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Based on my modest experience and the hundreds of (other guys') posts on this Forum (jump to the archive to learn more!), I can tell you that the DFO is the best thing to go with! You do not need to dyno your bike, all settings you can do yourself! So, easy to use - excellent results. AND - EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SUPPORT VIA E-MAIL/INTERNET !!!

If you intend to go further with your upgrades, you will find out that the Harley-Davidson's (expensive !) SERT program will be good option, too. But only if you intend to create powerful monster. Otherwise, the DFO will work perfect on your bike.

All the best!

emirharley
"Sarajevo Bikers Club" MC
www.sarajevobikersclub.ba
-----------------------------------------------------
2001 Harley-Davidson Road King Classic FLHRCI HDI EFI
Screamin' Eagle Stage One Kit
RevTech DFO Stealth Performance System
Screamin' Eagle Performance Mufflers
(Set two: Wild Pig Pipes, 2" baffles)
Ape Hanger
Back Rest
Kuryakyn Spider Light
...
et cetera
..
.
 

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Premium Member
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574 Posts
I did the same mistake, once upon a time. Believe me, it is very wise to install a DFO (or Power Commander, or.......). And aftermarket air cleaner (SE, or Kuryakyn, or Ness......). C'mon, that's not a huge investment. Think about it.

Best

emirharley
"Sarajevo Bikers Club" MC
www.sarajevobikersclub.ba
-----------------------------------------------------
2001 Harley-Davidson Road King Classic FLHRCI HDI EFI
Screamin' Eagle Stage One Kit
RevTech DFO Stealth Performance System
Screamin' Eagle Performance Mufflers
(Set two: Wild Pig Pipes, 2" baffles)
Ape Hanger
Back Rest
Kuryakyn Spider Light
...
et cetera
..
.
 

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Road Captain
Joined
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6,628 Posts
I've got a DFO with harness REAL cheap if you want it. Send me a PM
 

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Cheesehead
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262 Posts
Wow what a great thread. After reading all this I decided I had a very good use for my righthand glovebox. Now that I have this thing mounted where I can see it while riding I've learned a lot.

DON'T think accelerator pump when thinking about the yellow light. This is probably the most misleading information in all the instructions. Think about the spring tension against the piston controlling the needle in a Carter AFB carburetor. Lower pot numbers is less spring tension pushing up on the piston against the downward pull of engine vacuum. With engine vacuum high the piston is pulled down and the tapered needle is fully inserted in the jet restricting flow. As you roll on the throttle vacuum drops to a point where the spring is able to start lifting the piston raising the needle out of the jet increasing the flow of fuel. I Got the bike fully warmed up yesterday (I have an oil temp guage) and headed north on I80 at 80mph. I very slowly rolled on the throttle from a steady cruise speed and watched the yellow light come on. Did a loop and re-ran the route with the adjustment a half a notch down numerically and it took more load to turn the light on. This explains a lot with the fuel consumption issue.

Now the question. Does the yellow know what's going on with the green? Will a higher green setting cause the yellow to hold off longer? I believe the answer to both of these is no. I have the yellow fully counterclockwise against the stop at the 1 o'clock position. The green is slightly to the lean side of the middle of the range talked about in the instructions. Remember the green is adding fuel to what ever the computer is doing in the lower and middle rpm range. If the computer senses load it adds additional fuel, do you really need to add even more? I may end up with 0.5 on the yellow but for now it's off. Red is the same number as green and does not come on till just a tick over 4000rpm which means I will very rarely see this circuit.

Another observation. When abruptly shutting the throttle like when shifting or letting off to exit the freeway I get some flashes of the red light. Is additional fuel being added to help stop decel popping? Will adjusting the red higher help with decel popping?
 

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Premium Member
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267 Posts
Sorry Unyalli, I've got to disagree with practically everything you've posted there.

I don't think the red should be coming on. Check with Dobeck. Ask for George.

