V-Twin Forum banner
1 - 1 of 1 Posts

· Registered
194 Posts
Patsue, here is what I found with the search. Was written up by killer1994. I needed the info as well about a week and a half ago:

"The book tells you but it is a bit confusing. First off make sure that the bike has no adjustment, meaning run the adjustable nut on the throttle cables all the way down to where you have total slack in the lines. then take the bike and stand it straight up with the bars straight as if your riding. you want to adjust the throttle cable adjuster (the one you turned all the way down , right by the grip) so that at full throttle your throttle cam is JUST BARELY touching your throttle cam stop you will have to look at the carb to see this, it's on the right side. WHen you open throttle to full you will be watching the linkage moving on the carb. You will see at the top right side of carb a positive stop and a tang on the throttle linkage, those are the cam stop and the cam. THey need to be JUST BARELY TOUCHING at wide open throttle. Adjust it then tighten jam nut . NExt turn the front wheel all the way to the right and adjust you idle cable (lower cable from below the grip) until you see the Idle Cable spring just get touched (this is where the cable enters the carb) it is almost impossible to see. So What I did was adjust it so that there is no "PlAY" when the throttle grip is twisted back. If there is any play there your bike will not run to it's full potential, however if it is to tight your trottle grip will NOT return on it's own when open resulting in a stuck open throttle and that could be dangerous when riding. So you want no play there and it to return on it's when letting go of the throttle with a quick smooth return. I know I didn't explian it as well as if I was doing , but if any of this helps I was glad to answer."
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.