Impact Driver, but try putting the torx in the screw and hitting it with a hammer a few times. Might loosen them up a bit.
Preferred Tool to Remove Stuck Derby Cover Screws
hi Folks, I've been doing quite a bit of research since discovering I cannot budge the derby cover screws on my Sporty. I understand it's a common issue. After trying the easy way with a T27 bit and a normal wrench and getting nowhere, I have devised two possible ways to move forward. I've bought a 1/2" square to adapt my T27 impact bits to both these tools described below.
1. Use my rattle gun. This is a standard air driven rattle gun like used in a tire shop to change wheels on a car. As I understand it the impact action of this machine is torque only. I could also reduce the air pressure to the gun to perhaps give more control.
2. Use my old impact driver. This is the type that you hit with a hammer and it simultaneously results in force inwards and rotation torque.
I'll try to upload photos. Which do you think is the better approach?
1. Use my rattle gun. This is a standard air driven rattle gun like used in a tire shop to change wheels on a car. As I understand it the impact action of this machine is torque only. I could also reduce the air pressure to the gun to perhaps give more control.
2. Use my old impact driver. This is the type that you hit with a hammer and it simultaneously results in force inwards and rotation torque.
I'll try to upload photos. Which do you think is the better approach?
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I usually use the hammer driver as it also drives bit into the socket to cut down on stripping hole.
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Try a manual impact driver. Cheap and something you should have around. Don't use air or electric one
The other option is try to loosen it with a tap on the edge of the head with a screw drive to loosen it. It it was locited a few good raps head on often lose it some.
If all else fail drill the head off carefully once cover is off it will often comes out real easy.
If your torx is stripped a bit try hammering in the next larger size.
The other option is try to loosen it with a tap on the edge of the head with a screw drive to loosen it. It it was locited a few good raps head on often lose it some.
If all else fail drill the head off carefully once cover is off it will often comes out real easy.
If your torx is stripped a bit try hammering in the next larger size.
The best tool to remove those screws, is a high quality 3/8" drive, T27 socket,, in an air powered 3/8" impact wrench, like an ingersol... it's what we use in the shops....
An impact driver is a good to have tool,, it sometimes can break a screw loose if you do not have access to an impact wrench..
he doesn't say he has damaged the torx head,, so all the methods to remove damaged fasteners are indeed helpful, as was the one I had posted,,, but we are getting ahead
of ourselves...
usually the problem is cheap poorly made torx tools, followed by scamming out while applying force... leading to the drill... the drill is always my last resort. after all else fails... I have seen home mechanics cause extensive damage with a drill, slipping of the steel bolt and punching a hole in the softer aluminum
An impact driver is a good to have tool,, it sometimes can break a screw loose if you do not have access to an impact wrench..
he doesn't say he has damaged the torx head,, so all the methods to remove damaged fasteners are indeed helpful, as was the one I had posted,,, but we are getting ahead
of ourselves...
usually the problem is cheap poorly made torx tools, followed by scamming out while applying force... leading to the drill... the drill is always my last resort. after all else fails... I have seen home mechanics cause extensive damage with a drill, slipping of the steel bolt and punching a hole in the softer aluminum
If you have to drill , remember these screws are Grade 5 or 8 and fairly hard. Use a cobalt drill bit and a slow drill speed. Air-powered drills are way too fast nd will only burn up the drill bit.
I generally go in with a 3/32 pilot drill first. It will walk less and go straighter. Go slow , use oil. Then open it up with a 9/64 or 5/32 , whichever your screw extractor calls for.
I generally go in with a 3/32 pilot drill first. It will walk less and go straighter. Go slow , use oil. Then open it up with a 9/64 or 5/32 , whichever your screw extractor calls for.
None of you guys recommend an initial step of using Kroil or PB Blaster and a light touch with a heat gun & then proceeding with your preferred removal methods ?
Always seems to help me getting out a tough one.
