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Anyone have a clue as to why i can't seem to drive my rear axle out... i'm trying to change my rear tire and have done everything that I'm s'posed to do. For some reason my axle won't release. I'm afraid that if i try too hard i'm gonna damage something.
 

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It's probably froze in the bearing or spacer between the bearings. That's why you put the never-sieze to the axle when you re-install it. Try putting the nut back on so that it is flush with the threads and striking it with a soft mallet or block of wood and steel hammer. That should work. Use some fine sandpaper to dress the shaft before applying the never sieze when you re-install.

Welcome to the forum.

Bean
 

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DHARMA Initiative
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Did you loosen up the axle adjusters at the rear of the swingarm?
 

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As Baggersport said, it's probably frozen in the spacer. If his suggestions don't work you'll need a bigger hammer. If you do damage, hopefully its only to the axle and spacer. The spacer is just a pice of cold-rolled steel pipe that you can get at a hardware store, but the axle has to come from the moco or a supplier.

As an alternative, you could try taking the bike to a shop. Good luck, let us know how it works out.
 

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Ironsomething
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Before you start slamming away with a bigger sledge, try spraying the spacer and axle with PB Blaster. Soak it down good and tap on the axle to aid penetration. Let it sit for awhile then go after it with the sledge.
 

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jockeyshift said:
Did you loosen up the axle adjusters at the rear of the swingarm?
The factory recomends 3 full turns loose on each axle adjuster for rubber mount Sportsters & new Dyna's before removing rear axle.
 

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mine did the same. Thats because bike comed from factory with no anti-seize at all on the axell. I had to tacke it to the mech and hammer it after having spryed all sort of lubricant. Mech said me once, with a sporty, he had to remove the reare forks and had it machined to free the weel. That why now my rear axle is of inconel, a material used in airplane industry, hand made by a good machinist. But you can have, for the same price of the stock, one from W&W or others suppliers made in a cromium-molibdenum: no more rust.
I think if you have good neighbotough machinist you can also have it in inox for less. Or anly apply plenty of antiseize to yours old, it will last
 

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Also..try having someone on the ratchet turning it in the loosening direction as you hammer on the threaded end.....with a mallet that won't mess up or mushroom the threads. If you have air, put that air gun on it while hammering.

Good luck. Heck, I'm sure you have it out by now anyway. What worked?

Semper Fi,
Steve...Pensacola
USMC 1972 - 2003
 

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motardue, does that company have a website? When i took my axles off to change my wheel i had the same problem and would rather go the never rust route then the never seize and hope it fixes it way...
 

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is a deutch company http://www.ww-cycles.ch/ but they sells also overseas, I think You can have it form CC too. Chrome molibdenum is not abloolute inox but has a better resistance to rust and corrosion than the galvanized piece of the moco. Anyway, I speack only from my experience and I am not a mechanic, but I think that you rearly need it if you do plenty of road with one rubber, I mean if it last about two years, then in winter, with bike parked, oxidation comes out. If you change the rubbers once a years and you use adeguate anti-seize (I dont like graphite grease, I prefer the marine one) there should not be a problem.
Or if you can find a piece of inconel just had ithe axle done nby hands for you, is a splendid material, terribly hard and ubeatable.
 
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