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I have a 2001 RKCL and a buddy has a Power Commander II which he got for his (#801-110) for MM efi, and I'm debating whether to get it. I have no idea what value if any it has. I have the stage 1 d/l on my bike with K&N A/F and Samson slip-ons. I would like to be able to tweak it for better running and will later be adding different pipes and possibly some head work. Should I save my coins for the PCIII/usb or is the II worth playing with? About how much should it be worth?
Please note that I will not buy a SERT, ever, but might later try the DTT or similar.

Thanks

;!pstwhore
 

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Do they still make those?

I have a MM bike and I am sick of seeing "for 01 and newer" as far as piggie backs go for the ECM. It is like the MM bikes are the [email protected] children.

I have never had problem out of my system, but haviing an option is nice. Can you PM the part number for his so maybe I can find one "new"? Mine is a 99 TC.
 

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I have a 99 MM EFI with a PCIII USB that works great. Wouldn't leave home without it!! :yes: :yes:
 

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Well I am one of those "Bastard Children", and a "Problem Child" too.

My M&M Ultra never ran right. Maybe it was the techs who wrenched on it. Maybe it was me and bad karma, I don't know. My bike came new with the usual 95", .203 cams, SE intake, and download. Less than a year of owning it came the spark knock, wandering idle, spitting, coughing, and idle drop at altitude. In my long history of trying to get it to run right, I went through:

OEM download
PCII
1st generation TFI (The PCII failed)
2nd generation TFI
PCIIIr
ECM (replaced under warranty due to failure)
Terrys FI component O2 sensor gizmo
M&M SERT
Delphi conversion via the Thayer Sub-Harness
Zippers T-Max with auto-tune

In my experience don't get the Zippers without the Auto-Tune. Otherwise I found it to be equal to the Delphi. With Zippers Auto-Tune, I can finally say the bike runs as well as I always knew it was capable of running, actually, it runs better than I ever expected.

Now I know you are all thinking, just get a Delphi bike. Well, with all my mods, custom paint, chrome, engine work, bars, saddle, and so on, I finally had my bike just how I wanted it. Plus, how could I sell it when the test ride would reveal just how bad it ran?

Once again I apologize for being one of those folks who give the M&M a bad name. If I had my way, my bike would have run as well as yours does from the start.

Mark​
 

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Paniolo said:
Well I am one of those "Bastard Children", and a "Problem Child" too.

My M&M Ultra never ran right. Maybe it was the techs who wrenched on it. Maybe it was me and bad karma, I don't know. My bike came new with the usual 95", .203 cams, SE intake, and download. Less than a year of owning it came the spark knock, wandering idle, spitting, coughing, and idle drop at altitude. In my long history of trying to get it to run right, I went through:

OEM download
PCII
1st generation TFI (The PCII failed)
2nd generation TFI
PCIIIr
ECM (replaced under warranty due to failure)
Terrys FI component O2 sensor gizmo
M&M SERT
Delphi conversion via the Thayer Sub-Harness
Zippers T-Max with auto-tune

In my experience don't get the Zippers without the Auto-Tune. Otherwise I found it to be equal to the Delphi. With Zippers Auto-Tune, I can finally say the bike runs as well as I always knew it was capable of running, actually, it runs better than I ever expected.

Now I know you are all thinking, just get a Delphi bike. Well, with all my mods, custom paint, chrome, engine work, bars, saddle, and so on, I finally had my bike just how I wanted it. Plus, how could I sell it when the test ride would reveal just how bad it ran?

Once again I apologize for being one of those folks who give the M&M a bad name. If I had my way, my bike would have run as well as yours does from the start.

Mark​
Thanks for the info. I was just looking at the PCIII and was wondering how that works. I looked at the Auto tune system and it makes more sense for the closed loop oxygen sensors that cover all the band of running because it can adjust on the go. However, the one company I requested a copy of their dyno run for the MM that used to be posted online never sent me squat other than they had it posted online once. Duh why did they think I asked for a copy? Because the dyno is not on there anymore.

Anyway, sorry to hear you MM went south. On the surface sounds like the ECM was going to begin with since all the sensors were fighting each other causing the inconsistent running.
 