Always seems to help me getting out a tough one.
^^this! Usually worksImpact Driver, but try putting the torx in the screw and hitting it with a hammer a few times. Might loosen them up a bit.
Hasn't failed me yet^^this! Usually works
I'm generally opposed to hitting cast aluminum parts with a hammer , but Lisle sells a neat little impact driver just for 1/4in hex bits.
Heat
One of the ways to break lose stuck bolts on a car is to heat the bolt with a torch and touch a candle to it. The wax gets wicked in to the heat. With your situation, I was thinking that touching a soldering/wood burning tool to the screw might heat it up enough to break loose the screw.
One of the ways to break lose stuck bolts on a car is to heat the bolt with a torch and touch a candle to it. The wax gets wicked in to the heat. With your situation, I was thinking that touching a soldering/wood burning tool to the screw might heat it up enough to break loose the screw.
Can you find me a link to that? I looked but can only find 1/2 inch drive.I'm generally opposed to hitting cast aluminum parts with a hammer , but Lisle sells a neat little impact driver just for 1/4in hex bits.
Some reports I've read contradict this. There is only 1/4" of the screw to grip and if it was loktited in you are in trouble.If all else fail drill the head off carefully once cover is off it will often comes out real easy.
Is there any tendency for the driver to cam-out? You'd obviously need to use body weight to keep up solid inward pressure on the tool?The best tool to remove those screws, is a high quality 3/8" drive, T27 socket,, in an air powered 3/8" impact wrench, like an ingersol.
009 you are absolutely.correct on both assumptions....
The screws are loctited in, drilling the heads, will only create further problems... like taking the outer primary off, and using a drill press to drill a straight hole.. ez outs dont do well.with loctite..
.if you drill the heads, use a 1/4" drill bit, and drill.straight into the torx head,,, the head will break.off, as soon as you reach the threads. Don't bother with all that increasing bit sizes,, get the head off and take it from there..
The screws are loctited in, drilling the heads, will only create further problems... like taking the outer primary off, and using a drill press to drill a straight hole.. ez outs dont do well.with loctite..
.if you drill the heads, use a 1/4" drill bit, and drill.straight into the torx head,,, the head will break.off, as soon as you reach the threads. Don't bother with all that increasing bit sizes,, get the head off and take it from there..
If you work on your bike much you'll find an air impact driver one of the best investments you'll ever make. In the old days a lot of the fasteners were phillips head -- what a nightmare trying to remove without buggering the head. Bought a hammer type impact driver that served me well for years, but hard to reach some fasteners. The air impact driver pretty well solved that. Now I have 3 different sizes depending on the job.
Not sure exactly what this is. Can you please post a photo or link. Is it like this one?If you work on your bike much you'll find an air impact driver one of the best investments you'll ever make. In the old days a lot of the fasteners were phillips head -- what a nightmare trying to remove without buggering the head. Bought a hammer type impact driver that served me well for years, but hard to reach some fasteners. The air impact driver pretty well solved that. Now I have 3 different sizes depending on the job.
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You haven't been fukin' around with that screw for a week have you?
Just wack it with a hammer driver and be done with it.
Just wack it with a hammer driver and be done with it.
I only just got the T27 impact bits in the post mid-week, and I work all day. Prolly give it a whack this Sunday. There's 6 screws. Four are in good shape, one is a bit gnarly and the 6th will be a problem coz some dumbass has already had a T25 in it and minced it somewhat.You haven't been fukin' around with that screw for a week have you?
Just wack it with a hammer driver and be done with it.
Hit the cover with a propane torch before trying the EZ out. The torch will break loose the loctite. Try not to get the bolt hot you want the cover to expand and make the hole larger not the bolt to expand and get tighter.The screws are loctited in, drilling the heads, will only create further problems... like taking the outer primary off, and using a drill press to drill a straight hole.. ez outs dont do well.with loctite..
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