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Hold it right there.

This is a common problem and it will cause you untold grief if you don't fix it right.
There are two of those screws that hold the serrated steel piece the tensioner shoe adjusts on to the inner primary.

Remove the outer primary (need to remove the heel shifter and left floor board) and the adjuster shoe, and then remove the two screws that hold the serrated adjuster to the inner primary. Clean the threads real well with carb cleaner or something and then use Loctite primer and Red Loctite to reinstall these screws.
If you don't they will come out break the inner primary and totally chew up the primary drive.

Easy to do, but don't cut any corners.

It also makes it real easy to adjust the primary to spec. LOL.

Smile, you just saved yourself a boatload of money.
 

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How do you torque a Phillips head screw? :D

Some late bikes have the same screws but with a Torx head. If you get some of them then you can use the general torque spec for the given size fastener from the general torque specs in the manual.

I just tighten a lot of this stuff by feel, but I have been doing it all my life.


Try to cut the "couple of weeks" down as much as you can. It may well be that nothing will happen, but if it does it will be very expensive.

Don't get me started on the automatic tensioners.
 

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Don't have much time now, let's just say the hydraulic unit is superior to the M6 if you have to have one.

Keep in mind that in this application the direction of loadind reverses violently on sudden or high speed downshifts. The direction of loading also reverses on starting.

The more engine you have the more of an issue you have with the automatic tensioners.
 
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