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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just thought i would share this. I had a shop in Australia fit a S&S 4 3/8 Crank kit to my 01 softail. I heat cycled the motor with big Fans for cooling. Ran it on road varying speed on a cool day for 50 miles on Mineral oil, then swapped out for Syn & new filter. i run motor in on cool days & changing oil & filter after each day of around trip of 300 Miles. Until i got to 2000 Miles. The motor was performing well. The next oil change i fitted a Reusable Filter with magnets as i do on most bikes i service. Next oil change at 1500 Miles i found metal in filter. Should have cut open the stock filter and This Would have saved Big $. Here is what i Found. Look at the pic and you see when he pressed it in it was pushing hard on the lower section removing manufactures lettering.
Causing Causing it to Fail.
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Can't say as I've ever heard of using mineral oil, although it is petroleum based. Did you swipe it off your wife's dressing room table? I know there are light and heavy grades, and I use some mineral gun oil. But it would seem to be kind of pricey to go that route. I guess you could always use any you had left over as a stool softener.

I think I would stick with a regular dinosaur-based motor oil, if I ever find myself in the break-in phase again.

Were you getting any unusual noises or motor vibrations before that last oil change? And did you bring this to the attention of somebody at the shop? Just asking.
 

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Well we could get down to all kinds of nuances but the bearing is bad, sent metal throughout the motor, and now a full teardown and cleaning / inspection is in order, sorry to say. May I recommend you engage a professional? I suggest Hood Motor Service in South Australia.
 

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Ouch! Did he hammer those bearings in? Curious how they were installed. Also I've never known anyone to use mineral oil for a break in. What's the science behind that?
 

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The crack, fissure between the bearings may not be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well we could get down to all kinds of nuances but the bearing is bad, sent metal throughout the motor, and now a full teardown and cleaning / inspection is in order, sorry to say. May I recommend you engage a professional? I suggest Hood Motor Service in South Australia.
SO i Replaced all cam bearings , cams , oil pump, lifters. He is my work.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In Australia oil is named Synthetic. And Mineral oil . Dont now what they call it over there,. Hoody installed the bearing
 

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In Australia oil is named Synthetic. And Mineral oil . Dont now what they call it over there,. Hoody installed the bearing
Here in the states we call mineral motor oil, Dino. Mineral oil to us is the very thin oil, like sewing machine oil.
 

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You repaired the obvious, but those metal flakes went through out the engine,, crank bearings, rod bearings, top of the heads, oil tank , etc. There could be other damage or flakes still stuck some wheres waiting to get free.At the least Clean everything GOOD, and probably good to drop the tank for a good cleaning. With the new crank, will the builder guarantee it,, I doubt S&S will.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok thanks that clears that up as did not now what the other replies were on about. I used Mineral 20-50 motor oil to seat the rings for the first 50 miles. Then swapped to Synthetic 20-50 motor oil. The reason the bearing failed was because it was not aligned at the start off press in. It was not cracked it had pressure on the caseing not letting needle rollers to turn freely
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You repaired the obvious, but those metal flakes went through out the engine,, crank bearings, rod bearings, top of the heads, oil tank , etc. There could be other damage or flakes still stuck some wheres waiting to get free.At the least Clean everything GOOD, and probably good to drop the tank for a good cleaning. With the new crank, will the builder guarantee it,, I doubt S&S will.
Ok thanks that clears that up as did not now what the other replies were on about. I used Mineral 20-50 motor oil to seat the rings for the first 50 miles. Then swapped to Synthetic 20-50 motor oil. The reason the bearing failed was because it was not aligned at the start off press in. It was not cracked it had pressure on the caseing not letting needle rollers to turn freely
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Motor and oil tank cleaned. Have drain engine case after every ride no metal only case sealer cam out. Fitted a filter to return line cut open after 500 miles no metal . Changed oil and cut open genuine 5 micron filter no metal. I have 5000 miles since all good. No metal. The post was all about pressing in inner cam bearings
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Motor and oil tank cleaned. Have drain engine case after every ride no metal only case sealer cam out. Fitted a filter to return line cut open after 500 miles no metal . Changed oil and cut open genuine 5 micron filter no metal. I have 5000 miles since all good. No metal. The post was all about pressing in inner cam bearings
 

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Hope you have continued good luck. I freeze my bearings and install cold to help with install. How do you like the stroker, I have an 05 fatboy, bored to 95" with stock crank,
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The area between bearings is not cracked it is raised casting mark it looks like it as oil as sitting on it if you look at pics after motor was cleaned and new bearings fitted you see what i mean
 

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I'm surprised you didn't go with the later, stamped style breathers. 17025-03A. A lot cleaner, more efficient design. Been stock since somewhere around 2011. Also, the screws are a little shorter. 2 new ones are cheaper than the rebuild kits for the old ones.

Motor Oil here is called conventional or synthetic, depending on the base stock. Conventional is a petroleum base mineral oil, but it's not usually called mineral oil. Also, there are blends, 50-50 conventional and synthetic, like I use in my car. What's called mineral oil here is like for cosmetics, medicines, laxatives. It is petroleum based, as opposed to plant-based oils, or animal-based oils. It's not a very precise term.
 
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