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Discussion Starter #1
My Fatboy has Timkin tapered bearings. The fronts went bad. I've ordered a new set, front and rear. If the fronts went bad, change out all of them.

Bearing company by me. Matched up what I have with the same Timkin bearings, race and seal.

What to do on removing the race? Buy the tool I'll most likely use once? I tryed to use my dremmel with the paper thin cut off wheel to put a / to split the race. Going slow, you can see on the wheel when you get to the aluminum as the tip turns an aluminum color when you go thru the steel. Doing paper thin cuts on depth.

A small scorr cut into the aluminum, my thinking won't hurt when I replace the race with a new one. That didn't work as it's frozen and won't move. Next I was thinking about doing a second cut. \ / to knock out the small piece to get the main piece out. Didn't do it when I found this post. Anyone ever try this? I have a Mig and know how to use it.

-> http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2009/03/04/a-neat-trick-for-removing-bearing-races/
 

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Why don't you just go to Autozone ( or something similar ) and rent ( borrow ) their bearing puller set?
 

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dude.. don't break that dremel cut-off wheel and let it fly into the motor. you'll wish you had bought 20 of those tools. :)
 

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Do a search on the forum. You said you had a MIG welder, and I remember a member saying he laid a bead down on the race and it came out. It was a while ago, so please check.
 

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I have welded the inner races and it works fine for removal.Just make sure heat and splatter don't damage surrounding areas.
 

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Just pidlin'
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Are we talking wheel bearings or engine bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Wheel bearings. I did go to Autozone to see if they had a race removal tool. No go. 3 jaw reversable pullers that had too much lip on the bottom on the straight edge to fit it into the gap. Without touching the aluminum below it. It would of grabbed the race edge cock-eyed. At an angle.

I'm just finding time to do it with my goofey work hrs. If it dosen't work, I'm going to cut a bar to weld it across the middle face of the race and center punch them out from the other side. Got it all set up with the wheel on saw horses.

Going to use the smallest amperage and wire speed to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Finally got around to it tonight. A bead around the race @ low temp and slow wire speed didn't work. Put a 2nd bead around the 1st bead @ a higher temp, faster wire speed. Still no go. The race was stuck and wouldn't move.

I have a helmut that goes clear when not welding and auto darkens when welding. I can stop and check my work as I go along. I never welded into the aluminum.

Anyone that has ever used a Mig on bodywork knows when you have a pin hole rust spot. You start to weld and the pin hole pops larger. Thin metal. Low amp and wire speed. The work around is to go to the edge of the hole to start welding to find a solid spot to weld to.

Start making a circule around the hole. Keep going till you make the circle smaller and smaller to close the hole.

This is what I did on filling up the inner circle of the race. Once done. I have a foot long 1/2 inch punch. Went to the other side to drop it in, and punch the race out. Took me about 10 min to do it for each side. No damage to the aluminum.
 
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