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Discussion Starter #1
does the revtech dfo work?

all i need to know is does the revtech dfo work all i have on my scoot is samson silver bullets ,. baffled , no remap ,, no air celaner mods just stock with pipes
 

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Discussion Starter #2
DFO warning

I just talked with a reputable harley mechanic{ harley certified in all aspects}
he advised against using ANY type of CHEATER BOX as he calls it, what it does is fool the onboard computer to MAKE it run richer , leaner or whatever,, When he was in milwakee for training , they showed him a whole stack of efi boxes that were cooked from using a so called cheater box ,, and once the factory sees that the efi box { factory} is cooked , they look at one specific curicut, on the box ,, and thats when you find out that your efi box WILL not be coverd under factory warranty , { they cost over 600 bucks}
I have no reason to doubt him as he no longer works for HD he has his own shop
so i guess i wont be doing any DFO s
 

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Discussion Starter #3
More info in this subject{ response i got from techlusion}

namvet said:
I just talked with a reputable harley mechanic{ harley certified in all aspects}
he advised against using ANY type of CHEATER BOX as he calls it, what it does is fool the onboard computer to MAKE it run richer , leaner or whatever,, When he was in milwakee for training , they showed him a whole stack of efi boxes that were cooked from using a so called cheater box ,, and once the factory sees that the efi box { factory} is cooked , they look at one specific curicut, on the box ,, and thats when you find out that your efi box WILL not be coverd under factory warranty , { they cost over 600 bucks}
I have no reason to doubt him as he no longer works for HD he has his own shop
so i guess i wont be doing any DFO s

Good morning
well........ just when i thought i'd heard it all something like this comes along. First off i'd like to say that this dealership needs to be educated on the dfo/tfi. then i would say that everything that they told you is absolutely FALSE. What they are describing is a Power Commnder not a dfo/tfi. maybe i could call this dealership and offer to send info on our product because they probably would like to be on board before the craze hits. I currently sell(TFI) to about 250 dealerships nation wide and the rest of them( except this dealership) buy direct from Custom Chrome(DFO). we are currently talking with Harley Davidson about carrying this product since the Power commnader failed. we don't talk to the ecm and we don't give false readings, we only tap into the electrical signal after (not before) the ecm to the injector and add milliseconds of time to that signal which results in more fuel, that's it,....... no special bells and whistles, no false readings, no computer manipulation. very simple and very INVISIBLE to the harley scanner. thank you for your inquiry and have a great ride. we specialize in H-D and are very good with helping over the phone on setup or any questions you might have.
george
tech dept
 

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Everything George said, only from another satisfied customer.

If the idea is so bad the Motorco wouldn't have tried bringing out their own cheap copy (Race Fueler) which is neither as effective, nor as well made nor as sophisticated (though it is more difficult to set up).

Cheers

Mike
 

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is the DFO the same as the race fuel? is the DFO better than the race fueler? which is easyist to set-up? im new to the EFI world.
 

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deuces said:
is the DFO the same as the race fuel? is the DFO better than the race fueler? which is easyist to set-up? im new to the EFI world.
No, they're not the same. See the Race Fueler thread in this section. The RF adjusts the fuel ratio in three bands which you can also set (two potentiometer screws set transition from low to midrange and mid to high, then three screws, one for low, mid and high mix). The pots don't seem to be very reliable and the effects of the settings aren't always obvious, so it's not easy to set up. Even worse, it's not load based, so it just adds a set amount of fuel in each range, which stays the same irrespective of whether you're running downhill on you own with a tailwind, or riding uphill into a headwind with a passenger and luggage. Not so good for drivability and fuel economy.

