The impact driver should help a new bit driven into the relatively soft screw grab that stripped head. Let us know how it goes.
Preferred Tool to Remove Stuck Derby Cover Screws
hi Folks, I've been doing quite a bit of research since discovering I cannot budge the derby cover screws on my Sporty. I understand it's a common issue. After trying the easy way with a T27 bit and a normal wrench and getting nowhere, I have devised two possible ways to move forward. I've bought a 1/2" square to adapt my T27 impact bits to both these tools described below.
1. Use my rattle gun. This is a standard air driven rattle gun like used in a tire shop to change wheels on a car. As I understand it the impact action of this machine is torque only. I could also reduce the air pressure to the gun to perhaps give more control.
2. Use my old impact driver. This is the type that you hit with a hammer and it simultaneously results in force inwards and rotation torque.
I'll try to upload photos. Which do you think is the better approach?
1. Use my rattle gun. This is a standard air driven rattle gun like used in a tire shop to change wheels on a car. As I understand it the impact action of this machine is torque only. I could also reduce the air pressure to the gun to perhaps give more control.
2. Use my old impact driver. This is the type that you hit with a hammer and it simultaneously results in force inwards and rotation torque.
I'll try to upload photos. Which do you think is the better approach?
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at this point,, get out the drill... use a 1/4" bit, drill straight into the torx head area,,,, when the bit clears where the head changes to threads, the head will snap off, and remain on the bit... stop drilling as aoo as the head breaks off...
after you have the derby cover off, you may attempt to remove the screw with a good pair of vice grips,, after hearing the screw to appx 400°F with a propane torch... or,,,,
If there isn't enough screw protruding,,, and depending on your skills with a drill,, (no offense, but by the trouble you've had with this, so far, I would say low),,, take the cover off and use a drill press to insure you drill a straight hole.. start at about 1/8" and go up incrementally until you reach the correct diameter hole for the screw extractor,,, remember to heat the screw, before attempting to remove it..
snapon makes a really great extractor set.. ... i highly recommend it, or you can buy just the size you need,,, snapon sells to the public through a web site, or over the phone...
The part # for the tool that extracts 1/4" screws is #E1 you will need a sharp drill bit in addition to this tool...
after you have the derby cover off, you may attempt to remove the screw with a good pair of vice grips,, after hearing the screw to appx 400°F with a propane torch... or,,,,
If there isn't enough screw protruding,,, and depending on your skills with a drill,, (no offense, but by the trouble you've had with this, so far, I would say low),,, take the cover off and use a drill press to insure you drill a straight hole.. start at about 1/8" and go up incrementally until you reach the correct diameter hole for the screw extractor,,, remember to heat the screw, before attempting to remove it..
snapon makes a really great extractor set.. ... i highly recommend it, or you can buy just the size you need,,, snapon sells to the public through a web site, or over the phone...
The part # for the tool that extracts 1/4" screws is #E1 you will need a sharp drill bit in addition to this tool...
focus the heat on the cover not the screw. Purpose is to:, after hearing the screw to appx 400°F with a propane torch... or,,,,
1. break loose any loctite
2. cause the screw hole to expand more than the the screw so there is less grip by the threads.
Was that an air or hammer driver?
Looks like a hammer type impact.Was that an air or hammer driver?
YEP..........hammer type. I have an air driven "rattle gun" but it is rated too high and I'm sure it would have jumped out because there is no axial force, only torque.Was that an air or hammer driver?
Damn.... you'd think force from the hammer would drive that bit deep into the screw to avoid slipping like that.YEP..........hammer type. I have an air driven "rattle gun" but it is rated too high and I'm sure it would have jumped out because there is no axial force, only torque.
Have a closer look at the photo of the screw head. There was no slip, the torsional force has yielded the internal lugs.Damn.... you'd think force from the hammer would drive that bit deep into the screw to avoid slipping like that.
Wasn't there one of those yellow icons eating crow? :laugh:Damn.... you'd think force from the hammer would drive that bit deep into the screw to avoid slipping like that.