The yellow doesn't care what the green is doing. It should only respond to fast (not slow) throttle roll-on. If you find the bike responds OK with the yellow pot on minimuim you've probably got the green too high.
The re shoudl only come in above the rpm setting. If you set it above 7 it will default to 4 on all the later models, but setting it this way means teh green setting will only come in above around 1700 rpm - this can help get even better fuel consumption.

hth

Mike
 

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267 Posts
duhast said:
Well, still with these:

G 2.30
Y 2.30
R 3
RPM 7

And except for 17 miles 1-up, setting up the DFO and twisting the wick, 104.2 (total) miles, 50% 2-up, 70mph freeway and 50% up and down Ortega Hwy. (3000ft alt).


EDIT: Math was wrong only got this...34.84mpg. Still need improvement.
Turn the green pot UP to 3, keep the yellow where it is. That should improve MPG: you;re probably runing slightly lean.

hth

Mike
 

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Cheesehead
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262 Posts
Michael Benis said:
Sorry Unyalli, I've got to disagree with practically everything you've posted there.
Cool, that what's great about these discussion boards.

Michael Benis said:
I don't think the red should be coming on. Check with Dobeck. Ask for George.
The red coming on when closing the throttle has been explained here in post number 4.

Michael Benis said:
The yellow doesn't care what the green is doing.
I have learned this is a true statement over all. The yellow does not know about the green but, if the green happens to increase your power then the onsought of load is put off there buy in an end around carry kinda way the yellow is affected.

Michael Benis said:
It should only respond to fast (not slow) throttle roll-on.
This my friend is where you have it wrong and this is where I'm glad I finally mounted this thing where I could see it. Going north on I80 out of Cheyenne you creast a hill at Vandehei then the speed limit goes up to 75 and there's a nice long flat stretch followed by a rise just before the horse creek exit. Going a steady 75 on this long flat stretch there is no yellow light but start up the rise and it comes on. No change in throttle position what so ever. If it didn't work this way I would have to question Dobek's claim on load sensing. Now, with the green adding fuel to what ever the computer is doing, when load increases and the Delphi computer increases fuel do we really need to add even more? Possibly, but I question just how much.

Michael Benis said:
If you find the bike responds OK with the yellow pot on minimuim you've probably got the green too high.
See above.

Michael Benis said:
The red should only come in above the rpm setting.
Yes, I understand this now. The flashing red on decel is a false reading and should be ignored.

Michael Benis said:
If you set it above 7 it will default to 4 on all the later models, but setting it this way means the green setting will only come in above around 1700 rpm.
Now this is very interesting, did the previously mentioned George tell you this? I must thank you for this information and may have to try this during the winter so she will run lean during warm up and maybe warm up quicker.

In closing, now that I understand this box better I have to say, It's a pretty marvelous little piece of technology. I'm diggin fuel injection. The question I still have though is wheather the Delphi computer in my 05 can adjust for altitude. Without an 02 sensor or mass air flow sensor I can't see it happening.

Jeff
 

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Major success on todays install...

Just wanted to toot my horn over the wonderful and totally successful installation of the DFO on my 2006 Nightrain.:woohoo:

Due largely in part to all of the info and insight in this thread, I was able to put the DFO, a set of Bassani Prostreets, and an Arlen Ness Big Sucker A/C on in about 3 or 4 hours today. (those prostreets are awesome!) :gun: ( the A/C needed modified to fit the carb snug)

The DFO was designed with the new injector couplings/connectors for '06, and was the easiest little marvel to solve all of your confusion over a basic exhaust upgrade from stock. I have not had a flash upgrade and am using the stock ECM settings.

I can't stress enough the absolute noticeable, seat of the pants difference... I feel like I have a totally new bike!?prty:

I am still working on optimizing the settings and I will post them in the other forum when complete.

This was a great day- If anyone has been sitting on the fence in regards to SERT/PowerCommander and dyno nightmares, this is most definately your answer. I honestly believe most people do not need to use any other device as they will probably never build their bike to a level where any finer and more detailed tuning would be necessary.:nono:

Much respect and appreciation to Dobeck for this little gem!:thumbsup: :thanks:
 

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SE Ultra 2006 - TFI settings.