The DFO, also known as a TFI is load-based and can tell the difference between the above sorts of conditions (again see other thread), which gives better results. it's also easier to set up, partly because the people who make it (www.dobeckperformance.com) provide you with a range of basic settings and will give you advice about this over the phone whereas H-D don't give setting advice on the RF either in the instructions or over the phone, and partly because it's pretty obvious what effect the DFO/TFI settings are having. It has four pots. One affects your cruising/steady throttle/load performance. You set this up by holding a high idle (around 1800) which is a bit lumpy/erratic and then gradually tunring the screw til things smooth out. Then there's a full load/full throttle acceleration pot that you can set up based on this and determines how the bike performs when you're accelerating at higher speeds/rpms. Again it's easy to work out what sort of riding this affects and easy to fine tune the DFO/TFI to get the smoothest most reponsive performance with a little seat of the pants feedback. The third pot sets partial throttle acceleration and is often compared to an accelerator pump. You want it to be just rich enough for you to get good roll-on acceleration without drinking your fuel tank dry, so set it as lows as possible to get a good response. The last pot sets the rpm range where the system shifts from the cruising to full-load settings and must be set higher than your engine speed in your habitual cruising range. On TC88 engines that's at least a 4 setting (4000 rpm).

Because all these settings have very different, easily-observed effects and you can twiddle with the pots whenever, wherever and however you want, it's pretty easy to get things set up right by following the recommended settings for your engine/air filter/pipe and dealer flash combo, then fine tuning the cruising pot as described, followed by the others based on seat of the pants feedback and watching your fuel consumption.

Cheers

Mike
 

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thanks mike for all the info, have you heard anything about radar detectors and street light operations messing the DFO up? i have heard a few things about that. so what you are saying is i should go with a DFO instead of the race fueler because the DFO will adjust itself when it needs to where the RF will not? correct?? do i need to have the flash if i use the DFO? not required with the RF. sorry for all the Qs but im new to all this stufffff. thanks again
 

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deuces said:
thanks mike for all the info, have you heard anything about radar detectors and street light operations messing the DFO up? i have heard a few things about that. so what you are saying is i should go with a DFO instead of the race fueler because the DFO will adjust itself when it needs to where the RF will not? correct?? do i need to have the flash if i use the DFO? not required with the RF. sorry for all the Qs but im new to all this stufffff. thanks again
That's the first time I've heard the story about radar detectors etc. The DFO is just a little circuit and processor with a few potentiometers. It's no more likely to get interfered with than your stock ignition and engine management system, or your lights etc. I haven't even heard of car radios being messed with by radar detectors. Pretty unlikely....

The DFO doesn't really adjust automatically, it just works differenetly. It does all sorts of funny little things autmotatically, adding less fuel as a a percentage as the revs rise, for example, because the difference between best performance and running lean/rich decreases. The big thing is that it senses and responds to load. It can tell the difference between acceleration and decelleration and doesn't just add the same amount of fuel for a given throttle rpm range as the Power Commander and Race Fueler do.

The other things you might find important are that with the fueler you're pretty much on your own at the moment. Even the H-D help line can't/won't give advice with settings and no one has much experience with the unit. if you get a TFI/DFO you can get help direct from Dobeck and the many guys on this and other boards that use them. And that's aside form the fact that it's easier to set up properly anyway.

Cheers

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #9
TFI works well

i just installe my techlusion TFI , i oppted for this one coz revtech sucks ,, anyways the install took 30 mins and i set it to the sheet that was providedto me,, the damn bike woke right up , no more lean condition no stumbles burps farts pukes or coughs ,, i have samson pipes and NO low restriction air c;leaner as of yet ,, so far its living up to its advertising
 

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Anyone have settings for TC 95,203cams,SE performance heads, V&H Pro Pipe StageII download?
 

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LOST DFO Instruction Sheet

George,

I've had my DFO on my 2002 Harley FLHTCI for going on 3 years. After I properly grounded it, it has worked great - my only problem is that I lost my instruction and installation sheet.... Can you or someone else email me a scanned or electronic copy? If so, my email address is [email protected].

Thank you much, Bill Transue
 

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billtranz said:
George,

I've had my DFO on my 2002 Harley FLHTCI for going on 3 years. After I properly grounded it, it has worked great - my only problem is that I lost my instruction and installation sheet.... Can you or someone else email me a scanned or electronic copy? If so, my email address is [email protected].

