[slo100]

For my day off on Friday with the kids in daycare I'll have a full day of peace to install a Vance & Hines Pro Pipe on my 2001 Night Train.

Any tips or tricks for installing this particular exhaust would be appreciated.

Years ago I installed a 4-1 exhaust on a Honda VFR V-4 that was about 20 pieces so this can't be as hard as that was. That was more like a plumbing project than motorcycle repair.

The Night Train is a stock 88" with S/E (K&N style) intake and Dynojet kit.

Vance & Hines tech support recommends 185/45 jets with 3 1/2 turns out on the mixture and this has all been completed.

Advice, opinions, and suggestions welcome and appreciated.

Bret

 

[ViennaHog]

For my day off on Friday with the kids in daycare I'll have a full day of peace to install a Vance & Hines Pro Pipe on my 2001 Night Train.

Any tips or tricks for installing this particular exhaust would be appreciated.

Years ago I installed a 4-1 exhaust on a Honda VFR V-4 that was about 20 pieces so this can't be as hard as that was. That was more like a plumbing project than motorcycle repair.

The Night Train is a stock 88" with S/E (K&N style) intake and Dynojet kit.

Vance & Hines tech support recommends 185/45 jets with 3 1/2 turns out on the mixture and this has all been completed.

Advice, opinions, and suggestions welcome and appreciated.

Bret

Pretty straight forward when you follow the instructions. The clamp used to tie down the muffler body to chamber is substandard, a Harley clamp from a late model should do a better job. I used installation paste for easy disassembly and sealing. Use new head gaskets and make sure that you remove the old ones. They are difficult to see, pry them out with sharp screw driver.
The header pipes do not work with the flat woven style SE gaskets, you'll have a leak there.

As to the jetting, you may want to try a slow 46, a 88 sportster needle and leave the main stock (190?) Some folks are happy with that combo

Have fun on your off day:beer:

 

[slo100]

Thanks so much for the reply!

Would you please clarify the gasket issue? You recommend new head gaskets but then imply the flat woven SE gaskets will leak. What is the solution?

Vance and Hines and my HD dealer specifically recommended the flat SE gaskets and that is what I bought. I am hoping V&H has done testing and research prior to recommending the SE gaskets.

Do we have widespread evidence of SE gasket failure with the pro pipe?

Any further information you could provide on this issue would be appreciated.

Bret

 

[ViennaHog]

Thanks so much for the reply!

Would you please clarify the gasket issue? You recommend new head gaskets but then imply the flat woven SE gaskets will leak. What is the solution?

Vance and Hines and my HD dealer specifically recommended the flat SE gaskets and that is what I bought. I am hoping V&H has done testing and research prior to recommending the SE gaskets.

Do we have widespread evidence of SE gasket failure with the pro pipe?

Any further information you could provide on this issue would be appreciated.

Bret

Well, I bought the SE gaskets to avoid the crushed standard gasket protruding into the exhaust port (it never did). I could not get the gasket to work with the V&H headpipes, always leaked. Threw them out and put the stock type back in, all good.
Maybe it screwed something up, but I doubt it. Changing pipes is my second nature, went to 5 different exhaust systems until I found the V&H ProPipe:duh?:

PS: This experience is based on a mild 95 ' build I blew up a few weeks ago.

 

[jeepwatchman]

You might need to use the conical exhaust gaskets instead of the flat ones for a better seal. When I put the Supertrapp Supermeg 2 into 1 on my Roadking I used the cone shaped gaskets and had no trouble with leaks. Picked 2 up at my local stealer for about $16.00. Hope that helps.

 

[slo100]

Oh-boy...

So now I am caught between experienced real-worlders telling me information that defies the manufacturer's recommendation. That's what I get for asking! ;-)

V&H says use SE P/N 17048-98 (flat, crushed). They made a point to mention specifically NOT to use the conical gaskets.

I already bought what V&H said to so I'll go with that and if I have a leak I'll be back here in short order.

Thanks for the input, guys!
Bret

 

[ViennaHog]

Oh-boy...

So now I am caught between experienced real-worlders telling me information that defies the manufacturer's recommendation. That's what I get for asking! ;-)

V&H says use SE P/N 17048-98 (flat, crushed). They made a point to mention specifically NOT to use the conical gaskets.

I already bought what V&H said to so I'll go with that and if I have a leak I'll be back here in short order.

Thanks for the input, guys!
Bret

It's less than $5 for the regular HD stuff, not much to get caught in.....

 

[mr2fast4u]

Not trying to start an argument but I have the VH Pro Pipe HS and installed with the recommended S/E gasket with ZERO issues

PS - your gonna love the sound of your bike.

 

[Huladog]

I recently installed my Pro Pipe on my 05 Deluxe, used the SE exhaust (not head) gaskets with no problem. Like others said, the stock ones or the SE don't cost that much so if you have a problem with one, then try the other.

I agree the chrome clamp that holds the muffler to the header doesn't work very well and ended up not even using one since the slip fit joint was so tight on mine. Probably a better idea to use the stock style H-D clamp. So far so good and no leak at that joint.

Just take your time and wiggle the headers around so they slip onto the exhaust studs, will take a bit of moving around to get both attached but take it easy so you don't ding up your cooling fins.

Follow the instructions when you tighten everything up by starting at the engine and working your way back toward the outlet, tighten up all the fasteners as you go.

