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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I'm curious as to what you guys think. I have seen it posted a few times that ported heads don't do much on a mild S.E.203 or Andrews 26 type build.
I have most of the stuff to do a 95 with 203's this winter. Money is always an issue. This build is in a Road King and I have a fatty, so I am just looking for some midrange umph.
Would you build it with ported heads and stock dresser exhaust or use stock heads and use the $400-500 towards a good 2>1 exhaust. I won't be able to afford both this year. I have never seen any dyno's that compare stock to ported on the same bike. If anybody knows of any please let me know.

Thanks, Murf
 

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I'd go for the exhaust. Save your money and do your engine work all at the same time. Do it (the engine) right...once.

TC
 

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In my opinion, head work, by someone who knows what they're doing, is the single most imortant component to tie everything together. That is, as long as everything else is done right.

I had headwork done with my original build of SE slip-ons with the stock headers, SE 203, 95" and PC with dyno tune. Bike ran exceptionally.

I'd do the heads now and get the 2 into 1 later when you could afford it. Cost a LOT less than to do a 2 into 1 now and have to pull the heads later to have them done.
 

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killer sperm
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The heads with slipon's or punched out stock mufflers will net you more than a 2-1, IMO.
 

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I paid.........did you??
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I would go with Big Boyz heads right now for $400(ported/polished/cc'd/milled)..........it's a lot easier to swap the exhaust later but do the heads now while you'll have them off anyhow.

To take the heads off later on is a lot more work then just swapping pipes.

Give Bean a call and he'll take care of you with the headwork...........he's very familiar with the build you are putting together.

Steve
 

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Terry C said:
I'd go for the exhaust. Save your money and do your engine work all at the same time. Do it (the engine) right...once.

ditto
and heavy on the do it right the 1st time around
if the pipes wont flow ported heads wont do a dang thing for ya
do the 2into 1 first
then save more money and parts to finish it later
why do a stage 2 before the stage 1 is done
kinda like cooking your steak on a cold grill aint gona do much
 

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I'd add a vote for Big Boyz, I had a mild (510 lift cam) 95 that did very well with headwork and SE slip-ons (98/101) id did improve about 5-6 with V&H pro-pipes later , but I agree the heads are a worthwhile investment.

My current bike has the 103/SE 255 kit , and no headwork .. you can tell the difference . DOwn the road .. heads 4 sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
O.K. I see that most of you say, port the heads. That is what I will probably do, but let me pose a different question.

Has anybody seen exactly what kind of power is gained by porting with a mild cam? I know it is hard to compare dynos from different places. I have compared some at HTT and Latus, and don't really see a big difference. Is there something I am missing here?

Thanks for all the replies. I welcome all the advice.

Later, Murf
 

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I think for the build you are after at this point you are asking the wrong question. Paper dyno sheets are kinda meaningless. What you need to do is to ask the guys who have done what you want to do what their butt dynos are telling them.
 

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Heads

We offer several levels of heads at or shop, starting at 495.00 for a Stage I set, up to Stage IIII Vortex, with c/r's,corrected geometry,cc'd, with 2" intakes, and Bob Wood 188 psi springs, for 1530.00.
 

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Murf2 said:
O.K. I see that most of you say, port the heads. That is what I will probably do, but let me pose a different question.

Has anybody seen exactly what kind of power is gained by porting with a mild cam? I know it is hard to compare dynos from different places. I have compared some at HTT and Latus, and don't really see a big difference. Is there something I am missing here?

Thanks for all the replies. I welcome all the advice.

Later, Murf
:corn: Good Question, I would like to see/hear that. Has anyone ported their heads and installed them with no other mods on a mild build(not a high compression high lift cam monster. We know they work in that application) and what was the outcome. Better low end,Top end,ect...
 

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hugie03flhr said:
:corn: Good Question, I would like to see/hear that. Has anyone ported their heads and installed them with no other mods on a mild build(not a high compression high lift cam monster. We know they work in that application) and what was the outcome. Better low end,Top end,ect...
Ask the guys with the AMS builds....:yes:
 

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I went with Big Boyz, very happy.

You can click my signature to see the dyno sheet.
 

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There are all levels of head work and cams but my gut feeling tells me the best way for you to go is start with the cam if money is a big issue and get a cam that will give the best results with or without head work. For instance the RR525 can be used with or without head work and give good results with a decent a/c and pipes that will turn into great results later when you do the head work. The 203 will not do that in my experience. I probably don't have to reiterate my preference on heads.
 

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Go with 26 cams and have GMR do some of his budget work on your heads and find a set of used take off mufflers to throw on your stock headers. I had Steve at GMR do a set of budget heads and heads looked very good. I just helped with 2 AMS builds and for the money the GMR heads look pretty hard to beat. The AMS heads had the thremo coating in the exhaust port but on one of the sets of heads the coating was all bubbled and not that impressive looking. Both sets of heads were for their 96 inch kits and both heads looked completely different in the ports. They are supposed to be CNCed but the porting was not the same. AMS uses stock valves. The AMS heads were $573 and GMR does their budget work for considerably less and that includes CCing, decking to desired comp ratio, and new kibblewhite valves.

Hopefully if the weather holds out we will be able to have a direct dyno comparison between the 3 builds.
 

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This thread started with the question, head work or exhaust?, In my opinion the headwork first is a no brainer for the reasons stated, easier to add exhaust later, although it would require a retune, but the bagger exhaust with a set of slip ons will run quite well. I built an 06 RoadKing withSE slipons, stock headpipes, Bigboyz heads, Andrew 37B cams, 95 inch and compression set at 9.6 to 1. The bike has excellent torque and pulls well from down low and does not sign off too early, cool, quiet running, no pinging, We rode together with my own bike and we both pulled loaded trailers 3500 miles from WI to Idaho around Yellowstone and Beartooth etc and the RoadKing really impressed me how well it handled the trailer with bike loaded 2up, all while getting around 40 mpg while doing it.
The 37 build with Bigboyz heads and chain cams is just about the best bang for the buck I have seen and definately has enough low end torque for any kind of riding you intend to do. You did say money was a factor.
 

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Do a search using the 26 as reference and read the dynos that they have...
Some of the guru's here and there have stated and are convinced that using the 26's that stock compression and no head work really allows the 26's to shine and that the addition flowing of the heads with heads worked is not needed...

So with that said, your first question to yourself should be is narrowing down what cams your actually going to use...

If the 26's are the ones you have chosen then get a good 2-1 and rock on however if the choice is the 203 then get the heads worked 1st and then later the performance pipe...

best of luck on which ever route you decide on going...
paul
 
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