[roadcouch]

when i torque my cone nut (right side) to 95-105 foot pounds my right cam plate,adjuster,1/2 moon plate or whatever you call it rotates away (looser) from the boss on the swing arm. it is supposed to be in contact even when torqued down. i have tried putting antisieze between the back side of the nut and on the face side of the cam adjuster. still it moves. then i used vicegrips to pinch the adjuster to the swing arm. still it moved. then vicegrips on again and blocked it between the ground and the bottom of the pliers.that worked but a real pain in the a**. i am hoping someone else has a better solution.

thanks

 

[justbill301]

I just hold the far side with a big crescent, Make take a few tries til I'm happy. I know it's barnyard, but it works for me.

 

[darman1]

I use the Jim third hand axle locker tool.

 

[roadcouch]

it's the "cam adjuster" itself that moves. i don't have a problem with the axle nuts.

 

[btsom]

I have the same trouble. I put a bottle jack under the tip of the cam and put the wrench on the nut so that the swing is down (wrench handle in about the 2:00 position as I face the rear wheel. The downward force of the wrench adds force to the weight on the bottle jack and seems to hold the cam in position for the final tightening. I have never had a bike with the adjusting screws, but at this point, I would like to try that arrangement to see if I would like that better than the cam doo hicky, not fond of this way of doing it.

 

[justbill301]

I have the same trouble. I put a bottle jack under the tip of the cam and put the wrench on the nut so that the swing is down (wrench handle in about the 2:00 position as I face the rear wheel. The downward force of the wrench adds force to the weight on the bottle jack and seems to hold the cam in position for the final tightening. I have never had a bike with the adjusting screws, but at this point, I would like to try that arrangement to see if I would like that better than the cam doo hicky, not fond of this way of doing it.

I agree it's kinda goofy, but with a little practice, I got happy with it. Only thing easier is to get a friend to hold the far side. Just my 2 cents.

 

[wydeglyde]

Just hold the nut with a crescent wrench, works every time. Once in a while I need to loosen, adjust the belt and retighten, but most times it is really close.

 

[berserker]

You could also buy the right size wench and a socket, makes it easier.

 

[RG50]

There is some play in the slot of the cam.I think its just the cam moving,not the axle.

 

[btsom]

RG50 understands, the rest of you guys still don't have the picture. There is enough friction between the cone nut and the cam ON THE NUT SIDE that tightening the nut will make ONLY THAT CAM move, the axle and the welded cam on the head side don't move, as the problem is described. Welding the axle in place would still not prevent the nut side cam for moving when the nut is tightened due to the slop in the fit between the axle and the axle hole in the cam. The question is, how do you keep the NUT SIDE CAM from moving while tightening the nut to specs? Keeping the axle from moving is easy.

 

[justbill301]

There is some play in the slot of the washer.I think its just the washer moving,not the axle.

OK, Now that you put it that way. By the way you were describing how you tried to hold the far side, we assumed that was your difficulty. I'm no expert, but I just got done messin with mine after a tire replacement. Always takes me a few tries.... But back to your dilemma. I do not think that there should be any 'play' in that washer side. It should barely have any slop in it. IMHO, if I ran across a noticeable 'slop' in the way that washer fit ( even b4 the nut went on ), I would try comparing it to a new bolt/washer set. Look for wear or damage inside the washer ? That's all I got, good luck, and let us know what ya find.

 

[roadcouch]

RG50 understands, the rest of you guys still don't have the picture. There is enough friction between the cone nut and the cam ON THE NUT SIDE that tightening the nut will make ONLY THAT CAM move, the axle and the welded cam on the head side don't move, as the problem is described. Welding the axle in place would still not prevent the nut side cam for moving when the nut is tightened due to the slop in the fit between the axle and the axle hole in the cam. The question is, how do you keep the NUT SIDE CAM from moving while tightening the nut to specs? Keeping the axle from moving is easy.

thank you rg50 and btsom! were on the same page here.

i was thinking a piece of tin or sheet metal between the cone nut and the cam washer/adjuster with anti sieze. anyone tried this?

 

[btsom]

If what you are describing amounts to making your own washer, I thought about that and decided I didn't know if the MOCO didn't put one in there to save a few cents or because the engineers didn't want one in there. On the chance the engineers didn't want one, I just did the bottle jack thing, but I already had the bottle jacks.

 

[wydeglyde]

ok, got ya!

There is no play on the cam on my 05. It tracks right along with the welded cam on the axle.

I suggest you need to consider replacing the cam, axle or both in order to make this process simple and straightforward.

 

[RG50]

How much clearance(slop) is in the cam when placed on the axle?

You could try placing some shim stock in between the cam flat and the axle flat to tighten it up.

 

[justbill301]

How much clearance(slop) is in the cam when placed on the axle?

You could try placing some shim stock in between the cam flat and the axle flat to tighten it up.

Again.... supposed to be equal each side..... if they don't match, something is wrong. There must be wear on the cam washer, or simply defective.

 

[btsom]

Replacement cost for axle, cam, nut and clip is about $85. For that I'd expect closer tolerances than what I found. Mine seems not noticeably sloppier now than when new and the nut side cam moves when the nut is tightened unless I take precautions. If it moves, the belt setting seems to go bad on the first ride, keeping the cam stationary, the belt adjustment remains as set.

 

[RG50]

Again.... supposed to be equal each side..... if they don't match, something is wrong. There must be wear on the cam washer, or simply defective.

Maybe I was not clear or confusing......I was trying to say place a shim inside the slot of the cam when installed on the axle,not on the outside of the cam.
This would tighten up the removable cam and should not rotate as much when tightening the nut.

Another fix would be to swage one of the flats on the cam to narrow the gap when installed on the axle.I would try using a dull chisel about the same length of the flat.Whack it a few times near the edge of the flat with a BFH and this should push mat'l into the slot.Use a file if it is too tight.

 

[justbill301]

Maybe I was not clear or confusing......I was trying to say place a shim inside the slot of the cam when installed on the axle,not on the outside of the cam.
This would tighten up the removable cam and should not rotate as much when tightening the nut.

Another fix would be to swage one of the flats on the cam to narrow the gap when installed on the axle.I would try using a dull chisel about the same length of the flat.Whack it a few times near the edge of the flat with a BFH and this should push mat'l into the slot.Use a file if it is too tight.

I do understand what you're after. Good idea to try and equalize the two sides... sounds like something I'd try b4 buying new parts. It may be difficult to get it go the right direction, but if you over do it then file out the right area, you just might get it... good luck.