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Discussion Starter #1
Just did the Stage one to a TC88 on a new2002 FLH (V& H slip ons, SE breather and stealer re-jeted carb) and I ran out of gas at 141 miles. All my buddies were registering 1/3 left. When I filled up I put in 4.4 gallons. At the 5000 mile check up my wrench said that this was about average for this bike- I think thats B.S. Whats every one else think?
Also can't stand that front brake constantly rubbing. Again the wrench said there is nothing I could do about it. Foget Kevlar pads, they don't work on Harly rotors, something about the alloy make up of the rotor. Any suggestions?:mad:
 

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Just curious, if you think the HD dealer is a stealer, why did you have them work on the carb???

Now then, how many miles on the bike?

Without knowing exactly what the dealer did to the carb, it's hard to make any judgements.

What kind of riding were you doing (speeds, etc) when you ran out of gas? I assume you meant you had to switch to reserve since you only put 4.4 gals in a 5 gal tank.

No reason a well broken in carbed TC88 with your mods shouldn't get anywhere from 40-45 MPH or more but a lot depends on riding style, tire pressure, type of roads and top speeds. The TC88 seems to start gulping gas above 75.
 

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I've got a 2000 95" Untra I pull a trailer with and thats about what I get . And thats running 65 to 70 to Sturgis. In the hills and wind.
With out the trailer I get 45 to 48 depending on how I ride.
 

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I have an o2 road king w/ stage 1 and SE slip ons. Worst mileage would be two up w/ windshield at 75+. Maybe 40 mpg or so (170 miles to a tank). I get better w/o the windshield or riding single.

I thought the gas tanks were 5 gallons, did you not really fill it up, or ar the tanks really not a full 5 gallons?

greg
 

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Here's my theory,the tanks are 5 gallons by volume meaning, if you could fill up the tank with no air/space left in it, it would hold 5 gallons. Everyone knows (I assume ) you can't fill a tank up full, you need room for air. I'm not going into details.
I rode approximately 10 miles on reserve and filled up with 4.4 gallons and left about 1 1/2" from top of filler hole, so I would say the tank could hold 5 gallons by volume.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ed Y - This is my first out the door new Harley and I was told that the warranty on the bike might be affected by the pipes and breather. I decided to let the dealer do the work (re-jet) at 2500 milre check up. I now have over 6000 miles on it. At the 5000 mile check up I was told that this is considered good mileage for the FLHTC. My friends ride Ultras and got about 44 mpg on the same trip. I did switch to reserve at 141 miles. The wrench rejetted the main jet and slowjet. My riding style is not too agressive off the line and a constant 75 on the slab. I pulled the plugs and they looked fine (not black or soot or greyish white). I just hear other who say, and have seen bikes get more MPG then mine. If there is something more I could do, please let me know. What size jets should I have installed with my combination of Stage 1?
What about the rubbing coming form the front brakes. I was told the new style of rotor (swosh-like style marks) is what is the blame. This does not sound right. By 6000 miles the pads should be worn in. Is there an after market brand of brake pads that might help. I know it is no big thing, but damn, for almost 20K this machine should not be making this noise through the neighborhood.
 

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There are a lot of different opinions on how to rejet a CV carb on a TC88. Here's mine for what it's worth. On a stock 88 engine with just free flowing mufflers and air cleaner, the slow jet and main jet should not be touched except as a last resort. I prefer to just install a jet needle used in 1988 sportster carbs, (HD part # 27094-88), remove the plug from the air/fuel mixture screw and adjust it. This approach provides a very good street setup with reasonable gas mileage. If for some reason, you get low speed carb hiccups, put in a 46 slow speed jet, and re-adjust the mixture screw.

Keep your tire pressures correct too. I have a chopped tour pak on my 99 FLHT and usually get around 40 MPH running between 70-75 on interstate. Considering what the dealer has done so far, I doubt if they would take this approach though. A good independent shop may do you better and it will not affect the warranty.

Don't know what to tell you about the brakes. All the 2000 and later bikes I've ridden make some front brake rubbing noise at low speeds. Once moving good, it is not noticeable or seems to go away.
 

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2003 night train w/stage 1 flash, se air breather, and samson drag pipes will go 213.5 mi between fillups.(42.7mpg) Reseve light never came on and gauge never got off 3/4 tank, but she was bone dry. Fuel injection did pick rt back up after nice lady gave me some of her lawnmower gas. Made it to gas station where bike took 4.85 gallons. Tank would appear to hold 5.0 gallons. Now back to the shop to get gauged fixed. 700 miles and 4 trips to the shop, hope the bugs are gone soon.
 

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Just a word of caution, if you don't already know it. Use the odometer and reset it every gas stop. Let it tell you when to get gas. Relying on the gas gauge on the bike, is like waiting to run dry at any time. They have always been very inaccurate.
 

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gas mileage

Durango,
You should be able to get into the low to mid 40s on the highway - average 40 urban/city - common sense applies <g>
Dynojet carb jet kits are notorious for mileage in the low 30s, and are common used for Harley rejets.
Check the threads on delphi forums, "Hawg Ryders All Harley Tech Forum" for a good setup on a stock cv carb.
You should be getting similar miles on a tank as your friends.
Good rides,
Don '02 FLHT
 

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You're exactly right ED Y, I was purposely finding my limits. Have read post, that fuel gauges are innacurate, but not this innaccurate. Reserve light never came on at all and needle showed over 3/4's tank left. I will be going by the odometer now that I have pretty good idea of my mpg and the capacity of my tank which was in question also. This bike is brand new and we are just getting to know each other...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
rain rider - what other "jet" kit should I use? Wouldn't one size in Dynojet be the same and another name brand?
 

