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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. Planning a build for my 91 fxrs and i'm wondering if I have to stay with 1340 jugs? I want the black and chrome finish but i'm having a hard time finding these in the 1340's. (as take-off's)
TC88's wont fit, right?

Any popular build combo's for evo's? (I havent searched yet)
 

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Look on E-Bay for take-off jugs.

Any combo that a man uses is popular with him, but it really depends on your riding style. If you are mostly two up highway trips the EV-27 cam has good power from about 2,000 to 6,000 rpm and is really good in the mid range power band. And there are several others that work good too. I like adjustable push rods and stock/SE/Jim's hydo lifters. While you have the jugs off consider some higher compression pistons, like Kieth Black 9 1/2:1. They are high enough to make a different in performance but not so high they over power a stock starter. A set of manley stainless Street Preformer valves (or even the Economey Preformers), five angle cut and 175 lbs. springs are a good investment as well. An S&S Shorty E is always a good carb choice for an engine under about 92 inches and, of course, top off the cake with a good exhaust system. I like 2 into one, but you'll get as many opinions on that subject as there are bikers in a bar.

Whatever you build, it'll be fun putting it together and fun to ride. Remember, if you ain't having fun, you are in the wrong place.
 

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I recently did a "makeover" on my 1999 Evo and am quite pleased. I installed SE heads, which used with the stock pistons raised my compression from 8.5/1 to 9.5/1, not to mention bigger valves and stiffer springs. Because of that, and for monetary limitations, I stuck with the stock bore and pistons, and installed new rings while I was there. I thought about boring the cylinders but that would require new pistons and take this to another level of project--expense wise, and I decided that the gains from that mod alone weren't justified. Also put in a Andrews EV27 cam along with a Torrington bearing. After much comparing, reading and talking with shop people I settled on the 27 and got what I wanted, which was a general improvement in power from 2000-6000 RPM, although I rarely get past about 4500. Mid-range power is most important for most riders. Also replaced the lifters with SE models--kept the stock pushrods and re-jetted CV carb. I finished up by installing a Arlen Ness Big Sucker breather/filter combinaton.

I haven't dyno'd it but I can tell you the throttle response is way better than stock in any gear at any RPM. Torque is so much better that I rarely have to downshift for passing situations. It turned it into the Evo that it always should have been, IMO, and still easy to live with.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. eBay was the first place I looked but I came up short.
I already have the ev27 Cam installed. I did that awhile ago. My jugs are
looking old and i'm looking for more power so hence my desire for new bored out jugs. I'll probably go to 9:5 comp, SBC Heads, and i'll probably keep my same cam. I'm wondering what a popular or "recommended" size is for the Cu" increase for Evo's.. You know, like the 95", 98" or 103" for the twinkies...
 

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BadTwin said:
Thanks. eBay was the first place I looked but I came up short.
I already have the ev27 Cam installed. I did that awhile ago. My jugs are
looking old and i'm looking for more power so hence my desire for new bored out jugs. I'll probably go to 9:5 comp, SBC Heads, and i'll probably keep my same cam. I'm wondering what a popular or "recommended" size is for the Cu" increase for Evo's.. You know, like the 95", 98" or 103" for the twinkies...

I bored to .040 over...I think that makes it 88 inches...but math ain't my strong suite.
 

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BadTwin said:
Thanks. eBay was the first place I looked but I came up short.
I check ebay periodically (that's where I bought a lot of the parts I mentioned above, new and in original boxes for big discounts under retail) and just for kicks looked for Evo cylinders:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HARL...ewItemQQcategoryZ35572QQitemZ4591233756QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HARL...ewItemQQcategoryZ35572QQitemZ4591820313QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...ewItemQQcategoryZ35572QQitemZ4592764084QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Big-...ewItemQQcategoryZ35572QQitemZ4592814567QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harl...ewItemQQcategoryZ35572QQitemZ4592864252QQrdZ1

By the time you read this some of these may be gone and none may meet your needs but the point is to keep looking and be patient if you can. Good luck.
 

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BadTwin said:
Hi all. Planning a build for my 91 fxrs and i'm wondering if I have to stay with 1340 jugs? I want the black and chrome finish but i'm having a hard time finding these in the 1340's. (as take-off's)
TC88's wont fit, right?