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R-RatedCustoms said:
On the surface sounds like the ECM was going to begin with since all the sensors were fighting each other causing the inconsistent running.
That's a good assessment of the problem, I wish the techs could have diagnosed it early on. I did not like having to pay for all that. But it's all behind me now, and I am loving my bike. So much so, I am considering more paint work and a Baker 6-speed.​
 

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dynos?

any of you with the big bore kits & cams using a PC III done a dyno run? Just would like to see a basic comparo between apples to apples carb vs MM efi. Still seriously considering shitcanning the MM system. Soon.
tim
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm having some minor tuning related issues with mine but nothing severe or worthy of a retrofit. My bike actually runs very well, but does has some decell popping and the occassional hunting for idle speed. I would like to get one device or another for tweaking the system but the PCII (which is no longer made) was offered up recently but no price mentioned yet. It looks like the current PCIII-usb is the way to go, but its also $350. I'm just trying to find out if the old PCII has any merit....and what it might be worth.
Or is it just a waste of time?
 

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1bdBagr said:
any of you with the big bore kits & cams using a PC III done a dyno run? Just would like to see a basic comparo between apples to apples carb vs MM efi. Still seriously considering shitcanning the MM system. Soon.
tim
Back when my engine was built with OEM heads, SE .203 cam. .030 head gaskets, SE air filter, SE mufflers, and PC, it dynoed at 82HP, and 90TQ. That was still with the OEM M&M dual runner TB.

That "Hunting for idle" was a constant problem for me. Drove me nuts alternating between a high of 1,700 rpms, to a shaking almost stalling low of 600 rpms. I couldn't live with that. It got worse at altitude. If you are happy with your current build and the way it runs, leave it be. However, if you plan more performance mods, and like to try different stuff like exhaust and cams, then consider the Zippers with Auto-Tune kit. You will get a Zippers single throat TB that with some simple modifications, mates up to your dual line M&M fuel tank. You also get a Zippers ECM that swaps out for the M&M one. It is a pretty nice set up. But like I said, don't get the Zippers unless you plan on spending the extra money for the Auto-Tune. I know it's expensive, but with the auto-tune you can change build displacement, go stroker, swap cams, change pipes, and all you need to do is load another MAP, and let it tune itself.

Good Luck​
 

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PClll's are on clearout for $269 alot of places,just bought one,PCll's aren't nearly as adjustable,lll's are supposed to work smoother (faster processor?), ran out of adjustment with my PCll....

My erratic idle seemed to be inconsisant closing/seating of the butterflies,possibly comounded by shaft wear....I just opened the butterflies a bit so they weren't binding,then closed the idle bypass screws to correct speed...

Huge low end power/response gains can be made by grinding a boost hole between the runners or removing the whole divider....was good enough for Harley from 2001 on,right....be prepared to add fuel-you just doubled the amount of air available and keeping a vacuum signal at both butterflies all the time should increase flow anyway....there are some posts on Harley tech talk about it...
 

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Save your money and just do a carb conversion, cost about the same, maybe slightly more $ than the PC and you loose all the aggrivation.
Best move I ever made on my 01 MM bike when I had it...
 

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I Disagree !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

adlerx said:
Save your money and just do a carb conversion, cost about the same, maybe slightly more $ than the PC and you loose all the aggrivation.
Best move I ever made on my 01 MM bike when I had it...

While a M M system is old school now...my 2001 ULTRA runs great 95 HP 104 TQ all with 102,032 miles on the clock...:whistle: not to bad for a mild 95 inch road bike...
As a DYNO owner I have used and sell the PC USB for the MM they work well.....when the SERT got popular I got one for my bike so I could learn the SERT...after 50 plus hours I have gotten good at the SERT...I find them both good products...
All you nead :whisper: is a GOOD Dyno Man to set it up...
Good Luck
Steve The Dyno Man :cheers:
 

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Steve Handy said:
All you nead :whisper: is a GOOD Dyno Man to set it up...
Good Luck
Steve The Dyno Man :cheers:
@gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree: @gree:
Have Steve do yours. I drove 300mi and spent the night in a motel. It was worth it. He also isn't scared of CARB, since he isn't in Ca.

Note: With Steve you get the corrected value, the real deal. He won't try to stroke you and tell you that your bike is AWESOME!, he tells the truth after a through tune. My bike was just short of 90/95, but I have run faster than some who claimed 100/100. I think that they got stroked.
 
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