Thank you much, Bill Transue
Hi Bill,

you can download it all from the new TFI site at http://www.dobeckperformance.com

Cheers

Mike
 

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DFO Mileage

Poseidon said:
THIS IS NOT A VALID SETUP PLEASE DO NOT USE THIS ON YOUR BIKE I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IT WOULD DO, THIS IS ONLY A FORMAT EXAMPLE

************Format Example****************

Application:
2001 & Up Softail 1450 TCB (Stage I)

Parts List:
SE Breather and Air Cleaner Kit P/N: 29440-99A
SE II Slip Fit Mufflers P/N: 80349-00A

Description:
This is the standard map for the Stage I provided by HD in the Race Tuner.

Settings:
Green 3.5
Yellow 6
Red 4.5
RPM 4

Notes:
I wanted to get this thread started, please try to keep this format on future posts. THIS IS NOT A VALID

************Format Example****************

THIS IS NOT A VALID SETUP PLEASE DO NOT USE THIS ON YOUR BIKE I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IT WOULD DO, THIS IS ONLY A FORMAT EXAMPLE



How did adding the DFO effect your Mileage. I added one to my RKC and lost 30 miles per tank. I used the default settings that were suggested.

Dog
 

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rmmagee said:
How did adding the DFO effect your Mileage. I added one to my RKC and lost 30 miles per tank. I used the default settings that were suggested.

Dog
My mileage increased slightly. Sounds like you may have the green and particuarly the yellow pots set too high. The base settings for the stock flash tend to be a little high especially where the yellow pot is concerned. What are your settings and configuration of pipes, flash, air cleaner?

It's worth experimenting starting with 1/2 o'clock settings and then 1/4 and even fractions in between when you're fine tuning. The ywllow often doesn't need to be any higher than the green.

Cheers

Mike
 

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Dfo

Michael Benis said:
My mileage increased slightly. Sounds like you may have the green and particuarly the yellow pots set too high. The base settings for the stock flash tend to be a little high especially where the yellow pot is concerned. What are your settings and configuration of pipes, flash, air cleaner?

It's worth experimenting starting with 1/2 o'clock settings and then 1/4 and even fractions in between when you're fine tuning. The ywllow often doesn't need to be any higher than the green.

Cheers

Mike
I have the SE air cleaner and Rhinehart true dual pipes with the Dealer download. My current DFO settings are Green 3 Yellow 3 Red 4

I just changed my settings. I changed the green to 3 1/4 yellow 1 and red 4
I'm not sure how the red will effect everything but it seems to be working ok. I wont't really know about my mileage until I empty the current tank. Any ideas are appreciated.

Dog
 

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Michael Benis said:
No, they're not the same. See the Race Fueler thread in this section. The RF adjusts the fuel ratio in three bands which you can also set (two potentiometer screws set transition from low to midrange and mid to high, then three screws, one for low, mid and high mix). The pots don't seem to be very reliable and the effects of the settings aren't always obvious, so it's not easy to set up. Even worse, it's not load based, so it just adds a set amount of fuel in each range, which stays the same irrespective of whether you're running downhill on you own with a tailwind, or riding uphill into a headwind with a passenger and luggage. Not so good for drivability and fuel economy.

The DFO, also known as a TFI is load-based and can tell the difference between the above sorts of conditions (again see other thread), which gives better results. it's also easier to set up, partly because the people who make it (www.dobeckperformance.com) provide you with a range of basic settings and will give you advice about this over the phone whereas H-D don't give setting advice on the RF either in the instructions or over the phone, and partly because it's pretty obvious what effect the DFO/TFI settings are having. It has four pots. One affects your cruising/steady throttle/load performance. You set this up by holding a high idle (around 1800) which is a bit lumpy/erratic and then gradually tunring the screw til things smooth out. Then there's a full load/full throttle acceleration pot that you can set up based on this and determines how the bike performs when you're accelerating at higher speeds/rpms. Again it's easy to work out what sort of riding this affects and easy to fine tune the DFO/TFI to get the smoothest most reponsive performance with a little seat of the pants feedback. The third pot sets partial throttle acceleration and is often compared to an accelerator pump. You want it to be just rich enough for you to get good roll-on acceleration without drinking your fuel tank dry, so set it as lows as possible to get a good response. The last pot sets the rpm range where the system shifts from the cruising to full-load settings and must be set higher than your engine speed in your habitual cruising range. On TC88 engines that's at least a 4 setting (4000 rpm).