Any popular build combo's for evo's? (I havent searched yet)
Well... here's what I've been running, and I love it!

I kept displacement at 80 inches. Shaved the heads to increase compression ratio to about 10:1, stock pistons, stock heads ported and flowed by a shop in Michigan. Stock diameter Black Diamond valves w/ 5-angle cut, Comp Cam valve springs, EV-27 cam, Dyna 2000i ignition, S&S Super E carb w/ Yost Power Tube (eliminated all hesitation/spitting), V&H Pro-Pipe HS exhaust. I'm getting HP and torque numbers in the 90s with this setup (enough to walk away from my friend's Stage 2 Twinkie) :D. This winter, I'll be putting a higher lift cam to take better advantage of the flowed heads... most likely the Woods W6H. Gonna need roller rockers with that cam's .590 lift. That will probably be the only changes I'll make. That should bump my torque over 100... don't care about the HP, torque is far more important for a street bike. The EV-27 cam is one of the best "bolt-in" cams for an EVO street bike. It has short duration which means more torque in the low to mid rpm range. That's why I'm going with a higher lift, rather than a longer duration cam. I want to keep the most torque in the rpm range that I ride in most.

You will notice a major improvement in perfomance by just using a good carb, cam, and exhaust. A 2-1 exhaust is the best for torque. There are only two 2-2 systems that perform well on a street EVO. They are the Python III and the Bartels systems. Nothing else compares.... Also, EVOs do not like drag pipes!! They will kill a huge amount of your torque!!

You made a good choice for a cam. A word of warning, though.... this cam makes a LOT of noise! I have seen many people waste a lot of time and money trying to get rid of the ticking. I can tell you that only about 20% of the EVOs I've seen are reasonably quite with this cam, even using the stock cam gear. This is due to the cams fast ramps, and the extreme angle that the front cyl. exhaust pushrod is at in relation to the tappet and rocker arms. This is made worse if you shave the heads. Mine makes a heck of a racket, but I don't care because it runs GREAT! It's still a lot quieter than my old XLCH. LOL!

Concerning the displacement... it doesn't really matter what's "popular". 80 inches is all you need to get plenty of torque for the street. With the right combination of parts and proper tuning on a dyno, you can easily get numbers in the high 80s to mid-90s. Even 100s are possible with more time, money, and effort. Don't just upgrade the engine size for bragging purposes. Personally, I wouldn't change the jugs/pistons unless the old ones are damaged. On the other hand, boring it .040 will give you a slight increase in power, all other things being equal.

Good luck and have fun! :)
 

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ToddM said:
Personally, I wouldn't chance the jugs/pistons unless the old ones are damaged. On the other hand, it will give you noticable increase in power, all other things being equal.QUOTE]

I completely agree. If your jugs are just "looking old" a can of Harley stain black engine paint will solve that problem. If you wan to keep the polished edges on the fins use a Q-tip and Vasiline coat them then wipe them off when the paint drys.
 

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ToddM said:
You made a good choice for a cam. A word of warning, though.... this cam makes a LOT of noise! I have seen many people waste a lot of time and money trying to get rid of the ticking. I can tell you that only about 20% of the EVOs I've seen are reasonably quite with this cam, even using the stock cam gear.
I had heard this and maybe I just got lucky but respected wrench on this board, hdm88 (I think that's his name) says to change to the original gear and degree the cam and it will run quiet. That's just what my shop did and the motor makes no more valve noise now than when stock--not much at all.
 

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sailordb said:
ToddM said:
Personally, I wouldn't chance the jugs/pistons unless the old ones are damaged. On the other hand, it will give you noticable increase in power, all other things being equal.QUOTE]

I completely agree. If your jugs are just "looking old" a can of Harley stain black engine paint will solve that problem. If you wan to keep the polished edges on the fins use a Q-tip and Vasiline coat them then wipe them off when the paint drys.

Same here. Even though I found all those cylinders on ebay, some S100 engine brightener works wonders.
 