No $hit. Crow or hat, I could have used one.Wasn't there one of those yellow icons eating crow? :laugh:
Drill next?
Edit - Just my way, I put drilling and tapping off till I've exhausted everything else. I'd probably try hammering an oversized bit in there first, it that didn't work I'd cut a slot and try a large straight bit. Add heat.
If they don't work, then I'd drill. But again, that's just me.
Take the whole outer off, apply heat to the back side of the screw boss then repeat the process with the impact driver.
Just for grins, what size is that driver?
Just for grins, what size is that driver?
Just a comment after reading this thread. I've never had the first trace of trouble removing derby cover screws. So in this case, did somebody really use a bunch of red loctite or what? What could crank a derby cover screw on this tight? Wrong screws entirely (metric thread?).
if the torx heads are thoroughly trashed it's time to get the drill out
..i would suggest a 1/4" left hand bit.. one of 2 things will occur,, the bit will catch the screw head and spin it out or after going about 1/8" in the heads of the screws will come off....then remove the derby cover and proceed... the E1 snapon screw extractor would be my choice if it becomes necessary... it may be possible to use vice grips and heat to melt the loctite..
all the popular methods have been offered,, the rest is up to the OP... if the screws need to be drilled and an screw extractor used,, i would recommend removing the cover and using a drill press...
..i would suggest a 1/4" left hand bit.. one of 2 things will occur,, the bit will catch the screw head and spin it out or after going about 1/8" in the heads of the screws will come off....then remove the derby cover and proceed... the E1 snapon screw extractor would be my choice if it becomes necessary... it may be possible to use vice grips and heat to melt the loctite..
all the popular methods have been offered,, the rest is up to the OP... if the screws need to be drilled and an screw extractor used,, i would recommend removing the cover and using a drill press...
I was thinking the same thing. But I didn't look at the bike and thought maybe it was new. Never had a new bike before.Just a comment after reading this thread. I've never had the first trace of trouble removing derby cover screws. So in this case, did somebody really use a bunch of red loctite or what? What could crank a derby cover screw on this tight? Wrong screws entirely (metric thread?).
I'm just here for the beer.
None of the others gave him problems, I doubt loctite on just one screw. Maybe cross thread, can't tell by pic if the head is flush with cover, but I imagine it's just a case of too tight, butter soft fastener head and maybe a little dissimilar metal action.
If drill is necessary I like TT's advice on left hand drill. I've used them in the past with success. But by now my patience would have been long gone and I doubt the OP has a 1/4 left hand bit laying around. Waiting for one to come in the "post" wouldn't fit my mood.
I commend the OP on his patience.
If drill is necessary I like TT's advice on left hand drill. I've used them in the past with success. But by now my patience would have been long gone and I doubt the OP has a 1/4 left hand bit laying around. Waiting for one to come in the "post" wouldn't fit my mood.
I commend the OP on his patience.
I've also used a air chisel to back out stuck bolts. You need to be extremely careful as it can jump off the bolt and ding the chrome. Better method if not time limited is drill off the head as was already suggested.
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Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
If you have a soldering gun (the real ones with buku wattage) this can work. I will do this if the screw is surrounded by something I don't want to discolor with a torch. The bigger the screw though the less effective.One of the ways to break lose stuck bolts on a car is to heat the bolt with a torch and touch a candle to it. The wax gets wicked in to the heat. With your situation, I was thinking that touching a soldering/wood burning tool to the screw might heat it up enough to break loose the screw.
All of the 6 screws are stuck. One was butchered by the owner(s) before me and I have butchered one with my efforts. Not going to butcher them all. I'm exercising patience because right now the bike can still be ridden. The moment I drill the head off I'm committed and will not be able to shift the bike without a trailer. Still pondering my next move.
On the unbutchered screws try a 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid (any brand) leave about two hours to soak in then try to remove with T27 works a lot better than any penetrating oil on the market!
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