Lastly, and most importantly, wipe down the pipes very well with alcohol or other cleaner BEFORE you fire them up to avoid having your greasy fingerprints and smudges end up staining your new chrome! It is real easy to be tempted to just fire her up ..... resist the temptation and clean those pipes first.

PS: Almost forgot, the Pro Pipe sounds just fine with a low rumble, not too loud, good mid-range to upper range, really helps the engine breathe.

Aloha,
Huladog

 

[murphdog]

Not trying to start an argument but I have the VH Pro Pipe HS and installed with the recommended S/E gasket with ZERO issues

Same here.

 

[slo100]

Thanks for all these responses. Great tip cleaning them thoroughly prior to starting. I am also glad to hear about the SE gaskets working out, I knew there were success stories out there so thanks for chiming in.

I can't wait to get them installed and running.

I have heard the PP on other bikes and am definitely impressed with the tone. FWIW I have 2 1/4" Samson short drag pipes on there now (from the previous owner) and am looking forward to the performance improvement as well as noise reduction...now there's a new one!

A thousand thank-yous,
Bret

 

[FXDRYDR]

slo -

I wouldn't sweat the load on gaskets. The PP is made well and fits right. I used a solid gasket and had no issues either. As mentioned, wiping them down is definittely something you should do. Acetone worked for me on the pipes and quickly cleaned up some smudges that were "baked in."

PP is a great pipe and I'm sure you'll be happy with it.

 

[Huladog]

Another thing I noticed ....

This might be all in my head but the bike does feel smoother now that I switched from the louder Cycle Shack slipons to the Pro Pipe. I think the louder pipes or mufflers send more out more vibes into the frame and floorboards.

The Pro Pipe does quiet down at cruise which is nice.

One more tip, like the instructions will tell you, loosen the floorboards to give you just a bit more clearance for the headers to drop into place .... what they mean is to remove just the chrome & rubber floorboard itself (pivot screws underneath) and NOT the mounting bracket (which is torqued down real tight).

Won't look like much more space but you really need that extra 1/4 - 1/2 inch of clearance for the header to drop in.

PS: I just noticed that you had a VFR, another bike that I'm also looking for!

Aloha,
Huladog

 

[slo100]

Done!

No leaks with the SE gaskets. Very easy install. Thanks for the help and tips, gentlemen!

Any one want to buy a set of used Samson shortie Big Guns?

 

[Huladog]

Lookin' Good!

Looks great. Now that I've had to clean and polish all the shiny chrome engine parts on my Deluxe, the Night Train with the black crinkle finish ain't so bad after all!

Aloha,
Huladog

 

[bullgo]

Wow Looks good!

I sure like the looks of that on your train!!!! I've been wearing myself out trying to decide what to put on my 02 Fat Boy,,,looking for something that is low enough to be able to get the axle out without having to remove the exhaust,,,after looking at you pics,,,looks like the pro pipe would work,,,everything I've looked at that shows a picture of the install on Vance and Hines website shows the pipe to be even with the axle so I would have the same problem as I do with the shotgun mufflers,,,,been considering the Big Shots Staggered but they just sound too loud!!! Afraid they might be too annoying,,,,has anyone installed the pro pipe on a Fat Boy and have a picture they could post? I'm pretty sure with the train and fat boy both being softail they should run fairly close to the same lines?? Just don't want to get a pro pipe and then still have it block the axle removal!!! Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!!!

 

[ViennaHog]

Just don't want to get a pro pipe and then still have it block the axle removal!!! Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!!!

You can REVERSE THE AXLE :woohoo: :yikes:

Did it on mine, no issues as long as the safety pin is in locked position and the nut is torqued properly.

 

[bullgo]

curious

ViennaHog,,,,I had asked the dealer down the road about reversing the axle and they said it was made to run the way it comes from the factory,,,sounds like you have done it and it works,,,just looking at it,,,I can't tell any difference on the load bearing surfaces,,,,just curious why did you ended up reversing yours if you are running the Pro pipe,,,does it still block the axle? Also even I reverse the danged axle I still can't get to my jamb nut on the axle without having to jack with the muffler on the stock exhaust,,,,listening to the pro pipe on Vance and Hines site,,,it sounds good and deep toned and not tinny sounding at all,,,,just want to make sure the muffler on the pro pipe rides low enough on a 02 fat boy to clear the axle!!! Thanks for the info!!

 

[ViennaHog]

Take a look at my profile pic (double click on the little pic upper left corner) and you should see my bike's exhaust side. The nut easily clears the exhaust, but asd I mentioned you have to reverse the axle. In the unlikely event that a wheel bearing seizes entireley and rapidly, the turning axle could then open the nut after the forces have destroyed the safety pin. Well in case the wheel bearing seizes, you'll end up in a low sider anyway and you don't care if the axle comes out a few seconds later, don't ya?

 

[slo100]

Woo-Hoo

Well,

I braved the cold and put in a couple hours of riding in today. The Pro Pipe is light years better than the drag pipes were. As many here are 2-1 believers this is not news. The low-mid pull this pipe added is amazing and brings the bike into an entirely new element. I was able to get in some sustained 75mph riding along with stop and go traffic. What a great purchase this was.

The idle is smooth, throttle response is crisp, and it is a dream to ride.

When is spring again?

Bret