[1bdBagr]

Earlier in the year i sold my 92 bagger which had a pretty stout 80" evo in it, and traded up to a 2000 Road King Classic. Went from 90,000 miles on the 92 to 14,000 on the 2000. After riding the 2000, I REALLY MISS the HP. My 2000 just turned 20,000 miles, and after reading the posts regarding cam chain tensioners and such, I'm wondering if a 95" kit, heads and cams (to over simplify) are worth the $$$ when using a MM EFI system. A buddy had his tensioners fail at 9800 miles and replaced them with the S&S cams and gear drives, put in JIMS lifters, HD oil pump, Adjustable push rods/tubes and buttoned it back up. Cost $1400 and ended up w/ 69 hp. He didn't pull the heads/barrels and stayed 88". Seems like a bitch to have to spend that kind of cash just to fix the "planned obsolescence" of HD's shitty tensioner design. Back to my question...I've heard from a few sources that the 2000 and down EFI (MM) is the weak link in the chain. Is 95-100 HP/100+ TQ possible from this system? My mechanic buddy (Bill Chambers Racing) will handle the boring and headwork, and i will most likely switch to gear drives for the cams. Any suggestions or opinions??? Thanks in advance. Tim

 

[pa-glazier]

Look in the Drag racing/Dyno posting section. Adlerx did pretty well with his bored MM throttle body. The is a little contraversy about the numbers.

 

[2003hdrdkng]

Hey Tim
I have ridden my buddies 2000 Rd Kng (95"/SE Heads/203 cams/ True Duals/Power commander). It ran real nice, seat of the pants felt like about 90hp (My bike makes 92hp so I think my seat is pretty good). Low end torque felt real nice. I think it is worth it. I, like you came from hopped up evos and needed to feel more tq/hp in my twin cam.

 

[adlerx]

Hey 1bd, you sound like me, went from a stout evo fxsts for years to the 01 bagger and really craved the power I was use to. I too was concerned with the MM when I first started researching my build a couple of years ago. I used the gerolamy bored TB, I don't know if it adds that much cuz it went on with the rest of the build. Gerolamy charges $325 for the TB port job, I picked mine up on ebay for $125 brand new but watched for it for a year and a half and was willing to spend the $325 when I got ready to actually do my build had I not found it. You'll also need the feul pressure regulator, can be found for alot less than Gerolamy charges. Carl's speed shop charges $65, a member here said he had a buddy that'd do it for $20,(I'll see if I can find him if you want) I think gerolamy wants like $175 for the same thing.

Check out my build on the Dyno Forum. Yes there is controversy about the numbers(STD vs. SAE) but no one would argue that they don't at least reach the 95/100 you seek. A stout build in any event. I was hoping to get solidly into the 90's with some low end and even when the numbers are corrected using SAE, they easily will be in the upper 90'shp and over 100tq.
Good luck!

 

[Boris]

2000 Ultra, flat tops, 44g cams, BCG bored throttle body, high pressure reg. Heads reworked by Bishops, SE AC, Kerker slipons, Sampson true duals, PC III usb. = 95 hp. 102 tq. I'm changing things aroud a bit with the exhaust and redynoing it this spring.

Boris~!Awesome!

 

[1bdBagr]

2000 RK future build

Thanks for the replies, everybody. I'm sure to get flamed for this but it still trips me out how i could get 97 HP and 106 TQ out of a 80" EVO with a carb, and the twin cams with this EFI need cubic dollars thrown at it and usually be a 95" to boot to make these numbers. I'm not BS'ing about the EVO numbers but i lost the dyno print out sometime ago or i'd post it. I will also cop to the compression being a bit high for the grades of gas available at the pump. We ended up putting a thicker base & head gasket later to calm it down a tad. Ended up losing 5 HP and TQ in the process. Back to now...what kind of $$$ have you guys had to invest to get the numbers previously stated? I guess i'm still having a hard time getting by the twinkie's cam bearing and cam chain BS. The old EVO just seemed easier, cheaper and simpler to hot rod. I'm just dreading accepting the old adage , as it applies to the TC..."Horsepower Costs...How fast you wanna' go?". Thanks again for the advice...

 

[adlerx]

Yep 1bd, it's gonna cost ya! If you can do the work yourself, that'll help. I wouldn't try to go much further than your stated goal of 95-100 with the MM. Unless you got more money than good sense.

I am in mine less but a retail breakdown would go about like this, I heave added in S&H for the stuff you'd probably need shipped

$400 = Headwork including milling for compression
$600 = cams and gears
$350 = Throttle body modifications
$125 = bore and hone cylinders
$250 = Power commander ( always available on ebay at this price or lower)
$120 = Cast SE flat top pistons
$120 = pushrods, perfect fit or SE adjustable
$60 = OEM lifters
$100 = gaskets
$400 = V&H ProPipe Best power and great price
$100 = Ness big sucker A/C
$2-300 = dynotune/custom map

OUCH!!! $2800 plus! before labor. Sounds like alot. I have everything above except the gears and I am in mine less than $2200 including all parts and labor but got alot of my stuff cheap but had to be really diligent shopper and very patient. I have been amassing parts over a two year period...
I didn't use gear cams and got my tw37b's for $60, got my TB for $100, my PCIII was $95 and I used my stock pushrods. So, there's savings to be had if you are patient also, with the new HD parts, if you use Zanotti's, you'll save 20%, order em all at once to save on S&H. With just the AC and V&H ProPipe and PCIII with canned map, my bike ran pretty darn good, you might try that combo for a season, you might be surprised.

One thing for sure, if you go with a build like this you'll do way better than your friend did!

 

[RK103]

Skip the throttle body mods, pc, and custom map and just put a used cv40 on it with 95, 37's, mild head work, and with a decent exh. get mid 90's hp and low 100 tq. ED