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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Question for the experts again. I'd like to relocate the front turn signals from the bars of my '03 Fatboy and possibly mount them to the lower mounting screws of the front accent strip. Is there a manufacteror that has a simple kit with all the hardware to do this using the stock turn signals? If so, please let me know......Thanks
:)
 

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I've been looking for the same thing & I may be wrong, but I think the Kuryakyn kit your refering to is to mount Kuryakyn's silver bullet lights on the front forks. As far as I can tell, I don't think it will work with the stock signals.
 

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I know what you're trying to do. I'm in the process of doing the same thing,there is one good thing they both use the same thread 5/16 fine thread. One way out is to use threaded rod,a chrome spacer and a chrome nut,about 1/2" long. You can use different thickness washers to adjust so it will tighten up to where it will point in the right direction when its tight. I'm working on a spacer to be able to mount a quick release windshield bracket. i haven't seen anything that you can buy yet......
 

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Here is a pic. I'm going to have a spacer made to mount a quick disconnect windshield as soon as I see the need for a windshield.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I also believe the Kuryakyn kit is for their lights only....not the stock lights.

wurkenman....thanks for the link.

Texxan. That's perfect!!! Thanks for the info and the pic. Like they say, a picture's worth a thousand words. I wasn't aware that the two were the same threads. That should make it a whole lot easier. I should be able to use a piece of all-thread, chrome spacer, and 2 jam nuts to get it to work. What did you use for the chrome spacer? Let me know what you finally end up with. Thanks again!!
 

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I remounted my stock lights down to my light bar.
The stockers look much better than the flat lights HD wants to sell you.
I couldn't get them off the handlebars fast enough.
Pictures are on the server.
 

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Just ordered the kuryakyn parts to remount my stocks. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I finally relocated my turn signals to the lower mounting holes on the fork. Turned out nice and clean. Here's what I did......I simply cut 2 pieces of 5\16x24 threaded studs about 2" long.
Got 1 chrome washer and 2 chrome nuts for each side. I had to remove the wires from the connectors from under the tank so I could spin them on the fork. First I screwed the threaded stud into the lamp housing, screwed on one of the jam nuts and tightened it against the lamp housing, screwed on the second nut and slid on the washer then screwed the whole works to the fork. Then tightened the second nut against the washer and fork. To get an idea of how it looks, there is no space between the 2 nuts. Turned out nice and only cost $6 to do!
If you've need more info, let me know. Thanks

Follow this link for a side shot of the whole bike. If you're interested in a close up of the actual mount, let me know. I can e-mail them to you.

http://harleydavidsonforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13350
 

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I'd be interested in a closeup. A few questions - where did you get the stud or threaded rod, and how did you do your wiring run - it looks real clean. I want to do the same thing. Larry
 

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I spent an entire Saturday fishing the wires and disassembling/reassembling those stupid connectors which are conveniently located under the gas tank so I could run the turn signal wires internally through the handlebars. I have too much invested to ever admit to liking the look of them anywhere but on the bars. I did however add the smoked lens covers and on a black bike they look pretty good up there. just curious...can any of these remounts still be done with passing lamps in place or is the only option with them to hang them under the passing lamps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Larry.....I've included some pictures for your reference. When I can stop spending $$ on chrome, I'll invest in a better digital camera. Until then.....

I actually cut the threads off a bolt I had in my "pac-rat" junk pile. You can get them at the hardware store. I mentioned the thread size in a previous post. As far as running the wires, I simply tucked them up behind the rear cover and tie wrapped them up so they would stay put. As logical indicates, getting to the wires and removing them from the connector can be pain. I suggest you get the manual. You don't need to remove the tank, but you do need to remove the mounting bolts so you can slide the tank back. This will allow you to get to the connector on the rightside of the frame. FYI logical, I didn't mind the look of them on the bars. My problem was that after I adjusted how I like my clutch and brake lever postioned, the turn signals were WAY too close to they tank with the bars turned all the way. And sorry, I have not researsched if this will interfere with passing lamps
 

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In order to get some "attitude" on the Fat Boy that I did, I relocated the front and rear turn signals to a box of parts that I keep in my basement.
 

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Attitude, thanks for the help - did mine yesterday - worked great. I took the wires apart in the lamps rather than undoing the connector under the tank. Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Meyerld, how were you able to remove the reflector in the housing. I tried prying them out from around the rubber seal but was afraid of breaking them.....That would have made it much easier!!
 

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After taking the plastic lens cover off, you can see the light bulb socket assembly. By unclipping the cable from the clamps on the handlebars, you can get some slack in the cable, then I pushed about an inch of cable into the turn signal housing to get some slack in the wires. With the slack, you simply take some needle nose pliers and pull up on the light bulb socket terminals (with the bulb removed). This allows you to remove the plastic circle retainer and free the wires. You can then pull the cable right out of the light bulb housing, relocate the housing, then reverse the steps to get the cable back in and the socket rewired. No cutting or soldering needed. Seemed to work well. The first one took a bit of experimenting, but once I figured it out it was a snap. Larry
 
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