V-Twin Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody got anything either negative or positive to say about POR 15 rust preventative products? I just bought a small starter kit to touch up two small sections of my frame underside under the bike at the back wheel where 9 years of sand and gravel roads has taken it's toll! I heard this was the cats meow! Recommendations?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11 Posts
rickr01 said:
Anybody got anything either negative or positive to say about POR 15 rust preventative products? I just bought a small starter kit to touch up two small sections of my frame underside under the bike at the back wheel where 9 years of sand and gravel roads has taken it's toll! I heard this was the cats meow! Recommendations?
I have had excellent results with their products. I've not used them on any motorcycle applications, but have used their primer and paints on classic car restoration projects. Obviously these products can't restore badly rusted parts, but they do a great jub of stopping rust and preventing future problems.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Reverendbiker said:
I have had excellent results with their products. I've not used them on any motorcycle applications, but have used their primer and paints on classic car restoration projects. Obviously these products can't restore badly rusted parts, but they do a great jub of stopping rust and preventing future problems.

Thanks, thats what I was hoping to hear
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Reverendbiker said:
Obviously these products can't restore badly rusted parts, but they do a great jub of stopping rust and preventing future problems.
I agree.

I've used this on my streetrod (1931 Chevy) and on some other projects and yes, it does a very good job and appears to last a long time. It's not a 100% miracle cure by any means, but it's the best available in what's out there today. It's excellent for trailer tongues and hitches. Just keep in mind; "Preparation before application" for a good looking end product.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I've used POR-15 products on jeeps for years. It is pretty much indestructable. I recenly used the engine enamal and manifold paint on a 49 CJ3a I'm restoring. The results have been excellent.

Just don't get it on your hootus.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,413 Posts
I used some 3-4 years ago to touch up dinged places on my FLHT expecially down in front below the rubber mount. It's holding up real good.
 

·
Goooood morning, Vietnam!
Joined
·
391 Posts
It's "the good stuff". But like the man said - don't get it on ANYTHING you don't want it to stay on for a long, long time!
 

·
drinker of fine ales
Joined
·
273 Posts
I guess I'll be the only negative here. Had it come off in sheets on 2 restorations I did. owners thought they would help by putting it on clean plastic media blasted metal. Never again. Read the fine print, it's supposed to go over clean, wirebrushed RUST.
 

·
Ironbutt
Joined
·
7,412 Posts
Did my entire boat trailer with it last year. Stuff is tuff as nails. I'm a believer.
 

·
Arrogant Bastard
Joined
·
1,264 Posts
Whatever you do make sure you remove it from your hands with the solvent completely before washing with soap and water. I found out it sets up instantly with water and is impossible to remove. I used solvent to cut it to a light film on my hands and then thought the rest would come off with soap and water. WRONG, I had black hands for about two weeks till it wore off.:duh?:

Joe
 

·
"Jane you ignorant slut!"
Joined
·
2,292 Posts
The only downside i've experienced is; it will harden up in the can. Even with the lid put on tight right after usage.

Chris
 

·
Punch It!
Joined
·
356 Posts
I've used it and it has it's place. Clean off all loose scale and oil before applying. WEAR RUBBER GLOVES. It will rot through a plactic cup in about 15 min. so work fast. Don't get it on anything you want it off of. Throw away brush and container after use don't try to clean. Only pour out the amount you want to use. There is another product called Zero Rust which is more of a paint and less of an encapsulation product. I used it on the frame/suspension of my '70 Buick Skylark 455. It can be sprayed. I have read of people spraying POR-15 but I wouldn't as it is so toxic I would not want that in my lungs. For your application POR-15 should work well..............Ward
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
bigblock455 said:
I've used it and it has it's place. Clean off all loose scale and oil before applying. WEAR RUBBER GLOVES. It will rot through a plactic cup in about 15 min. so work fast. Don't get it on anything you want it off of. Throw away brush and container after use don't try to clean. Only pour out the amount you want to use. There is another product called Zero Rust which is more of a paint and less of an encapsulation product. I used it on the frame/suspension of my '70 Buick Skylark 455. It can be sprayed. I have read of people spraying POR-15 but I wouldn't as it is so toxic I would not want that in my lungs. For your application POR-15 should work well..............Ward

What bigblock455 said..stick with using a brush and avoid spraying POR-15 unless you have an air-supplied respirator. It contains isocyanate which can really **** up your lungs and nervous system. A regular charcoal respirator will not filter it out and it will harden in your lungs within 24 hours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
ceraaa42 said:
The only downside i've experienced is; it will harden up in the can. Even with the lid put on tight right after usage.

Chris
If you put a sheet of plastic wrap (Saran Wrap) , etc. over the can before you put the lid back on, it won't stick or harden up. Otherwise, it's like welding the lid on, you'll never get it off! Also, keep the can in the fridge between use and it lasts a loooooooong time. I have had a qt. can in there for years (yes, years!) and it has not hardened yet. I use a little once in a while and back in the fridge it goes. One other tip, according to the mfg., sunlight is detrimental to POR15. It is supposed to be top-coated. I have found that if you wait until it starts to tack up, dust it w/ some primer and then you can paint it later. If you let it harden first, it is super glossy and any top coat will flake right off. I've used a lot of the stuff on classic car resto work. It works great on a freshly sandblasted surface. As others mention, don't let it dry on your skin or only time will get it off. Latex gloves are the way to go when using it...........'Bean-2$en#e-
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top