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I would not spend the money on rebuilding a "B" engine the cost are way to high balancers and all they will never meet the level of an equivalent "A" engine. I have personally been very Satisfied with the Use Engines I have purchased from Budkeys Toys (Budkestoys Dion Budke, P: +1-308-340-2336 ) the last one was a 2001 SE95 complete with shipping was only $695 at my door in 5 days runs perfect. Unless you are Emotionally attached to this bike that is your most cost effective solution my last build cost $5500 in parts no labor. Things add up really fast and if you are not turning the wrenches figure about twice the $5500 cost Honestly if you can wrench on a lawn mower you can do a Harley..... They are just Bolts and tools. Buy yourself a good used engine check the cam tensioner before you install it. Any year from 99 to 06 will fit those years anything 07 to 17 will fit those years all you have to be sure of is it's a "B" engine or an "A" the years will also interchange if you use the appropriate Primary drive components as Harley davidson changed the out put shaft configuration on 07 up powertrains if you need a manual let me know. I am sure I can help you out with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
This may not mean a thing but I’m going to throw it out and see what comes back.

Been mulling over options and taking a good look at the oil pump housing and cam plate. I fingered I would do a google search to see what the options were to just put OEM back in. The pump part number is 26299-99a. The parts manual on the HD web site calls for a 26035-99b and camplate part number is a 24255-00 parts manual calls for a 25267-99B. The tensioner shoes look brand new, not even scratches on them. The tensioners do have some tool marks on the rivets, makes me think they are the after market repair kits, also shoes are white. Googled the part numbers that are stamped on the oil pump and camplate and neither are available except on EBay used. I am a very suspicious person when it comes to the human condition. What is the chance that whoever replaced the tensioner shoes put the wrong parts back in or are these updated components.
 

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Tensioner shoes could be Cyco brand. Nothing wrong with them. I doubt wrong parts (at least as far as fitment is concerned). It's anyone's guess as to the quality of the pump/camplate assy.before the failure.Possibly there was a previous failure in the cam chest area such as a failed lifter and whoever patched it up didn't cover all the bases so to speak. Unless you are familiar with working on these engines I believe it is best to walk away from this engine or send it in for a reman. Even for the experienced it probably isn't cost effective repairing your engine. That is unless there were a bunch of spare parts laying around.
 

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I'm also leaning towards a prior failure,, and the band aid fix.. when they heard complete rebuild,, it got traded in,, now its yours,,, there should be some recourse,, if you bought it at a Harley dealer...

rules and forced warranties on used vehicles by a dealer vary by states..
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Probably not the most popular choice but I think I am going to throw in a cheap OEM+ pump run it for a couple hundred miles and see what condition the pump is in. I would really like to do a rebuild or long block. But that is not in the budget right now. Not long after I got the bike this past summer I was forced to step down a pay grade at work with a $3.00 an hour pay cut. Cut backs suck, ever notice how the CEOs position is never eliminated. Anyway my thinking is that if I am at 90k for mileage and the motor needs rebuilt/replaced with the new oil pump maybe I can ride a little until I can donate enough plasma for the long block then the 6 speed conversion after that. If the motor takes a dump I am only out the cost of the pump.
 

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like a few others with alot of hands on,,, I tend to believe,, that debris from the former failure,, was not properly cleaned out,, a band aid repair was done,, the oil pump included since the get wiped out in a lifter roller failure,, q new pump put in and sold,,, some of the remaining debris,, as another has already said,, made it into the new pump and shattered the gears,,, it may occur again no telling when...
 

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From 30+ years Experience you will be wasting your time and money.by a used engine. As I said before " I have personally been very Satisfied with the Use Engines I have purchased from Budkeys Toys (Budkestoys Dion Budke, P: +1-308-340-2336 ) the last one was a 2001 SE95 complete with shipping was only $695 at my door in 5 days runs perfect. An oil pump camplate and gaskets will cost you at least $500 + your time only to be a Ticking Time Bomb. You know that they don't break in the garage,driveway, or next to the Trailer I Very highly Dought a roller from a lifter made it to the pump. Cam Shoe material maybe ? The only difference in the late oil pump and the old style is that they increased the scavenge volume of the pump both work the eerily models tend to blow oil out of the breathers more so. The "B" camplate must be used in a "B" engine it has the oil passage to feed oil to the Balancers you can use a "A" or "B" plate in an "A" engine but only a "B" camplate in a "B" engine. When you clean your oil system go to Harbor freight and get some flexible cleaning brushes to clean out all of the oil lines & hoses and remove the oil tank use Kerosene or a Solvant to clean it out and also a handful of nuts & bolts in the tank and shake it around to knock all the gathered gunk out of the corners ( make sure to count the nuts & bolt before and after so you know that none remain In the tank ) But looking at the pictures and all of the bikes I have repaired your crank is sissiored or way way out of true. Call Deion hes done me right on used engines. And you can sell your old one in parts on eBay and Craigslist for most of not all of your money back you can easily get $400 or $500 for just the Cases $125 for the Jugs & pistons $300 for the heads. If you are short on Cash It's a No Brainer. And an engine swap is only a 4 to 6 hour job.
 

