the opposite problem with my King. To close for me. I'm on the verge of Chubby 515 Mini Apes.
Good Luck!
I have the CHUBBY R.K. BARS.
Brings your grips approx. 2.5" closer to you. Much more relaxed riding position - I like them.
Installation is pretty simple.
Took me 1.5 h (wiring inside bar) approx. 1 h with wiring outside.
Original cables and wires are long enough.
Don't forget to get you a new grip for the LHS - the original one is glued and you will have to cut it off or leave it on the old bar.
The bar looks great - 1.25" fat - a big diffrence to the original "pipecleaners".
Chrome quality is excellent.
Hope this helps.
Brings your grips approx. 2.5" closer to you. Much more relaxed riding position - I like them.
Installation is pretty simple.
Took me 1.5 h (wiring inside bar) approx. 1 h with wiring outside.
Original cables and wires are long enough.
Don't forget to get you a new grip for the LHS - the original one is glued and you will have to cut it off or leave it on the old bar.
The bar looks great - 1.25" fat - a big diffrence to the original "pipecleaners".
Chrome quality is excellent.
Hope this helps.
Forgive me if this is going to sound naive but: In order to change out the bars I obviously have to remove all the controls. How difficult is this? Is it just a matter of a few bolts and screws to remove then replace? Or do I have to mess with cable and brake set ups? Meaning disconnecting stuff that will need to be adjusted to work properly when I reconnect. Did that make sense? I am at work right now so I can't go scope it out in the garage.
Whoever said buying the bike is just a downpayment for all the mods wasn't bullshitting! But sure is fun!
Whoever said buying the bike is just a downpayment for all the mods wasn't bullshitting!
But sure is fun!Hi DJ,
The steps are as follows
remove the headlight (not the nacelle)
remove the molding on top of the headlight (2 tiny nuts from the inside of the housing)
remove the fork lock cover
under the cover are two phillips screws - remove them and take the riser cover off.
remove the 4 plastic pieces holding the cables in place.
now take off the switch housings (2 torx bolts on each side)
rap the switch housings in a terry towel to make sure the tank doesn't get sratched.
remove the clutch lever (two torx bolts)
again rap a towel arround it and let it hang.
loosen the two torx bolts on the throttle side and have another towel handy rap the brake lever assembly in the towel and attach it with a piece of wire to the crash bar (to make sure that the brake line doesn't get bend)
now ask somebody to hold the bar and loosen the four riser bolts (clamp that holds the bar).
shift the bar to the left that the throttle grip slips off the bar. Rap the towel arround the throttle grip and let it hang down.
remove the four riser bolts and take off the bar.
Put new bar on and ask somebody to hold it, until you have the throttle grip back in place and tighten the riser bolts until the bar doesn't shift any more - you need to loose them again afterwards to adjust the bar position.
Reverse the above steps to reasemble the whole thing.
The only tricky part is, to put the brake lever assembly back on as you probably have to bend the brake line a littlebit to line it up with the shape of the new bar. Be very, very careful doeing this to not break the line.
Have fun.
The steps are as follows
remove the headlight (not the nacelle)
remove the molding on top of the headlight (2 tiny nuts from the inside of the housing)
remove the fork lock cover
under the cover are two phillips screws - remove them and take the riser cover off.
remove the 4 plastic pieces holding the cables in place.
now take off the switch housings (2 torx bolts on each side)
rap the switch housings in a terry towel to make sure the tank doesn't get sratched.
remove the clutch lever (two torx bolts)
again rap a towel arround it and let it hang.
loosen the two torx bolts on the throttle side and have another towel handy rap the brake lever assembly in the towel and attach it with a piece of wire to the crash bar (to make sure that the brake line doesn't get bend)
now ask somebody to hold the bar and loosen the four riser bolts (clamp that holds the bar).
shift the bar to the left that the throttle grip slips off the bar. Rap the towel arround the throttle grip and let it hang down.
remove the four riser bolts and take off the bar.
Put new bar on and ask somebody to hold it, until you have the throttle grip back in place and tighten the riser bolts until the bar doesn't shift any more - you need to loose them again afterwards to adjust the bar position.
Reverse the above steps to reasemble the whole thing.
The only tricky part is, to put the brake lever assembly back on as you probably have to bend the brake line a littlebit to line it up with the shape of the new bar. Be very, very careful doeing this to not break the line.
Have fun.
Hi I'll be doing mine next week, could you keep us updated on what you find out.DJMA said:Forgive me if this is going to sound naive but: In order to change out the bars I obviously have to remove all the controls. How difficult is this? Is it just a matter of a few bolts and screws to remove then replace? Or do I have to mess with cable and brake set ups? Meaning disconnecting stuff that will need to be adjusted to work properly when I reconnect. Did that make sense? I am at work right now so I can't go scope it out in the garage.
Whoever said buying the bike is just a downpayment for all the mods wasn't bullshitting!
I'm not sure how to pull the wires inside the bars, do I disconnect at the headlight harness side or the switch controls side. And are the connectors small enough to pull through the bars or do you have to disconnect the pins from the connectors to pull it through.
I'm changing to chubbys 518s, thanks.
DJ, one comment to add to what brust60 posted. Get a manual and read the part about removing the brake lever control. You will mess up the brake switch if you don't reassemble this correctly - i:e put a small spacer in the lever when reinstalling to the switch unit. Kinda confusing...better take a look to see what I mean.
Thanks for the reply. Bummer though, I last installed the kuryakyn turn signal mirrors, and could'nt get replacement deutsch connectors here, so I cut the main harness and crimped on new connectors (non-removable) for the signal/running lights. I don't think I can pull the connectors through the bars can I?brust60 said:
My mistake I should've listened to my wife and just cut the wires from the original signal wires and soldered them onto the new ones. I thought it better to keep them on at the time in case I could sell my passing lamp assembly.
Guess I'll have to cut the signal light wires and resolder an extension between them.
Joined
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6,406 Posts
Re: Road King bars
Have you used or installed these bars?? A friend of mine is looking at them for a 2000 RK but HD 2003 P&A book only mentions higher and narrower not more pullback. 55935-98 brings bars 2" closer to the rider but also requires a clutch cable change along with throttle and idle cable(according to the book). He doesn't want to do that if he can help it.
xrystl:xrystl said:
Have you used or installed these bars?? A friend of mine is looking at them for a 2000 RK but HD 2003 P&A book only mentions higher and narrower not more pullback. 55935-98 brings bars 2" closer to the rider but also requires a clutch cable change along with throttle and idle cable(according to the book). He doesn't want to do that if he can help it.
Keep in mind that this may be a good time to change to braided cables (if you like the idea). The clutch cable involves a bit more work i belive. I had my wiring routed inside the bars and chnaged to briaded cables all at the same time. Clearly costs more, but now is the time, if ever. good luck, greg
Thanks everyone for the info so far. I tried measuring the existing bars to match them up with a part number in the catalog but nothing matches up with the book. I'm sure my measurements are off not knowing exactly where they end the rule on the bends. I am going to have the stealer look up the original part numbers and go from there. The best thing would be to ride it to the stealer and pull some bars from stock and compare but with the weather this is not an option yet. I was hoping for the "yup you need part #xxxxxx-xx" type of answer.
mtucci, I wonder if the bars your guy is referring to are the same ones mentioned by xrystl. I'll have to take a close look at those. Right now the bank is tellin me to stick with a $50 solution for now
mtucci, I wonder if the bars your guy is referring to are the same ones mentioned by xrystl. I'll have to take a close look at those. Right now the bank is tellin me to stick with a $50 solution for now
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