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FXR2 said:
I had heard this and maybe I just got lucky but respected wrench on this board, hdm88 (I think that's his name) says to change to the original gear and degree the cam and it will run quiet. That's just what my shop did and the motor makes no more valve noise now than when stock--not much at all.
That's why I said that "about 20%" of the Evos with EV-27s run quiet. Yours must be one of those 20%. Consider yourself lucky! ~!Awesome!

There's no telling which bike will be quiet and which one won't. Of the probably 200 or so Evos that I've worked on over the years, it's always seemed to be completely random. I tried every trick in the book on my Dyna and it still sounds like an industrial sewing machine on steroids. :) Don't bother me none...
 

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When I first installed mine we just used the gear that came on it. Whined like a blower on a 427 Chevy ..... pretty cool sound, but not real good for the pinion gear. We changed to the gear that was on the "L" cam and, Wa-La, all you can here now is the roller rockers running.

The moral of this little saga is: use the gear on the original cam....and index it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mine doesnt make to much noise. A little more ticking than stock, but nothing to bad. I'll get new jugs for 2 reasons. The first being that i'm trying to get the beauty out of this bike that I know is there and a shiny new black and chrome set of jugs and pushrod tubes will really wake up the appearance. 2nd, I'm concerned with the strength of the stock jugs and want to increase the cc's a little and get some larger pistons.
I want 100/100 out of this build. This will be my toy, while my RKC will be my 'ol reliable cruiser. The King will be getting a standard 95" or 98" build most likely after the fxrs is complete. Probably gonna go with a build that Doc gave me, or perhaps get the 98" kit from HDWrench..
I wonder if Doc builds evo's to?
 

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BadTwin said:
...concerned with the strength of the stock jugs and want to increase the cc's a little and get some larger pistons.
I want 100/100 out of this build...
Boring an Evo jug doesn't result in any appreciable increase in displacement. Figure it out yourself: Pi * r * r * h, where Pi = 3.1417, radius = 1.749, and height (stroke) = 4.25. Then add .020 (half of .040) to r and do it again.

To increase displacement via a bigger bore, you get 3 5/8 or bigger jugs, and bore the cases to accept them.

Common displacements from bore and/or stroke kits: 88/89/96 inches. Less common as "kits" but still out there are 92/100/103/107/113/120/131 inches.

You can get 100/100 out of 80 inches--especially since it's gonna be your hot rod bike. And I don't think you need to worry about the stock jugs strength.

I can't speak for Doc, but I'm guessing that he would build an Evo for you if you didn't pester him, and just let him build you a good one.
 

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An Evo doesn't have a bottom end nearly as strong as the TC, and you can get 100 HP out of 80 inches anyhow. I tried to rationalize big bore kit for my Evo and kept coming back to the same conclusion: if I want more than 100 HP I'd be better off buying an S&S engine and hocking the stock engine.

So far as jugs go, I never really liked the black paint on the evo engines. It seemed to peel and chip easily. I don't think it was powder like the new engines. And I've never seen a good looking aerosol blackening, especially when hi-lighting the fins. If you want it to look good I'd get the jugs powdered and have the fins MILLED off, or at least carefully filed off with a big fine file (protect the adjacent fins from scuffs when trimming).

Also, I run Axtell cast iron jugs on my Evo. Found them for $100 for the pair in my local shops bargain bin. I'd wager they hold a circle better than sleeved aluminum, but that won't make enough power to overcome the substantial weight. However, I did ride from PA to Yellowstone and back without needing to add oil so the rings apparently seal very well. I also had my rings cryo'ed which supposedly improves predictable expansion (cryo can't prevent expansion but it may cause the rings to expand more circularly than eggedly).

Chilly
 

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cosmetics

as far as the cosmetics go...i had my barrels polished then powder coated wrinkle black (like stock), then bored & honed then assembled. The fins didn't have the machined look of new ones but it probably looked better. The reason i did the black wrinkle is i needed new cases when I did my build...I ordered stock evo cases from HD with my old #'s and they arrived nice new black wrinkle....so i wanted the finish to match...looked real good when all was said & done.
 

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Dupli-Color makes a ceramic hi-temp paint that look great and last. Shot it on my shovel about a year ago still looks great 7000 miles later and you can get it from any auto parts joint.
 
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