Because all these settings have very different, easily-observed effects and you can twiddle with the pots whenever, wherever and however you want, it's pretty easy to get things set up right by following the recommended settings for your engine/air filter/pipe and dealer flash combo, then fine tuning the cruising pot as described, followed by the others based on seat of the pants feedback and watching your fuel consumption.

Cheers

Mike
Mike,
I've reading a lot about what you've had to say on the subject of the TFI. I'm mot a wrench or a tech, so some of what you have said is a little too technical for me, but you do have very interested in the TFI. I took a look at the TFI site and their Q & A section. One thing I'm not clear on is the answer to the question I've pasted below.

Q: Anything else I should be aware of?
A: The main problem we face is when customers try our product after they have been disappointed by the results they got from using other modification
systems or from re-mapping their own system. Because our unit relies on the stock factory fuel map, it cannot function effectively if any other
manipulation has already been entered into the existing system. You must remove any other form of fuel map modifications, chips, PC's, etc. before
using our product.

I have a 2002 EFI Soft Tail, 1550 kit, SE 203 cam’s and V & H Big Shot Longs. Does this mean that since I have a Stage II map, that I need to have it removed before the TFI will work properly?
Thanks,
Ignore my signature where it says SE 204 cams because I believe the dealer is switching them to SE 203’s because they can’t get the bike to run right.
 

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TheHarleyGuy said:
I have a 2002 EFI Soft Tail, 1550 kit, SE 203 cam’s and V & H Big Shot Longs. Does this mean that since I have a Stage II map, that I need to have it removed before the TFI will work properly?[/I]
Not that's not a problem. That Q&A is really referring to crotch rockets. The TFI is a little more sensitive (needs lower settings) with the stage 1 or 2 flashes, but works fine. If you look at Techlusion's recommended basic settings, you'll see that they also have settings for stage 2 bikes.

Why is the dealer having problems with the 204s? What else have you got in your setup. It might be worth posting on Preacher's TC list. There are alot of very knowledgable guys there.

Cheers

Mike
 

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Michael Benis said:
Not that's not a problem. That Q&A is really referring to crotch rockets. The TFI is a little more sensitive (needs lower settings) with the stage 1 or 2 flashes, but works fine. If you look at Techlusion's recommended basic settings, you'll see that they also have settings for stage 2 bikes.

Why is the dealer having problems with the 204s? What else have you got in your setup. It might be worth posting on Preacher's TC list. There are alot of very knowledgable guys there.

Cheers

Mike
Ok, here’s what I wanted to do. I have a 2002 EFI Soft Tail with the SE Stage I kit, V&H Big Shot Longs, and it was running as good as anyone could ever hope for. I asked the dealer to install the SE 1550 kit, but sub the 203 cams for the 204 cams and asked them to set the idle it at 950 RPM’s (within factory specs). I went to pick up my bike and only got about five miles from the dealership when I decided something is really, really wrong, and took it back. The bike had poor performance, seemed to be missing badly, (almost like it was running on one cylinder once it reached operating temp) and was Idling so low it was barely running. In addition to that, whenever I let off the throttle (In any gear at any RMP) I was getting a major surging effect. I no longer had smooth deceleration.

They looked at it the next day and said my V&H were not providing enough back-pressure. And that the Stage II map was for the 1550 kit, SE 203 cams with SE slip-on’s. If I were to change my exhaust back to my original Harley exhaust, it would be like night-and-day, that it would run MUCH better. With the possible factor of the SE 204 cams. (He said he has seen a couple of times where the 204 cams caused a hesitation between 2200-2500 RPM’s on some bikes using the Stage II map.) He said that after putting my original exhaust back on, If I was having that hesitation, he would switch out the 204’s for the 203 cams.

So I take the bike home, took off my V&H and put my original exhaust back on, and TaDa. . . Not a bit of Frickin’ difference. So back to the dealership the bike went. I made them give me a loaner Deuce till my bike is running right. And that’s where I am. At the moment, It sucks to be me . . .

In need of advice,
 
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