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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While taking the bottom end apart, prepping for a cam change, my rear lifters got disoriented. Which way do the holes go...same as the front one's...holes toward the cam plate?

:duh?:
 

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Incredible
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prophet said:
While taking the bottom end apart, prepping for a cam change, my rear lifters got disoriented. Which way do the holes go...same as the front one's...holes toward the cam plate?

:duh?:
Your lifters forgot where they were?
 

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0043--Licensed to Doof!
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There may be a wear factor to consider, but as far as the holes go, as long as they ain't plugged up it doesn't matter. Mine were different front and rear.
 

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Delinquent
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Geezer-Glide said:
There may be a wear factor to consider, but as far as the holes go, as long as they ain't plugged up it doesn't matter. Mine were different front and rear.
I put new ones in and the ones that came out (factory installed) were opposite of what the manual called for.
 

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Not meaning to hijack this thread, but are you going to use your old lifters on new cams? I have a low milage bike and was wondering if the lifters would have to be replaced if I changed to gear drive cams. I have no experince with roller lifters. :dunno:
 

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Lifter oil bore orientation

Lifter oil bore orientation for TCs is a non issue as the lifter itself has a circumferential groove that supplies the oil from to bore in the case to the lifter. If you are into peace of mind stuff, turn the lifter to a position closest to the hole in the case bore.
 

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ride4daze said:
Not meaning to hijack this thread, but are you going to use your old lifters on new cams? I have a low milage bike and was wondering if the lifters would have to be replaced if I changed to gear drive cams. I have no experince with roller lifters. :dunno:
AFAIK roller lifters do not need to be replaced as there is no wear pattern established between the cam and the roller. If money is not an object, use the 'B' lifters as they are considered to be better than the previous HD version.
 

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Life is what you make it
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Mine were facing out as I took them out and I replaced them the same way. I have seen posts on here before about this and have heard it didnt matter. I just did my friends bike the other day and they were all facing in. I put in new lifters with them all facing out. Anything over about 25000 miles or so with performance mods I would put in new lifters.
 

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OK, next dumb question, what are "b" lifters?:hmmm:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the responses!!!

Thanks for the responses!!! It appeared like it wouldn't matter as the oil groove appeared to be going around the circumfirence of the lifter. The holes on the front one's face out the cam side so I'll do the rear ones the same. The lifters have only 6000 miles on them so they'll stay until I change over to a gear drive. The outer tensioner has a little wear so I've decided to replace it at this time also. The inner tensioner is cool.

?prty:
 

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prophet said:
While taking the bottom end apart, prepping for a cam change, my rear lifters got disoriented. Which way do the holes go...same as the front one's...holes toward the cam plate?

:duh?:

:RTFB:

The factory service manual will tell you. I'm sure you have one if you are tearing your engine apart, right? ;) If not... good luck, you'll need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Actually the factory manual doesn't tell you. It just says to put them back the way they came out ...or you could cause severe injury or death :wacko: ...not to worry, the cams are in and the bike is rockin! Mucho increaso down in the 2800 rpm range. The Woods TW-6 hits hard and pulls all the way out to 110 mph (I didn't venture further although there was room on the throttle...it's still winter and cold out here). Good recommendation HDWRENCH!
 

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IronButt
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Older manuals say in newer said out then they stopped telling you, heck youmay find they say take to your dealer to repair!! HA AH HA But with a roller you do not "need" to replace the lifter like the old flat tappet style . I tell my customer to replace them as we have seen many have a bit of ticking issue and who wants ticking after they where just in there. For 125 for a set of lifters with a life time warranty hard to say no to that.
 

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prophet said:
Actually the factory manual doesn't tell you. It just says to put them back the way they came out ...or you could cause severe injury or death :wacko: ...not to worry, the cams are in and the bike is rockin! Mucho increaso down in the 2800 rpm range. The Woods TW-6 hits hard and pulls all the way out to 110 mph (I didn't venture further although there was room on the throttle...it's still winter and cold out here). Good recommendation HDWRENCH!
Hmmmm..... they must have changed they way they write the books now. I am looking at the manual for my Dyna (you didn't state in your first post that your bike was a TC,) and it says "The orientation of the oil hole in the side of the lifter does not affect lifter performance". Guess they left that part out in the new manuals. Time for a revision.... :)
 

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Valve lifter orientation

The manual for my 2008 TC 103 says....
Install the lifters with the the oil holes facing inboard and the flats forward and rearward.My lifters oil holes were outboard.
It also says the exhaust push rod is black and the intake push rod is silver,mine were the other way round.
Bad manual or poor factory assembly are the only two possibilities.
 

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They can go either way. Just be sure to ease them into place. Don't drop them in.

Reusing tappets is not really a good idea with performance cams.
 

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Push rods

Turns out that the exhaust push rod (black) is 10.536" long
Intake push rod (silver) is 10.418" long.
My rear cylinder push rods were in backwards from the factory.
The 118 thou difference was absorbed by the lifters untill a little wear set in (35000 miles)
Then the slight intermittent top end ticking started.


2008 FLHTP
 

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Turns out that the exhaust push rod (black) is 10.536" long
Intake push rod (silver) is 10.418" long.
My rear cylinder push rods were in backwards from the factory.
The 118 thou difference was absorbed by the lifters untill a little wear set in (35000 miles)
Then the slight intermittent top end ticking started.


2008 FLHTP
I don't think so. Whenever they got swapped, it wasn't an accident at the factory. Either it was intentional, or there has been someone in there before you.
 

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Gearhead
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Most lifters for HD's have a flats on two sides. The flats face front and rear on the lifter. the pin (that keeps the lifter running straight) lines up on the flat. there are two flats as the lifter can be run ether way without issue.


Lifters do not wear like the old tappet style W/O a roller but they do wear. The first thing you will see is frosting on the wheel. Looking closely after some time you will see minute cracks in the hard facing on the wheel (and portions of cam too) Next you will see little pieces of the hard facing start to come loose (specks really). If you are still running your cam and lifters at this point...well you know the ending.
 
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