Hi!
I have a HDI FLHTCUSE 2006. with SE/AC , Stock mufflers, No downloads.
What settings and what mileage ?
Thank you!
Terry06
 

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Premium Member
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208 Posts
I installed my new TFI over the weekend. So far I'm very pleased with the performance of the unit. I set it up as per the instructions for my bike which has SE air cleaner with a K&N element, SEII slip-ons and a Stage 1 download. After taking a short ride to warm the engine, I adjusted the geeen pot. Current settings are 2:45, 3, 4, 4.

I haven't spent any time yet playing with the yellow pot. Even so, power is increased over what it was before. Response is much better, everything is much smoother. Engine even sounds different, sounds bigger, deeper exhaust note. One of the big differences is the heat (or lack of) coming from the exhaust crossover. I didn't tell my wife I had made any changes to the bike (I usually don't tell her everything I buy). When I took her for a ride Sunday she commented on how much cooler things felt.

My main goal with the TFI was to achieve a closer to correct air / fuel ratio and pick up some power if I could without killing the fuel mileage. So far, so good. I've run two tanks of gas through it since the installation and the results are 42.87 and 44.43 mpg. First tank was a mix of interstate and two lane with 6-8 full throttle runs and about 50 miles of 2-up riding. Second tank was 115 miles of two-up split 50/50 between interstate and two lane and 85 miles of solo interstate. I think the results are good.

So, where do I go in search of a little more power without running the fuel mileage below 40? I'm not an agressive rider, never hit the rev limiter yet. Anything I could gain from 0-4,000 rpm's would be a plus but I'm almost afraid to change anything. I will install new set of plugs this week, it's overdue (17,500 miles). I'll give the TFI a good test this weekend when we go to Asheville, NC for the state HOG rally. 3 days of two-up riding in the NC mountains.
 

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Hello All, first post here. I have a 2007 FXSTC Will the Revtech or other DFO's work on the 2007s. No listings for the 07s yet. It sure does run on the lean side. Any lugging whats so ever and it pings. Also if I might, will 06 exhaust slip on fit the 07s. Thanks
 

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myloff said:
Hello All, first post here. I have a 2007 FXSTC Will the Revtech or other DFO's work on the 2007s. No listings for the 07s yet. It sure does run on the lean side. Any lugging whats so ever and it pings. Also if I might, will 06 exhaust slip on fit the 07s. Thanks
THE 07 DFO/TF module is ready today as a matter of fact ,Pm. me and ill get you the info.
 

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Hiwaystar said:
The DFO was designed with the new injector couplings/connectors for '06, and was the easiest little marvel to solve all of your confusion over a basic exhaust upgrade from stock. I have not had a flash upgrade and am using the stock ECM settings.

I can't stress enough the absolute noticeable, seat of the pants difference... I feel like I have a totally new bike!?prty:
Hiwaystar...what's your final settings?
 

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I have an 05 FLSTN and dug in last March and bought the Stage 1 A/C and a pair of Bub Chambermaids. After some tweaking and adjusting, I got the settings where they needed to be and rode to Sturgis via Glacier National Park in Montana then Yellowstone in Wyoming, adjusting the settings a few times a day after fillups and performance tests (up mountains and passing cars, etc).

I believe by the time I got there, I had it dialed in, albeit a bit rich, it gave me 38mpg highway and 31 in city. The settings were near 3:30, 3:30, 4, 4 on my Revtech DFO. I get no backfires, or odd surges, the plugs are about Chocolate colored like my old carb bike.

I just swapped pipes for the new Samson True Dual Fishtails for my FLSTN (magnificent pipes) and find that the mileage is about the same, but in slower traffic, I'm getting warmer (i.e. 240 or so) as opposed to the 220 that I used to get.

Mileage is about the same at 39mpg highway and 32 city, back pressure is obvious and I can feel the bit of increase in torque which is great, but I'm concerned about engine cooling.

