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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went and got my bike back today and the verdict was rings in wrong and bad valve seals.Makes me wonder what kinda crack heads they have working at the factory,I hope the MOCO are not reverting back to their old ways back in the AMF days.There was an awful lot of blowby going on which is why I wasnt seeing any smoke.(I think)The very top edge of the valve seals were worn bad in spots which kinda makes me wonder about the guides,I wish I could have done the rebuild myself just for peace of mind,the mechanic seemed very knowlagable so I am keeping optimistic about it.I dont know why it was running so lean but the pistons and valves were white.The dealership from which I bought the bike did do the stage 1 download and I had the SE A/C ,bassani true duals/sampson slip ons. I went with the 95" BB with the 204 cam,very suprised that the cam tensioners seemed to be in decent shape for 17000 miles.I am giving that credit to the use of Amsoil.I put it in at 800 miles and changed it every 3000 miles at least except for the two week vacation when I stretched it to 4000.Maybe putting a quart of oil in every 1000 miles or less kept the oil from breakin down. I think I like the way it is running now I put about 60 miles on it today.It was a little chilly today 40 and rain so the rear tire would break loose very easy.I think the 204 is going to work out good on the bagger especially when loaded down.I did get it out on the E/way for a few miles and I kept looking for another gear. I dont know what numbers I should be looking for with this combination but the tq is 89 at 2900 rpms and the peak hp is 70 at 4900 rpms. The tq is 80 plus from 2000 rpm right up to a little over 4000 rpm. I will post a copy of dyno if anyone is interest now that I am a bonofied member of this forum.Thanks to everyone for the great amount of info here.I felt like a cheap ass by soaking up all this info and not paying my dues to the ones that work so hard to make this forum what it is,and I urge everyone that hasnt paid their dues to do it.look what a manual cost and the info here is much desired by all,at least that is how I feel.I am done babbling.
Larry?prty:
 

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05 heads

On the 05 heads, we have a customer who has an 05 Road Glide that started to use alot of oil. He was up to a quart every 350 or so and he used to go Toledo to Cinci, 200 miles twice a week and alot of other shorter rides during the weekdays. Took the bike to the dealer and they said like always "They all do that"! So I offered to sell him a set of older low mileage takeoff heads I had that had the old larger valves in them. We installed them and the oil usage stopped. We checked it on the dyno and it gained 5 hp and 6 tq just changing heads! These heads were bone stock. I think they were from an 02. Friday http://www.v-twinforum.com/vendors.htm

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woodmaster said:
Went and got my bike back today and the verdict was rings in wrong and bad valve seals.Makes me wonder what kinda crack heads they have working at the factory,I hope the MOCO are not reverting back to their old ways back in the AMF days.There was an awful lot of blowby going on which is why I wasnt seeing any smoke.(I think)The very top edge of the valve seals were worn bad in spots which kinda makes me wonder about the guides,I wish I could have done the rebuild myself just for peace of mind,the mechanic seemed very knowlagable so I am keeping optimistic about it.I dont know why it was running so lean but the pistons and valves were white.The dealership from which I bought the bike did do the stage 1 download and I had the SE A/C ,bassani true duals/sampson slip ons. I went with the 95" BB with the 204 cam,very suprised that the cam tensioners seemed to be in decent shape for 17000 miles.I am giving that credit to the use of Amsoil.I put it in at 800 miles and changed it every 3000 miles at least except for the two week vacation when I stretched it to 4000.Maybe putting a quart of oil in every 1000 miles or less kept the oil from breakin down. I think I like the way it is running now I put about 60 miles on it today.It was a little chilly today 40 and rain so the rear tire would break loose very easy.I think the 204 is going to work out good on the bagger especially when loaded down.I did get it out on the E/way for a few miles and I kept looking for another gear. I dont know what numbers I should be looking for with this combination but the tq is 89 at 2900 rpms and the peak hp is 70 at 4900 rpms. The tq is 80 plus from 2000 rpm right up to a little over 4000 rpm. I will post a copy of dyno if anyone is interest now that I am a bonofied member of this forum.Thanks to everyone for the great amount of info here.I felt like a cheap ass by soaking up all this info and not paying my dues to the ones that work so hard to make this forum what it is,and I urge everyone that hasnt paid their dues to do it.look what a manual cost and the info here is much desired by all,at least that is how I feel.I am done babbling.
Larry?prty:
unbeleivable, truly!! the download is why you were lean. rings upside down??
it is common knowldge that the valve guide seals were junk. but rings upside down??????????????????
 

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claydbal said:
unbeleivable, truly!! the download is why you were lean. rings upside down??
it is common knowldge that the valve guide seals were junk. but rings upside down??????????????????
clay: I agree it sounds strange........

From the MOCO Bulletin:

August 10, 2005

Diagnosing Oil Consumption

5. Now begin your disassembly based on your findings, and keep both eyes open
as you take things apart for clues to the root cause.
• If the leakage was primarily into the crankcase, then you are chasing a piston to
cylinder sealing issues. To rule out a barreled or tapered cylinder re-check leak
down in three places (top - middle - bottom) in the stroke once the rocker arm
support plate is removed.
By the way how did those umbrellas look, and was the rocker box fairly well
scavenged? No clogged return passages right? No signs of leakage at the head
gasket oil returns? Good gasket surfaces?
Check the piston crown for carbon build up. Washed areas on the edges of the
piston crown are a good indication of an "oil pumper" (bad rings or piston to
cylinder fit). Solid carbon build up across the piston crown generally indicated it
is coming from above.
With the cylinders off you will be able to more closely examine (and take note of)
ring end gap locations. Do they match the service manual recommendations or
are they lined up? Also, check the second compression ring, also called the
middle or scraper ring, installation. The "dot" should face up, but even more
important the outer bevel slants toward the piston and it has a slight chamfer on
the ID that goes to the bottom to allow it to function properly. It is rare but
sometimes the "dot" is up and ring's taper face is wrong.

While you are looking at the rings check their wear patterns. A ring that is over
spread or twisted during installation will not seal properly.
:hmmm:
 

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Hellbound Train
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5,595 Posts
The "dot" should face up, but even more
important the outer bevel slants toward the piston and it has a slight chamfer on
the ID that goes to the bottom to allow it to function properly. It is rare but sometimes the "dot" is up and ring's taper face is wrong.


Wonder if one of the suppliers are from the land "Down Under"
 
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