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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody knocked out or drilled out the plugs in 16 guage muffler baffles yet? How did you do it? drill or knock em out? How's the sound improvement with straight thru now? I don't want to just remove baffles, I don't like too damn much attention gathering noise.
 

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POLIZZO:

I knocked mine out. Have you removed the fiberglass wrapping yet???

I am thinking about what I will do next--shorten the baffles or ???
I don't want to mess up what little torque I have by removing the back pressure.

It is interesting that thepipes are esseltially the same as the D&D's BUT the D&D's use the stock collector box and the Eagles have the V&H crossover.

Regards

V-Rod I FL
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
V ROD FL1

I haven't done anything to them yet. Did you drive plugs out rear of baffle or out front? I'm guessing you drove them out rear, were they hard to drive out? Or do I need to drill the little bastards out? I'm getting strings of the glass wrapping kinda blowing out between baffle and outer pipe anyway now. I think the stock pipe collector box is more efficient than the V and H. I haven't seen the D and D pipes, too late now anyway, I'm committed to the 16 guage now, their bought and on there.
 

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pull the baffle out,take the wraping off,then you will see the wire mesh with the plugs.i pulled the mesh off the baffle,ground the spot welds off and reinstalled the baffle.sounds alot better with the plugs out but nothing like straight pipes.put the wrapping in your keep it till i need it box in case you want to reuse it.
 

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POLIZZO:

Take the baffles out of the pipes and over to your workbench. Then set them up in the vise I hope you have and take an 3/8ths drive long extension and insert it inot the baffle from the rear (exhaust end) Tehn smack it with a hammer HARD several times. The 3 spot welds will give way and the plugs will fall out.

gpp's Suggestion: I would do this stuff in phases. Everybodys taste is obviously different. Since we can't replace the baffles yet because they aren't sold separately (like batteries) you will be in a world of hurt if you go too far.

ALSO, I read your point about the 28 tooth gear as opposed to the 32 tooth that HD may offer. I am betting that they offer both. BUT we few will have to face the fact that there will be many more buyers of the larger gear than the smaller one. At least they are fairly easy to change out if you want to do a highway trip. The REAL ISSUE is a larger gas tank. It would be easy to do if they would move the damned ignition up near the instrument cluster. There's at least a gallon in there somewhere.

Let me know how you like the change.

OH Yea, I put a SMALL bit of anti-seize lube on the baffle screws so they can be removed easily since it seems that I have been taking them out every other day or so.

gpp-- Question -- Are you talking about SE2 baffles?? Unless I missed something the outer screen is what holds the entire baffle system together--front to back.


Regards

V-ROD I FL
 

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POLIZZO:

Stock Collector Box-- I think I agree with oyu on this point --for now. However, it is heavy isn't it?? D&D uses it as you may know AND, My SE2's are turning yellow at the two V&H type crossover pipe areas behind the shields. That means hot and lean to me--at those points. I am constantly tapping the rev limiter in 1st and 2nd though so I would guess I am pushing the envelope a little.

77 high and 54 low dow here in sunny FLorida so riding is definitely "IN" for tomorrow.

Regards

V-ROD I FL
 

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yes they are the screaming 2s.when i pulled the first one out the screen came out of the front of the baffle so i pulled the next one out also.they probably should have been spoy welded to the baffle but mine sure wernt. and yes,do one thing at a time as i did so you get the sound you like for your self not some one else.its nice to have the option to do this also.
 
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