Is there anything I can do via the DFO or should I?

Should I just go blow some money on the Oil Cooler and get the drop in cooling through that? Bear in mind for the most part Seattle is a 60 to 70 degree average, and we've been getting average daily temps in the high 70's low 80's. If that has any bearing, obviously I can adjust...but if want to spend a week in California, over the pass even in the warmer climes...I am concerned.

Any tweaks or adjustments appreciated.

Bodie
 

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I have a 2001 Ultra with Revtech DFO and am still hearing some popping on decel, but not nearly as much as before I installed it. I have a Stage 1 air intake and V&H Fishtail Slipons with quiet baffles and stock download. I went with the suggested settings in the manual:

G: 3
Y: 6
R: 4
RPM: 4

Any idea how I should change this to get rid of the popping?
 

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kevdog said:
I have a 2001 Ultra with Revtech DFO and am still hearing some popping on decel, but not nearly as much as before I installed it. I have a Stage 1 air intake and V&H Fishtail Slipons with quiet baffles and stock download. I went with the suggested settings in the manual:

G: 3
Y: 6
R: 4
RPM: 4

Any idea how I should change this to get rid of the popping?
I would set the G;at 3.5 the y; at 4 and leave the red alone,and the rpm alone,I tweeked mine a little in the g pot for the same reason.and lowered the yellow a little for fuel milage.SH
 

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This is what I recently have learned, working in (internet) "co-operation" with excellent people from Dobeck Performance (Pro Feuler): just modest change of about 0:15 o'clock can mean huge difference. Aslo, I have lerned that more "green" must not always mean better performance. So, the suggested settings for my 2001 RKC + Stage One + Wild Pig Pipes (2" baffles) + DFO was g-2:45, y-4:00, r-4:00, RPM-4:00, but after the months of testings I have discovered that the best setting for my bike is g-1:30 (to 1:45), y-3:00, r-4:00, RPM-4:00. More "green" on my bike means more poor engine performance, i.e. if I increase "green" from 01,30 to 02,00 or to 02,30 or even to 03,00, an engine runs and sounds more and more like an engine with damaged one spark plug (this is the best explanation, but the spark plug is not damaged, of course). For example, when I have "green" on 01,30 engine runs and sounds VERY SMOOTHLY, very "regular", but more "green", more irregular work.

Being on line with ProFeuler we have discovered that 1:45 of "green" is the best for my bike, since it is very likely that my bike is "slightly out of factory spec".

Also, I'd like to emphasize that an increase of the "green" from 1:30 to 1:45 brought me an increase in fuel compsumption of about 10%, but also an increase in power, throttle response and overall performance, so finally I am pleased with this final setting(s). Yes, for me/my bike "green" on 1:30 to 1:45 is much, much better than 2:00, 2:30, 3:00 or more.

Final results: lots of power, excellent performance and excellent throttle response ("yellow"!) when opened rapidly ("kick down"), just here and there some popping on decel (maybe some air leak, somowhere), some surging at low speed, no mufflers' discoloration and "acceptable" fuel consumption even though I ride quite hard. All in all, as I have already emphasized, I am pleased with this setting.

Just my 2 cents that I wanted to share with you.


emirharley
"Sarajevo Bikers Club" MC
www.sarajevobikersclub.ba
-----------------------------------------------------
2001 Harley-Davidson Road King Classic FLHRCI HDI EFI
Screamin' Eagle Stage One Kit
RevTech DFO Stealth Performance System
Screamin' Eagle Performance Mufflers
(Set two: Wild Pig Pipes, 2" baffles)
Ape Hanger
Back Rest
Kuryakyn Spider Light
...
et cetera
..
.
 

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Premium Member
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574 Posts
To BBBodie: yes, go and get an oil cooler. You will be very pleased to have it, I guarantee you that!
 

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My mileage dropped slightly, but throttle response and overall power went up significantly...better than with the PC 111 I had...no laptop or dynos required for tuning.

For my money it's a better product for half the cost...both are better than stock ecm burn upgrade.
 
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