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--Doof 43--
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Ok, I think it would be best to do the work on the bench rather than go through the hell Zerk is going through. Pulling the trans should be no prblem with the engine out. Should maybe take 15 minutes or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well its back in. What a pain in the ass. I did jack engine up, gave me another 1/8". You can't even get a screw driver in the front out it, at some points. I had oil spout off for something else, so I could see in. Plus I had tranny exhaust bracket off. My side is leaking. That helped slightly

It seems to be the baffle the is part of the problem, spout hitting. Obviusly I want as much oil in my engine as possible, but could they have made it 3/8 shallower or wider or raised or something? Ya I know thats the old story in the book, when it comes to wrenching.

I sorta wish I stayed with my beleif, the brake clean is the best thing for leaky Harleys. But I've never done a pan, so wanted to learn.

If I ever had the tranny out, and had a few miles on the bike, I would put a new gasket on. Its not expensive, and would be way easier. I have no problem replacing parts that are good, if they got some miles on them, or if I have acess.


I also cleaned off the speedsoner, sice I had exhasut and starter off. Would have replaced it but matter of time. Still may. Though its nonessential, unless your coming home from the bar. I couldn't beleive the amount of shavings on it. I can't believe it even worked. Are those shavings normal too?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I do feel like a man again. The amount of up downs to tq the oil pan proves I can still wrench. Now that I have proven it, time for table lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I ran into a guy in AK, who said when he replaced his oil pan gasket he pulled the swing arm off to get more room.

I should have asked how he suppported it. I took the back tire off, and slid the axle back in and put jack stands under the axle. With the bike on a lift there wasn't good access to the oil pan. But if I do it again, I will look into this.
 

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That is the way I do it and it will give you another inch-or-so, which makes all the difference in the world. If you go ahead and pull the pivot shaft and the rear motor mounts (rubber doughnuts), you can jack the a!! end of the tranny on up high enough (put a jack under the motor) to simply slide the pan in place and push it straight up.

No more fooling with screwdrivers trying to compress springs or screwing up gaskets. I know it takes time to pull the rear mounts out, but in the long run, it makes oil pan replacement a piece of cake.
 

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Oil pans not that bad to do. Just needs good prep work.

First, before anything, make sure your lower frame crossbrace is not bent up AT ALL. If it is, you need to bend it back down for clearance.

Second, jack up the bike and remove the rear wheel.
You need to support the bike in the air somehow. I have re-installed the axle and used a pair of jacks on the axle to hold it up. Whatever you try, just make sure its secure.

After you remove all the bolts, th pan should drop down a tiny bit. When it drops, you need to get a pair of screw drivers to control the springs. Using a good light, you can barely see them and just compress them a bit and pull on the pan towards the rear.
Might take 5-6 tries, but not too bad.

Clean the pan really good and than glue the gasket to it.
When re-installing the pan careful with the gasket and springs. Make sure the springs seat flat to the tranny case before you bolt up. Than just follow the tq procedure.

Also, whiel there check the oil filler spout gasket to make sure thats not adding to the mix.
*** Do not remove rear wheel.*
To remove oil pan cut off one end of lower frame cross brace and pull down.
Oil pan will be removed under bike without removing rear wheel.
No fighting springs to get oil pan out.
Just weld lower frame cross brace back .
Harley should have made this job easier by using a lower frame cross brace removable.
 

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oh a hack saw guy... I cant abide guys who butcher bikes like that...

hey the last post to this thread,, other than yours is 9 years ago,,,, probably done now
.
 

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** Do not remove rear wheel.
To remove oil pan cut off one end of lower frame cross brace and pull down.
Oil pan will be removed under bike without removing rear wheel.
No fighting springs to get oil pan out.
Just weld lower frame cross brace back .
Harley should have made this job easier by using a lower frame cross brace removable.
Remind me to never let you near my bike.

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
 

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** Do not remove rear wheel.
To remove oil pan cut off one end of lower frame cross brace and pull down.
Oil pan will be removed under bike without removing rear wheel.
No fighting springs to get oil pan out.
Just weld lower frame cross brace back .
Harley should have made this job easier by using a lower frame cross brace removable.
Yup. Cuz when I have to take a piss I buy a 2” hole saw and drill a hole in my pants. Then after i shake I just pull out the needle and thread in my pocket and sew up my pants............

GTFOH hahahahaha
 

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not sober all the time
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** Do not remove rear wheel.
To remove oil pan cut off one end of lower frame cross brace and pull down.
Oil pan will be removed under bike without removing rear wheel.
No fighting springs to get oil pan out.
Just weld lower frame cross brace back .
Harley should have made this job easier by using a lower frame cross brace removable.
Yep, when I change the oil pump on my 1957 Cheby pickup truck, I just grab the torch and cut a hole in the pan. Braze it back up when I'm finished. I'd drop the pan but I never can find all of dem bolts.

Welcome to the forum u tube techy.
 

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Since my engine is out, can i do this from the front without removing the tire? And will it be easier thDid you end up pulling the pan through the front I also have my engine out and was thinking about the same thing ? an what our poor brother here just went through?
 
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