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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings Gang,
Newbie here with a renewed interested in upgrading my 2000 Softail Standard to new levels of performance.

I've read a bit thus far but am hoping to clarify proper steps to step up performance without sacrificing existing reliability. As one of my friends put it as we were on the roadside one night late, "why are we never wrenching on Bubba's schidt?" I want to keep it that way.

To be fair, the others in the group were riding custom-built bikes and I was on the "manufactured" bike.

I have made a slew of cosmetic upgrades including tires, wheels - including matching brake rotors, seat - matching concho, pegs, grips, bags, windshield, chrome this, chrome that, yadda yadda yadda.

The bike looks good basically but the only performance mods have been Screamin' Eagle plug wires, breather and exhaust. I feel the bike runs very solid aside from the occasional "belch" (which occasionally kills the motor) that I have never been able to get rid of.

So, long story I know, but I am now itching to make this looker more of a runner.

Thanks guys!

Bubba
 

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Well like they say, no replacement for Cubic Inches.......or something like that :D

Forgot to say :welcome: to the forum. You should also see this forum and introduce yourself.
 

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Cams, Ported heads, 95" big bore, change your cam bearings to torringtons, if it is fuel injected get a SERT or PC for tuning, If carb consider getting it reworked or replace with HSR42.

There is so much that can be done. What is your budget? What would you like to get out of the bike in terms of performance? How do you ride? Are you against the rev limiter all the time or do you shift at 4000? Are you a Colts fan? These are all important questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow!

Wow, that was fast!

Thanks for the "Welcome" and quick replies. Here are some previously omitted "important" details.

Budget?
$1,300 in the piggie bank so far
Colts Fan?
Nope. Packer fan (wife from Green Bay!)
How do I ride?
Commuting to work, Thursday night cruising. Occasional long-distance jaunt. I do hit the rev-limiter on occasion.
Expectations?
Dependability for getting me to work and hot performance for cruise-night "playing." (if that is possible)

PS: I like going after super-tuners! (oops, did I say that out loud)
 

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Knower of Stuff
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Are you paying for labor in that budget or are you doing it yourself?
Twice the parts and more performance if doing yourself!!?prty:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Labor?

Unfortunately, when it comes to the engine I will have to add labor. I am an IT guy so I don't have the tools for breaking down the motor.
 

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$130.00 Bore stock cylinders to 95"
$120.00 SE cast 95" Flat top pistons
$299.00 Port your heads
$360.00 SERT if it is injected ... forgot to answer that one (carb if not)
$270.00 SE 204 cams
$75.00 Misc gaskets
$$ Torrington Cam bearings.


That would be a good start to an inexpensive build that will perform well.

Sorry to hear about the Green bay thing ... But glad you still love her anyways :sofa:
 

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BubbaStacked said:
Oops. Yes, the bike is carbureted, not EFI.
That was a typical low budget build that covers all the bases, IMO.

You don't need to do all that if the budget won't support it.

You could do just the Heads, Cam and Carb and keep it at 88". That would be a nice mild build that would yield good results also. The added cost of the cylinders and pistons is minimal at that point though, IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Give Her Inches!

Thanks Springer!
Guess I'll make things offical and go down to talk with the local shop about giving her 7 more inches and see what kind of number they throw at me.

If I am going to go through the trouble of porting and such I suppose I should go for the larger pistons.
 

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BubbaStacked said:
Thanks Springer!
Guess I'll make things offical and go down to talk with the local shop about giving her 7 more inches and see what kind of number they throw at me.

If I am going to go through the trouble of porting and such I suppose I should go for the larger pistons.
If it's a dealer be carefull, remember they just want to sell you their parts. They will tell you there is no other way to do it LOL. If you get in that situation get all the numbers from them and report back here so we can all have a laugh with you. There are always other options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Shop Talk

Yes, I'm thinking of the dealership for getting my quote.

I'll come back and let you know what I learn.

Thanks for the tip.
 

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dealership quote

Just got back from my local Albuquerque NM dealership who quoted me about $1050 in labor (at $80 per hour) for gear cams, putting in the revolution 98 inch kit, and sending out the heads for work. When I showed them the online dynos for the 98 inch kit, they said " I gues you would not be interested in looking at the SE parts". I also called a Santa Fe performance shop who quoted 6 to 8 hours for the top end at $80 hour and a flat $250 in labor for the cam work.

I'm having a similar thought process about the costs mounting quickly. One option is to just go with the 26g cams now to deal with the tensioner issue and do the top end later. The disadvantage is that (1) once I do the top end I'll might want the 37g, (2) I could probably save a bit on the gear cam cost by purchasing top end parts and the cam at the same time, and (3) eliminating having to use the adjustable push rods. The second option is to start purchasing parts as the budget allows and do the build later all at once. I'm not too sure whether the commonly-recommended head porters (Dewey, Springer, Hdwrench) have exchange programs which would allow for a purchase now and sending the old heads back later.
 

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schatz32 said:
Just got back from my local Albuquerque NM dealership who quoted me about $1050 in labor (at $80 per hour) for gear cams, putting in the revolution 98 inch kit, and sending out the heads for work. When I showed them the online dynos for the 98 inch kit, they said " I gues you would not be interested in looking at the SE parts". I also called a Santa Fe performance shop who quoted 6 to 8 hours for the top end at $80 hour and a flat $250 in labor for the cam work.

I'm having a similar thought process about the costs mounting quickly. One option is to just go with the 26g cams now to deal with the tensioner issue and do the top end later. The disadvantage is that (1) once I do the top end I'll might want the 37g, (2) I could probably save a bit on the gear cam cost by purchasing top end parts and the cam at the same time, and (3) eliminating having to use the adjustable push rods. The second option is to start purchasing parts as the budget allows and do the build later all at once. I'm not too sure whether the commonly-recommended head porters (Dewey, Springer, Hdwrench) have exchange programs which would allow for a purchase now and sending the old heads back later.
Actually, Bean is the head porter (not me) and he is Baggersport on here. He typically does your heads and has a quick turn around but can also supply take off heads for porting. Typical turn around is less than 5 days in the shop. Just something to think about.
 

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BubbaStacked, no reason to waste precious hopup $$$ on your carb. The pro's here can tell you how to set it up for 1/4 the price of a Dynojet tuner kit.
 

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When deciding to build performance be careful who you go to. Many folks read articles or talk to wrenches and put in the top named parts however, the parts do not always work together well. I would read the December and January additions of American Iron mag and look up the tech articles from Donny Petersen from Heavy Duty Cycles. He takes a stock 88 and does each progressive build to the third or higher stage and explaines why he does what he does and what the parts do and can not do. Once I thought about what he said then it made a lot of sense to me why certain builds do not work well or are not reliable for everyday riding. He is not the only one who has this knowledge but far too many wrenches and even dealers think they know how to build and do not. I am sure there many here who can tell horror stories of folks who spent thousands and still can not get the bike to run as predicted. Screaming Eagle makes some good parts but there are others who make better for certain applications.
 
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