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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've gone back and read ,probably several hundred posts on this engine mod thread before asking this question. It always seems like in performance the first 1/2 of the max gain is "reasonable" from then on it get expensive. Do you guys think that's true?

I have an 04 FLHPI w/ ProPipe/Big sucker/Pwr Commander.. runs good but been trying to figure what i would need to do to bump that tq up to close to 90. How much gain would dropping in a 37g give me. or on the other hand i recall some sentiment that if i'm not planning on head work than the 26 might be a better choice.

What should I expect to pay to get a Andrews cam put in, I see they list for $260. Or is the feeling that it's just a waste and do it only with a 95 build. And if that's the case what's a ballpark on simple 95/ no headwork?

I have a buddy who put a 37 in his RK/ he said he paid $800 ...that seemed on the very high side since i believe it only took the guy 3hrs +/-. He did cut out the rods so that does add to the cost, what do you think about that price?
Thanks
 

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Average Dude
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What kind of riding do you do? Lots os highway, cracking 100 mph drag racing? Low/mid driving, one up, two up, mountainous, etc..

In a 95, the 26 is good if you don't need top end. Its a stump pulling cam. Great for two up on a bagger. The 37 may be better if you like to hot dog on the highway.
The price difference may also be between the chain drive replacement cam and a gear driven cam. The gear setup is going to cost more. But there are arguments on both sides of the fence as far as reliability chain v. gear. Most guys like to do the gear drive upgrade.

It seems that if you can limit your build to the top end, the pricetag stays reasonable. As soon as you get into the cases, thats when it starts getting expensive. You can get a pretty peppy 95, or even better, a 98" build for "short change". Especially if you do the build yourself.

Lots of opinions here and getting everyone to agree on one thing is difficult at best.

I'll now let others chime in....
 

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The $260 is what you'll pay for the 37G cams. You forgot to add in the price of the S&S 4 gear set...$350-$375
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Riding style is aggressive, occaisional runs up to top end,,,light to light foolishness:nono: . Looking to have some fun but get not $$$$ crazy. Also not looking for something that is reliable. What did you think about the cost i mentioned. that was with the chain, no gears?
 

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Average Dude
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tyler1300 said:
Riding style is aggressive, occaisional runs up to top end,,,light to light foolishness:nono: . Looking to have some fun but get $$$$ crazy. Also not looking for something that is reliable. What did you think about the cost i mentioned. that was with the chain, no gears?
I read you want to get dollar crazy and have the build not be reliable??? Is that correct?
 

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Incredible
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Whatever cam you go with I say once you tear the engine down you should go back with a gear driven cam. It does cost a bit more, but it does away with those wearable cam chain tensioners. If cost is everything and you don't mind keeping an eye on that known issue, then pick whatever cam fits your riding style and go for it.
 

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If you are just changing the cams, about 3 hours labor is right with those pipes. Certainlly nothing over that. Remember, you'll also need dyno time, another $2-300.
You can do BigBoyz heads, 37 chain cams and 95" with labor and dyno for about 1500. I know that sounds alot different than the $260 for just the cams but when you add the labor and the pushrods and the dyno, yer gonna be up around a grand anyhow for just cams. One ride on my bike and you'd be sold!! Especially for the way you ride, you would love this build!!! It's what I have and mine is lets just say, very sweet!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks, that's EXACTLY the info I wanted. For $1500 I would for sure go that route. That $800 friend spent was before dyno cost/no gears.

Your build/price/perfect!
thanks
 

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XLIII
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tyler1300 said:
Sorry, no gear set needed if using stock primary chain?? Right?
No, the 37G is a gear driven cam and needs the S&S 4 gear set for installation. Does away with cam chains, has nothing to do w/ primary.
 

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XLIII
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Sorry, when you said 37G in your original post, I thought you meant 37G.
My mistake, obviously.
I'll go away now.
 

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The gear driven cams are more than just doing away with tensioners that will eventually wear out causing little pieces of yellow plastic to drop into the oil and possibly get caught in some oil passage somewhere causing Big problems, they also won't sretch like the chains will causing problems with the timing.
It is generally accepted by those most knowledgeable about the twin cam that the chain driven cam is the weakest link on the entire engine if not bike.
Chains were installed because they are quieter (EPA) faster to install on the assembly line and cheaper. Do your self a big favour and have gear driven cams installed.
Think about the ride man, no nagging thoughts in the back of your mind wondering if today is the day the chaindrive gives out. It's never a good time for a problem like that to rear it's ugly head!
Don't think of it as two or three hundred, what ever the difference is. Look at the big picture, you bought a Harley Davidson, and your adding stuff to make it look and run the way you want it.
It's way to late to go home early now!
 

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GMR has 95" with gears for $1k. Have your heads ported by Big Boys $300. Buy or rent special tools $50-$200.

I don't think you need gear drive cam, but its nice. I got motor ripped apart now, don't want to go in again. I got a bagger and the pipes are pain to get off. Maybe could loose gfront heeder enough to get at bolts, without ripping apart.

Spring is almost here, so make up your mind.
 

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Administrator
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For informational purposes, Big boyz sells the Gear Cams (includes Andrews Cam, gear set and installation kit) for $530, if we do your heads. Other cams available and price vary based on cam manufacture.
 

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Not a bad deal.
 

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Lazy 98
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It's a can of worms...

$3500+ later, if you're gonna do the cam, you might as well go gears while you're in there. Then, you need headwork to maximize the benefit of the cam upgrade. Since you have the heads off, it's really no big deal to just slip in some new barrels and pistons. Jeez, its only a couple hundred more for the 98 inchers (over the 95's) but then you need more carb-- yikes! Add some supporting hardware, and tuneable ignition, and and and ... where were we again?
 

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Hellbound Train
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MWALTON said:
The gear driven cams are more than just doing away with tensioners that will eventually wear out causing little pieces of yellow plastic to drop into the oil and possibly get caught in some oil passage somewhere causing Big problems, :whatever: they also won't sretch like the chains will causing problems with the timing.:roflback:
It is generally accepted by those most knowledgeable about the twin cam that the chain driven cam is the weakest link on the entire engine if not bike.:whatever:
Chains were installed because they are quieter (EPA) faster to install on the assembly line and cheaper.:roflback: Do your self a big favour and have gear driven cams installed.
Think about the ride man, no nagging thoughts in the back of your mind wondering if today is the day the chaindrive gives out. ^rolleyez^ : It's never a good time for a problem like that to rear it's ugly head!:crying
Don't think of it as two or three hundred, what ever the difference is. Look at the big picture, you bought a Harley Davidson, and your adding stuff to make it look and run the way you want it.
It's way to late to go home early now!
:beatdh: ......
 

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But Chuck, you use Syn 3 in all holes, so everyone knows those things cannot happen in your motor.... You have to keep it apples to apples for a fair comparison... :corn:
 
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