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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just a little help,I would like to know how hard it is to remove the plastic covers around the gages and the headlight shell so I can have them painted to match airbox cover and fenders.I know radiator shrouds are one bolt each. All help is really apreciated.




Thanks, Waterhead
 

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Its easy Waterhead! The two allans on the side if the headlight and you can remove the shell [ twist the bulb sockets to remove bulbs ] Two more Phillips screws from the back and that baby's apart!
The Instrument housing has two allans you have to remove from the bottom and now you can pull the top and the chrome bezal off. Two allans in the middle are removed and the bottom comes off.
Good Luck! Steve
 

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I don't understand all the painting, I have been doing a little playing and think that polishing the aluminum might be just the trick. Here is a half done front fender.
 

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The flash makes it hard to tell how good the fenders polish, this picture has a checker print at the bottom that gives a good idea how bright the polish is. Compare it to the top that is still anodized.
 

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Did you rub off the anadize stuff or remove it chemicaly? I saw a product some where here in this forum to remove it chemicaly. Shine looks awesome!
 

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russbo, I expect the stripper to arrive any day now, I have been playing with my original fender (I have a sport fender on now) to see what works best. The reason the back of the fender is untouched is so I can test the anodizer stripper that I ordered. The front was all hand sanded, I started with 150 to cut the anodized coating off then worked my way to 600. After the sanding is complete it only takes a few minutes with some tripoli polish and a buffer wheel to get the shine.
 

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Aluminum finish concerns...

In addition to its high strength-to-weight characteristics, one of the most commonly cited reasons for the use of aluminum in aircraft and automotive design is its resistance to corrosion.

When exposed to the air, bare aluminum quickly develops of thin skin of oxidized material, essentially limiting further corrosion of the metal. However, this oxidization has a distinctive greyish color and is fairly rough, which further attracts dirt and other contaminants, resulting in a dingy appearance. This is the cause of the "tired" look you see on many old motorcycle engines, etc.

Removing the anodized coating on the V-Rod bodywork, and then finely polishing the underlying metal WILL result in an extremely shiny, mirrorlike finish. However, such a finish will quickly be lost if adequate steps are not taken to protect the metal from oxygen in the air. Usually aluminum needs a protective coating, such as a lacquer finish, to maintain a high-gloss finish. I would recommend having such metal polishing and finishing done at a professional facility, where they have access to proper equipment and materials, rather than try to do the work yourself, unless you are experienced with with aluminum refinishing.
 

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VRodDrew

I have a little experience in alloys and working with alloys. Alcoha makes a sealer that is like wd-40 that protects for up to 9 months with a single application. Keep in mind that the wheels on the v-rod are bare aluminum with no sealer of any kind on them. And even though they tend to spot are easy to maintain. I had thought about chrome plating the pieces but my fear is the chrome will crack easy since the aluminum is so flexable.
 

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V-RºD said:
I have a little experience in alloys and working with alloys. Alcoha makes a sealer that is like wd-40 that protects for up to 9 months with a single application.
As I said - if you are experienced and have access to special chemicals to preserve the finish - great - but neither of these facts were made clear in the original post.
 

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O.K. Gentlemen...............what products do you guys recommend for protecting the wheels, frame, etc. .......other than Harley products?
 

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