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From 30+ years Experience you will be wasting your time and money.by a used engine. As I said before " I have personally been very Satisfied with the Use Engines I have purchased from Budkeys Toys (Budkestoys Dion Budke, P: +1-308-340-2336 ) the last one was a 2001 SE95 complete with shipping was only $695 at my door in 5 days runs perfect. An oil pump camplate and gaskets will cost you at least $500 + your time only to be a Ticking Time Bomb. You know that they don't break in the garage,driveway, or next to the Trailer I Very highly Dought a roller from a lifter made it to the pump. Cam Shoe material maybe ? The only difference in the late oil pump and the old style is that they increased the scavenge volume of the pump both work the eerily models tend to blow oil out of the breathers more so. The "B" camplate must be used in a "B" engine it has the oil passage to feed oil to the Balancers you can use a "A" or "B" plate in an "A" engine but only a "B" camplate in a "B" engine. When you clean your oil system go to Harbor freight and get some flexible cleaning brushes to clean out all of the oil lines & hoses and remove the oil tank use Kerosene or a Solvant to clean it out and also a handful of nuts & bolts in the tank and shake it around to knock all the gathered gunk out of the corners ( make sure to count the nuts & bolt before and after so you know that none remain In the tank ) But looking at the pictures and all of the bikes I have repaired your crank is sissiored or way way out of true. Call Deion hes done me right on used engines. And you can sell your old one in parts on eBay and Craigslist for most of not all of your money back you can easily get $400 or $500 for just the Cases $125 for the Jugs & pistons $300 for the heads. If you are short on Cash It's a No Brainer. And an engine swap is only a 4 to 6 hour job.
30 years of experience,HAHA. You clearly don't know what a part number with a -xx means or what an A, B or C suffix means either. A or B does not mean it fits an A or B motor only.
 

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Excessive run out is the first thing to notice. But you can put the pump in so that it isn't centered which could cause this to happen. Or as others have said, sucking up a piece of debris that gets caught could do the same, even the plastic from the chain tensioners could potentially cause the jamb.
 

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30 years of experience,HAHA. You clearly don't know what a part number with a -xx means or what an A, B or C suffix means either. A or B does not mean it fits an A or B motor only.
I have worked in the Foundry industry for 25 + years and the parts industry many years before that. The cast numbers mean very little as to fitment of a particular part Read another book or soneones Oppion. The only difference in any Factory Camplates for spring loaded cam chain tensioners is the oil feed holes one to spray the chain that is on the later version and the oil feed on a "B" Style engine that feeds the balancers. You HAVE to use a "B" style plate in a "B" engine Only but can use either of them in an "A" style engine as long as you use both "O" rings to seal the plate to the unmachined "A" style case. When you get a few more years of experience you may Know what you think you know. I build all types of High Proformance Engines. From 50+ Hp. Methanol Briggs and Stratton Go Kart Engines to 1500 hp Twin screw LSX V8s. And hundreds of 120+ hp 95ci Harley davidson twin cams. I worked on the Developmental Team that designed the Engine that is in the new Mid Engine 2020 Corvette & the soon to be announced release of the Turbocharged 650 hp 4 cylinder full size truck engine of the upcoming New GMC truck. And have access to one of the Best machine shops and machinist in The World as part of my fulltime job. With General Motors Co. You sound like a parts counter person or a dealer mechanic (Professional Parts Swapper). Where as those positions do Not require a true working knowledge of mechanical engineering or parts fitment.
 

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tooting your own horn,,, sometimes has a negative effect here....

sounds like you are talented and have had a great career,,, but what do you know about harleys,,,


r
 

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Like Terry said, sounds like you had a great career. I myself was a diesel mechanic for 30 years, Mack for 20. Then 10 years repairing Manufacturing Machines. And as a mechanic, worked on many side jobs on many various vehicles. So why does someone with so much experience repairing/rebuilding and engineering engines tell someone to buy a junkyard motor, especially when he just bought the bike, apparently with a hidden problem. There will be no known history, probably no warranty, and so possibly buying someone elses problem, again. I would at least investigate first and wouldn't chance a junkyard motor unless i was broke.
 

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Today the cam plates are the same for the A and B motors. The first A motors, 1999, has no casting boss in the balancer feed area so it had a plate with no outlet, 25344-99 cam plate. Later, about 2000 they realized that one plate could fit all and the case casting was changed, the boss was added, 25344-99A cam plate. The boss had a blind hole on the A motors and used the same 11301 oring in that spot as the B motors. Understand I am not saying the A and B cases are the same but the boss was added to the A case so one cam plate could fit all of them despite being a blind hole. If a late cam plate is used on one of the first early no boss cases the feed hole in the plate must be plugged. In the day HD made a service kit for this.
 

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My advice, fix your motor. Same as we do with all machines. Remove, inspect, repair and replace parts as needed, reassemble. A shop manual is needed and many of the special balancer tools can be either made or just are not needed. That would be my approach for the reasons I already stated earlier. Remanufactured motor from Harley another good option. Neither of these options will be cheap but they will be a proper fix. Assuming the crank is true and you replace the oil pump and cam plate plus sand the shaft to get the high spots off this is a "partial repair". It may or may not be a permanent fix. It is your bike, your call.
 
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