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rejet carb

Durango,
This seemed to work for my stock cv carb:
Dealer did originally (out the door stage 1)
48 Slo Jet with idle mixture adjusted.
Dealer did nothing else.
Per suggestions of seasoned mechanics I read enough of to know they were talking straight, I shimmed the stock needle .020 and kept the stock 190 main, though I may change that eventually to a 195. Suggest you stay with the stock main at first.
Dyno results: 74 hp, 84 ft lbs.
Some suggest using a sportster needle, without shimming. Lots of positive comments about that, maybe even better than shimming stock needle. Some have used a 195 main, others report having to use a smaller main. Suggest you just shim needle, or replace with sportster needle and install 48 slo-jet.
There's a hole in the bottom of the slide which can be drilled to get a little faster throttle response. Normal suggest is 1/8 inch. I drilled mine to .005 less than 1/8 inch and like the response.
Note that with the 48 slo jet, I have to keep my idle screw turned in to about 1 and 3/4 turns. Normal seems to be somewhere around 2 and 1/2 turns, so I may have a slightly bigger than necessary slo jet.
Anyway, if you can check out the threads in "Hawg Ryders all Harley Tech forum, you'll get a bit of insight into this.
If you have the Dynojet kit installed, I think they use a different spring in the slide, so I wouldn't drill the slide, cause the spring probably already lets it respond quicker to throttle changes.
For the record, Durango, I'm no wrench, but am fairly mechanically inclined, and listen to those who seem to know what they're talking about.
If you need for me to get the numbers for the sportster needle, and I think I can find the part number for the shim (just a small washer, like for a number 4 screw - the part number is a Yamaha number, but I found a Kawasaki part that worked as well)
'nuff for now -
Good rides,
Don
 

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Carb mods

Ok, I'm on a roll - this, then I'm gone for now. . .

I'm convinced this wrench is good - so here's what he says. . .
Don

(from Hawg Ryders All Harley Tech Forum)

From: DRTRAMP May-26 2:57 am
To: ALL (1 of 37)

3425.1

Okay I'm posting this for all the folks who want to know what mods we do with stock CV carbs where I work.
First we install a SE high flow air cleaner kit with the K&N filter element.
Next, on FX and Sportster exhausts we cut out the baffle core with a 1 1/4 hole saw. Can't do it with FL exhausts due to the different design of the baffles. Instead install SEII or other suitable exhaust.
Remove the cap over the air/fuel mixture screw and set the screw at 2 turns out as a base setting. You should be able to get the best low speed performance and a smooth idle within half a turn from there.
Install a #48 or #50 idle jet. For most bikes a #48 works fine but some bikes do better with a #50. Start with a #48. While you're in there check the float level height and adjust if needed.
Usually the stock main jet works fine so we leave it alone.
We use one .020" Yamaha needle shim, part #90201-03331, to shim up the slide needle. This puts it's taper in a better working range. We use a modified 3/8 drill, reground like an endmill, to remove a little material from the inside of the needle retainer so the needle will float a bit and not stick or cock in the emulsion tube. I'm not sure this is absolutely needed but we do it as a added bit of assurance.
After all is done and we've test ridden the bike to get it up to proper operating temp we check the idle and mid range operation with an EGA machine that tells us if the air/fuel mixture is burning to lean or rich. Also we always use a fresh set of properly gapped plugs to ensure the best readings.
WFO riders may need to use more than one shim and tinker with the main jets to get the results they want.
These mods give us good performance all across the power band and decent gas milage. We're at about 3300 feet in altitude but we techs have ridden our own bikes with these modifications from sea level to over 7000 feet with no problems. But always double check everything to be sure it's correct. Ride Safe. Dr.Tramp......

Addendum: The above is primarily for TC engines. This is for Evo Sportsters and big twins. The only difference in procedure is the jetting. We put in a #45 or #46 idle jet and usually a # 180 or # 185 main jet. Ride Safe. Dr.Tramp.......
 

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durrango said:
rain rider - what other "jet" kit should I use? Wouldn't one size in Dynojet be the same and another name brand?
Actually, Dynojet mains are different than stock Keihin jets. The smaller jets are roughly the same but as you get bigger, the difference increases so you can't just assume that a 140 Keihin equals a 138 DJ. On a whole, the DJ jets are bigger.
 

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Hello,

I have a Dyna Super Glide with a SE Air Cleaner and Breather Kit, Yost CV 40 Master Kit Type L Jet Kit, and V&H Longshots. I think my gas mileage has decreased but haven't checked yet. I just got this done a few days ago. I will let all know.

Also, the harley mechanic here says the brakes rub together because they are self adjusting. Have you all heard the same?

Thanks
 

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The brakes rub because they aren't free floating discs like sportbike brakes. The piston should self adjust but they often hang up. Pull the pads and use a box wrench to GENTLY push the piston(s) back in as far as they go and re-install the pads. Place a few business cards between each pad and the rotor and pump the brakes till the pads hit the cards/disc. That should do it.
 

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Jet sizes

Didn't realize I had unfinished business here.
Thanks for answering that, MadCap. :)
I didn't know the answer anyway.
From what I read, the numbers Harley uses depict the opening size, but that's only a limited reading.
Good to know ways of sizing differ.
Good rides,
Don '02 FLHT
 

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There can be other factors involed in mileage. How well the the slide moves, ports & cumbustion chamber flaws air leaks low air PSI with the tires ect ect ect... The heads are not to easy to check but the simple stuff is.
 
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